garrymartin
My Family,Railways, Beer and the Seaside
She's going to be a beauty 
ex Davington 0-6-0ST build progress
- Thread starter ge_rik
- Start date
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
First visit to the paint shops - now in `workshop grey` - well actually Halford`s primer.
A few more details added since the previous post - and also couplings - which always take longer to sort out than I expect. The rear coupling has been removed for painting as it is fixed to the body - but the front coupling is fixed to the chassis which is removed for painting. Keeping the masking on the cab (and temporarily fixed the roof) until the final top coat is done.
As can be seen, there`s still a bit more filling and smoothing down to be done. Really disappointed with Revel filler which is basically carp!! It does not adhere properly (as can be seen on the smokebox) and cracks. It was all I could get when I was in France but now wish I hadn`t bothered. I`m now using White Putty which seems a lot better - much better adhesion and takes to rubbing down without flaking.
Waiting for 24 hours for the primer to harden and then comes the final filling (hopefully) and rubbing-down. I make my own emery boards (ie wrap a piece of fine emery around a coffee stirrer) to get into the nooks and crannies. I find this the fiddliest job but at this point I`m motivated as the end is in sight. Once the top coats have been applied, then I can add the finer details such as handrails and pipework.
Rik
BTW - Waited in vain for a smokebox door casting to arrive from GRS (ordered in June). So hunted around for something domed I could use. Picked up a set of four castors in my local pound shop which were exactly the right diameter and appropriately dome-shaped. Cut back, filed down and a couple of plasticard hinges and bob`s your dad`s brother!
A few more details added since the previous post - and also couplings - which always take longer to sort out than I expect. The rear coupling has been removed for painting as it is fixed to the body - but the front coupling is fixed to the chassis which is removed for painting. Keeping the masking on the cab (and temporarily fixed the roof) until the final top coat is done.
As can be seen, there`s still a bit more filling and smoothing down to be done. Really disappointed with Revel filler which is basically carp!! It does not adhere properly (as can be seen on the smokebox) and cracks. It was all I could get when I was in France but now wish I hadn`t bothered. I`m now using White Putty which seems a lot better - much better adhesion and takes to rubbing down without flaking.
Waiting for 24 hours for the primer to harden and then comes the final filling (hopefully) and rubbing-down. I make my own emery boards (ie wrap a piece of fine emery around a coffee stirrer) to get into the nooks and crannies. I find this the fiddliest job but at this point I`m motivated as the end is in sight. Once the top coats have been applied, then I can add the finer details such as handrails and pipework.
Rik
BTW - Waited in vain for a smokebox door casting to arrive from GRS (ordered in June). So hunted around for something domed I could use. Picked up a set of four castors in my local pound shop which were exactly the right diameter and appropriately dome-shaped. Cut back, filed down and a couple of plasticard hinges and bob`s your dad`s brother!
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
Looking good Rik.
Nice details around the top of the boiler and smokebox.
I've never used any of those fillers. For small 'fills' I use superglue mixed with talc powder. For larger ones, epoxy putty (maybe that's what you call white putty?)
I've also used Scotchbrite pads for final rubbing back, but need to be careful you don't get 'strings' caught.
BTW I like your piece of track for poses.
Nice details around the top of the boiler and smokebox.
I've never used any of those fillers. For small 'fills' I use superglue mixed with talc powder. For larger ones, epoxy putty (maybe that's what you call white putty?)
I've also used Scotchbrite pads for final rubbing back, but need to be careful you don't get 'strings' caught.
BTW I like your piece of track for poses.
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Thanks Greggregh said:
Do you put the talc on dry and then flood it with superglue? One of the things I find really fiddly is getting the putty into the crevices. Sometimes I think it's there and when I start rubbing down it falls out - so have to fill again. Not thought of Scotchbright. I'll give it a try.
Used to use a stretch of track just outside the workshop - but the Great British Weather isn't always obliging so created an indoor version.gregh said:
Rik
gregh
electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
I put a 'pile' of talc powder on a piece if board and add a couple of drops of glue and mix, then appyl, with toothpick say. It's amazing how much powder it takes. It seems to really soak up the glue and have very little 'body'. So make it a big pile of powder! Say 1cm dia and as high as it will pile.ge_rik said:
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Hi Greg
This is the stuff I use - interestingly says it`s good for just about everything but trains - oh well!
I do occasionally use the two-part epoxy filler but that usually for big fills or when I want to sculpt or model something - eg the oil fillers on my Sharpie and also when I want to add hats to figures to bring them more into keeping with the 1930s era or when I want to re-pose them.
Rik
This is the stuff I use - interestingly says it`s good for just about everything but trains - oh well!
I do occasionally use the two-part epoxy filler but that usually for big fills or when I want to sculpt or model something - eg the oil fillers on my Sharpie and also when I want to add hats to figures to bring them more into keeping with the 1930s era or when I want to re-pose them.
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Thanks Paul. Yes, the looks were what attracted me to the loco in the first place - that and its relative obscurity - and how its history fitted into the imagined history of my own railway. Mind you, I'll think twice about modelling a saddle tank in future - side tank locos are a lot easier to model and they provide more and more accessible internal space to install batteries etc.owlpool said:
Just spent most of the day doing little else but filling, filing and sanding - so many nooks, crannies and crevices which need fine tuning. Perhaps if I was a more precise bodgeller I wouldn't need to indulge in so much remedial work - but then it's all part of life's rich pageant ...... :
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Just emerged from the paint-shop so still in need of more detailing. Reversing rod and brass pipework will be added next.
The front sandboxes are made, but still in the paint-shop.
Cab handrails. a driver and coal for the bunker are also on the agenda as are chopper couplings and chains.
These fiddly bits are very satisfying but take quite a while to fashion and instal.
Rik
The front sandboxes are made, but still in the paint-shop.
Cab handrails. a driver and coal for the bunker are also on the agenda as are chopper couplings and chains.
These fiddly bits are very satisfying but take quite a while to fashion and instal.
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
You`ll see from my thread in the video section that she is now out of the paintshop and has entered service.
I`ve made a start on adding the pipework as you can see from the photo. This is the Mk3 version. It`s quite fiddly - plumbing is not one of my favourite occupations!
The reason it`s taken so long to reach this stage since the last update is because I had a minor disaster after she emerged from the paintshop. I decided to add some lead weight before connecting up the electrics. In the past I have fixed the weights in with clear Bostik, with no problem. This time I decided to use Evostik. They do say you learn from your mistakes don`t they!!! :`(
The Evostik holding the strips of lead flashing inside the top of the saddle tank wasn`t too bad......
....... but is was a big mistake to pour airgun pellets into the smokebox and then flood it with Evostik!!!
So, around a week`s worth of filling and sanding followed ......
There was no way I could fill and sand under the boiler and so some brass shim was used to smooth out the measles....
From now on Evostik is staying well away from any future builds............
Rik
I`ve made a start on adding the pipework as you can see from the photo. This is the Mk3 version. It`s quite fiddly - plumbing is not one of my favourite occupations!
The reason it`s taken so long to reach this stage since the last update is because I had a minor disaster after she emerged from the paintshop. I decided to add some lead weight before connecting up the electrics. In the past I have fixed the weights in with clear Bostik, with no problem. This time I decided to use Evostik. They do say you learn from your mistakes don`t they!!! :`(
The Evostik holding the strips of lead flashing inside the top of the saddle tank wasn`t too bad......
....... but is was a big mistake to pour airgun pellets into the smokebox and then flood it with Evostik!!!
So, around a week`s worth of filling and sanding followed ......
There was no way I could fill and sand under the boiler and so some brass shim was used to smooth out the measles....
From now on Evostik is staying well away from any future builds............
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
[quote author=trammayo link=topic=299140.msg328157#msg328157 date=1411535581]
I have followed this thread from the beginning and enjoyed it. I bet you were well miffed with the effects of the glue and all the work it has caused.
[/quote]
Yes, Mick, you could say that. Oddly enough, though, on this occasion, I was quite philosophical about it. I suppose, because my modelling is 90% bodging, this almost felt inevitable. It was a bit frustrating that I couldn`t get on with the finer detailing, but I slept on it and then just got on with remediating the damage. It was overnight I thought of repairing the boiler with a sheet of brass rather than 0.5mm plasticard. A comment by Greg H on how difficult it is to get a smooth finish with thin plasticard made me think again. I also sorted out a slight dip in the edge of the tank, which had been annoying me, while I`d got the filler out.
Maybe I`m mellowing in my dotage.
Rik
I have followed this thread from the beginning and enjoyed it. I bet you were well miffed with the effects of the glue and all the work it has caused.
[/quote]
Yes, Mick, you could say that. Oddly enough, though, on this occasion, I was quite philosophical about it. I suppose, because my modelling is 90% bodging, this almost felt inevitable. It was a bit frustrating that I couldn`t get on with the finer detailing, but I slept on it and then just got on with remediating the damage. It was overnight I thought of repairing the boiler with a sheet of brass rather than 0.5mm plasticard. A comment by Greg H on how difficult it is to get a smooth finish with thin plasticard made me think again. I also sorted out a slight dip in the edge of the tank, which had been annoying me, while I`d got the filler out.
Maybe I`m mellowing in my dotage.
Rik
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
I think that`s it! Maybe a little more tidying on the paintwork here and there - and of course she needs a driver - but she now has all her pipework, handrails, reversing lever, etc.
She`s a reasonable representation of the original and, of course, I have included some imperfections to show I am only human 
I`m very pleased with the way she runs. I`m not sure if it`s down to the Piko mechanism or the Deltang Rx65, but she doesn`t run away down hills or struggle up them. Just seems a good tempered, steady and controllable addition to the fleet. Here`s a link to the video of her in action which I posted earlier in the Videos section
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohBz-yeo8WU
If you want a more step-by-step account of the build then see my blog posting - http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2014/09/how-i-constructed-manning-wardle-0-6-0.html
What next? I`ve already started work in bashing some Bachmann Jackson Sharp coaches into something vaguely resembling those on the Leek and Manifold Railway.
Rik
She`s a reasonable representation of the original and, of course, I have included some imperfections to show I am only human
I`m very pleased with the way she runs. I`m not sure if it`s down to the Piko mechanism or the Deltang Rx65, but she doesn`t run away down hills or struggle up them. Just seems a good tempered, steady and controllable addition to the fleet. Here`s a link to the video of her in action which I posted earlier in the Videos section
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohBz-yeo8WU
If you want a more step-by-step account of the build then see my blog posting - http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2014/09/how-i-constructed-manning-wardle-0-6-0.html
What next? I`ve already started work in bashing some Bachmann Jackson Sharp coaches into something vaguely resembling those on the Leek and Manifold Railway.
Rik
railwayman198
Registered
A very handsome loco