ex Davington 0-6-0ST build progress

gregh said:
It's a 'wee ripper'.
Isn't it great when after all your work and angst, the thing looks good and works too!
Quite so, Greg. And this one has been a lot more angst-ridden than any of its predecessors. I don't think I'll rush to do another saddle tank loco - too many curves and really tight space inside. And I'm definitely not letting Evostik anywhere near a Plasticard model. I noticed another couple of swellings on the back of the bunker a couple of days ago (where I'd glued in some weights). I'm sure they weren't there a week ago. I think this stuff remains active for weeks!! Just hoping I don't wake up one morning and find a large blob of plastic sitting on top of a Piko motor block where the loco once was.

Oh well, they do say you never learn anything if you never actually do anything or as Oscar Wilde put it - "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes." Mind you, I think he also said as he passed through customs "I have nothing to declare except my genius". I don't think I'll go that far.

Rik
 
She's a lovely loco, and fits in with your line perfectly. A lesson learned for us all too with the Evostik / plasticard combination :o
 
Thanks chaps, very kind of you. I do envy those people who can make models flawlessly. I was looking at the most recent edition of Model Railway Journal in WH Smiths and there's an article from a guy in there whose modelled a 7mm Castle loco and his level of detail is astounding. I tend to go for the "ten foot rule with eyes half closed" look.

Rik
 
A real beauty, Rik, and how splendid to have a really unique model. Very interesting to see how you went about making it from scratch and it is very helpful when you have been candid about things you needed to re-do!

Does the Piko chassis run well? I ask because one day I might have a go at reproducing a Hunslet lookalike to match the 1:1 restoration of FESA locomotive No.1, which has just been rescued from the municipal park in Tortosa and which I was privileged to see last week in a private visit to the workshops of the Amics Del Carrilet Del Delta De L'Ebre {http://www.carriletdelta.com}. This was actually 4-4-0T but I think using a 3-axle chassis would be more reliable and I am most certainly not a purist - I prefer things to work!
FESANo1.jpg

Thankfully it will be at least 3 years before the real thing is running again and so I have a bit of time to develop my own loco-building skills before then!
 
viaEstrecha said:
Does the Piko chassis run well? I ask because one day I might have a go at reproducing a Hunslet lookalike to match the 1:1 restoration of FESA locomotive No.1, which has just been rescued from the municipal park in Tortosa and which I was privileged to see last week in a private visit to the workshops of the Amics Del Carrilet Del Delta De L'Ebre. This was actually 4-4-0T but I think using a 3-axle chassis would be more reliable and I am most certainly not a purist - I prefer things to work!
Thankfully it will be at least 3 years before the real thing is running again and so I have a bit of time to develop my own loco-building skills before then!
Thanks for that. I cannot speak too highly of the Piko chassis - she's a real beaut! The axles are mounted in roller bearings and as it's virtually a split chassis, track pick-up is really neatly done (not that I'm using track power). She runs really smoothly and I've not noticed any appreciable slowing when tackling gradients or run-away when she descends. My only criticism would be the crank-pins and connecting rods which seem over-engineered. But there are ways round that if you want to model something a bit more realistic.

Rik

BTW - what a great looking prototype - and that street scene looks really attractive. Reminiscent of some of the Irish 3' railways.
 
Just been reading your Blog about constructing the model - better then Blue Peter as a step by step guide and I think it will be absolutely ideal to give me the confidence to try one myself, once the next few projects are completed!

BTW - what a great looking prototype - and that street scene looks really attractive. Reminiscent of some of the Irish 3' railways.
This was a sweet metre-gauge line which was opened in 1927, mainly to take produce and rice from the Ebre Delta into Tortosa. It lasted only 40 years but there is a small but very determined group of enthusiasts who are recreating about 4km along the original trackbed at the 'country' end and they have already tracked down and restored some of the original kit, with a view to having something running in 2015. This is a very novel enterprise for Spain and even obtaining the equivalent of a Light Railway Order requires new legislation but I'm sure they will succeed.
 
viaEstrecha said:
Just been reading your Blog about constructing the model - better then Blue Peter as a step by step guide and I think it will be absolutely ideal to give me the confidence to try one myself, once the next few projects are completed!
Well, given the quality of your model buildings, I'd say you'll have no problem modelling a loco. Very similar principles, basically.

Rik
 
viaEstrecha said:
Does the Piko chassis run well? I ask because one day I might have a go at reproducing a Hunslet lookalike to
I'll agree with Rik. I have two of the Piko 0-6-0 chassis and they do run well.
My initial impression when I put it on the track 'bare' was it had no pulling power. But once it had some weight, it's really good.

The only problem I found was that both of mine had only 2 screws holding the top on when there should be 4. That allowed the gears to unmesh. I took the plate off and added a bit of cardboard to provide more force onto the motor and put in 4 screws

At least it's easy to pull apart. I took the wheel pickups and skates off. The two outer axles are driven, and the centre axle wheels are flanged but have about 5mm side play. Connecting rods not supplied.
 
[quote author=gregh link=topic=299140.msg328614#msg328614 date=1411961439]
I`ll agree with Rik. I have two of the Piko  0-6-0 chassis and they do run well. 
My initial impression when I put it on the track `bare` was it had no pulling power.  But once it had some weight, it`s really good.

The only problem I found was that both of mine had only 2 screws holding the top on when there should be 4.  That allowed the gears to unmesh.  I took the plate off and added a bit of cardboard to provide more force onto the motor and put in 4 screws

At least it`s easy to pull apart.  I took the wheel pickups and skates off.  The two outer axles are driven, and the centre axle wheels are flanged but have about 5mm side play.  Connecting rods not supplied.
[/quote]
I think they must have changed the design by the time I bought mine. There are now six screws holding the baseplate in place.
1-IMG_6876.JPG

I was a bit concerned about the flanged centre wheels as I`ve still got some R1 curves and points, but she seems to take those without too much effort - though she does slow down a bit negotiating them.


I has occurred to me (overnight) that there are plenty of 0-4-0 motor blocks about, if you fancied recreating a 2-4-2. My previous loco build was of a Southwold 2-4-2. Mind you, I used a Playmobil motor block and, although the wheel sizes were about right, the block isn`t as controllable at slow speeds as the Piko block.
http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/how-i-constructed-southwold-railway.html

Rik
 
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