Hi all I’m a complete noob here!

Hi Dan,
It's always useful to post a photo of the underside of a loco when asking questions about it.
The model number and stickers give a lot of info, this is particularly useful with models that have been in production for a while.
Underneath there should be a gold sticker. This will tell you the age of the loco.

2nd & 3rd number = day

4th & 5th = month

1st & 6th = year.

Example: 014054 is 14th may 2004

There may be another sticker or marking too.

The marking (1) and stickers (2-5) displayed below are usually found of the bottom of LGB® locomotives that were manufactured before 2006; they are used to indicate the DCC (MTS) status of a locomotive.

Locomotives manufactured after 2006 do not usually bear stickers indicating their DCC (MTS) status; the information may be available in the user's manual or on LGB's website.

An LGB® locomotive with an engraved "D" on the bottom side of the gearbox is suitable for DCC (MTS); the "D" marking indicates that the gearbox is a 4-pin gearbox with a motor that is electrically isolated from the track. A gearbox Without the "D" marking may have to be converted to a 4-lead gearbox to become suitable for DCC (MTS).

An LGB® locomotive without one of the 4 stickers "2-5" is either manufactured after 2006, or missing its sticker, or pre-DCC (MTS). The locomotive may require disassembly to determine its DCC(MTS) status; pre-DCC locomotives should have their basic electronics removed for conversion to DCC.

Sticker "2" indicates that an LGB® locomotive is DCC ready and equipped with a 6-pole decoder interface. An interface cable (Massoth 6-pin Interface cable, item # 8312061) is required to connect a decoder to the locomotive's PCB board. The 6-pin decoder interface is plug-and-play compatible with the LGB® 55021 decoder, the Massoth eMOTION L decoder, the Massoth eMOTION XL decoder, and the Massoth eMOTION XLS sound decoder.

Sticker "3" indicates that an LGB® locomotive is DCC ready and equipped with a 10-pin direct decoder interface plug-and-play compatible with the LGB® 55021 decoder, the Massoth eMOTION L decoder, the Massoth eMOTION XL decoder, and the Massoth eMOTION XLS sound decoder.

Sticker "4" indicates that an LGB® locomotive is DCC ready and equipped with an onboard-decoder that is suitable for both digital and analog operation. The Massoth S sound module is perfectly suitable for adding sound to LGB® locomotives equipped with an onboard-decoder.

Sticker "5" indicates that an LGB® locomotive is DCC ready and equipped with the new 10-pin DCC interface plug-and-play compatible with the LGB® 55027 MTSIII decoder, the Massoth eMOTION XL decoder, and the Massoth eMOTION XLS sound decoder.

In 2014 LGB introduced a new 28-pin decoder interface which they represented in their literature by symbol "6". The interface, sometimes referred to as the LGB/Märklin Gauge 1 interface, is plug-and-play
1577658383983.png
Regards,
Paul.
 
for the smoke systems, it's important you know the capacity of the reservoir, then you only fill when it runs out, and use a syringe to get the right cc of fluid in it.

The less expensive heater systems smoke ok, but the fan driven systems do better, and the ones that have the heater controlled by electronics (a separate decoder or from the main decoder) do very well.

They are not as problematic as many would have you believe, as long as you understand how they work and their capacities before using them.


Greg
 
Rhinochugger said:
Oh no, more stainz on the carpet :tmi::tmi::tmi:
Click to expand...

Seriously!
If you have one of these modern 'pale, single-colour' carpets.. Be aware that carbon from the plungers, oxidised brass track, odd dried-up grease / oil, WILL leave a faint trace where a track has been for any length of time.

In the interest's of domestic harmony (and for future 'permissions') it might be an idea to put something down for the track to run-on, if SW/you are very house-proud. :worried::think:
 
Smoke is like sound to me. It has to be really good or forget about it. Not too sure about the haze it would create inside though.
That's what it is like here in Australia at the moment with the bush fires. Up in the muggy 40's with smoke haze everywhere and it stinks. Smoke blowing all the way to New Zealand.
The video below has always impressed me.

 
There is no doubting that those 2 x 50’s are making a great show, but they are using some sort of pulsed generator with additional pipes leading to the draincocks and I believe under the cab as well. Quite a job for even a big loco. One wonders how long that sort of show can be sustained for, not too long I would think.

Returning to Dan and his project, by the sound of things I think he should be seriously looking at Peco Track, nice wide curves possible, points have a good radius as well. Only limitation is the lack of complex pointwork such as slips, xovers and 3 ways etc. But these in LgB are of small radius and in other makes horibky expensive.
 
dunnyrail. Yeah, it is a total custom build going by the specs at the end. All in 1/32 too.
One thing that I don't think has been mentioned is that Peco G45 track is available in 36" flex. It is a shame they don't make a Y and X. I really like the look of it.
How do you find Peco nickel silver track as far as electrical conductivity via wheels and pick-ups goes and oxidization/cleaning issues compared to LGB brass? I have some here but never tested outside. :think:
 
Daniel Collett said:
...On another note. Has anybody considered e-cig oils. They can produce good smoke with relatively low currents/voltages and are generally harmless once burned compared to refined oils??? Just a thought.
...Dan
Click to expand...
I don't see that anyone has responded to this: e-cigg "oils" are not oil, they're a blend of vegetable glycerin and propylene glycol and I doubt they'd work well in a loco smoker. I have seen the e-cigg components used to make a smoke setup for buildings.
 
Daniel,
IF you have a smoke unit, you will probably find you need to run the loco 'fast' to get enough voltage to get enough heat to make smoke..

I would run the loco for a minute or two, at a fast-speed, then grasp the funnel.. If it feels warm, then you have a working smoker..
Just as a test, you could use 2-3 drops of 'Baby Oil'. - I have heard of people using this regularly, but it does not totally vapourise, and will build up a burnt 'gunge' in the unit eventually.

Either LGB, or Massoth, 'Smoke-Fluid' (other of the manufacturer's have offerings as well) is a much better option..
Use sparingly (several drop's from a small pipette is all you need) else you will swamp the smoke unit. - It will not get hot enough to vapourise the fluid if you 'fill it up'.
The fluids mentioned can also be used (sparingly) to lubricate motion-parts etc. and a few drops on a paint-brush can be used to 'clean' a loco and give a slight sheen to the bodywork. - Did I mention 'less is more'?


As with all these substances:
They are mixes of assorted Hydro-carbons, and breathing them in, in a vapourised-form, is probably not that good for us long-term?

Oh! I was also given some smoke-fluid by some RC Flyers.. They use it for smoke effects on their planes.
This is VERY effective at making smoke in our units. - Think how fast their planes are travelling, and the effect they want! :eek:
However, having used this once, inside.. The dense smoke hangs about for ages, is a little unpleasant, and I am convinced would kill you if used regularly! :eek:o_O:sick::shake::shake::shake:

I have diluted it with 'ordinary' fluid, and used it outside, where it can disperse easily. - Great on a big diesel, with a fan-driven smoker..

PhilP.
 
Paul2727 said:
"Looking down the funnel it looks like a smoke gen, but not sure. There is a three position switch at the fire door in cab. It’s also missing it’s driver which I would like to replace.
so any help with instructions on what to buy (track, starter kits, spares, transformer, etc) and pdf manual would be massively appreciated.
Dan."


Hi Dan,
Try these links:

[/URL]

The 22212 is the same as the 20212's that were sold as part of a starter set.
Your smoke unit will be 16 -22 V. So will not work properly at 12v. There is a low voltage replacement smoke unit that has a circuit board to allow it to be used but with the advantage of smoking at a lower voltage.
I have several of these locos as well as some of the older type with the smoke unit built into the funnel.
Chances are that you loco has been apart at some time if the driver figure is missing. (Their arm hangs out of the cab. making it a bit of a pig to get the cab off. ) You may find that there is still a pair of boots glued to the cab floor. (The glue was apparently flexible when new, but hardened over time resulting in the figure breaking off at the ankles at maintenance time.
If you want one , message me and I'll sent you one gratis.
Regards,
Paul.
( Somewhere in Derbyshire.)
Click to expand...
Thank you sooo much Paul. Yep a pair of glued feet still exist in the
Paul2727 said:
"Looking down the funnel it looks like a smoke gen, but not sure. There is a three position switch at the fire door in cab. It’s also missing it’s driver which I would like to replace.
so any help with instructions on what to buy (track, starter kits, spares, transformer, etc) and pdf manual would be massively appreciated.
Dan."


Hi Dan,
Try these links:

[/URL]

The 22212 is the same as the 20212's that were sold as part of a starter set.
Your smoke unit will be 16 -22 V. So will not work properly at 12v. There is a low voltage replacement smoke unit that has a circuit board to allow it to be used but with the advantage of smoking at a lower voltage.
I have several of these locos as well as some of the older type with the smoke unit built into the funnel.
Chances are that you loco has been apart at some time if the driver figure is missing. (Their arm hangs out of the cab. making it a bit of a pig to get the cab off. ) You may find that there is still a pair of boots glued to the cab floor. (The glue was apparently flexible when new, but hardened over time resulting in the figure breaking off at the ankles at maintenance time.
If you want one , message me and I'll sent you one gratis.
Regards,
Paul.
( Somewhere in Derbyshire.)
Click to expand...
hi Paul. Yep exactly that, a pair of boots still remain in the cab. I took off the grill on top of funnel (see pic) I couldn’t pull um the smoke unit though. Yes I would very much like to replace the driver thank you. I’m still at a miss with an appropriate transformer. The link to the manual was perfect.
thanks again
Dan.
 

Attachments

  • 48F2D046-89C1-4D16-97D5-A3EF4A9E689B.jpeg
    48F2D046-89C1-4D16-97D5-A3EF4A9E689B.jpeg
    236.2 KB · Views: 0
  • B1C3E05D-7C11-497C-8B3F-B255C525AA1C.jpeg
    B1C3E05D-7C11-497C-8B3F-B255C525AA1C.jpeg
    201.5 KB · Views: 0
SophieB said:
I don't see that anyone has responded to this: e-cigg "oils" are not oil, they're a blend of vegetable glycerin and propylene glycol and I doubt they'd work well in a loco smoker. I have seen the e-cigg components used to make a smoke setup for buildings.
Click to expand...
Might be something to have a play with at some point if my standard smoke unit doesn’t work. Time will tell.
 
PhilP said:
Daniel,
IF you have a smoke unit, you will probably find you need to run the loco 'fast' to get enough voltage to get enough heat to make smoke..

I would run the loco for a minute or two, at a fast-speed, then grasp the funnel.. If it feels warm, then you have a working smoker..
Just as a test, you could use 2-3 drops of 'Baby Oil'. - I have heard of people using this regularly, but it does not totally vapourise, and will build up a burnt 'gunge' in the unit eventually.

Either LGB, or Massoth, 'Smoke-Fluid' (other of the manufacturer's have offerings as well) is a much better option..
Use sparingly (several drop's from a small pipette is all you need) else you will swamp the smoke unit. - It will not get hot enough to vapourise the fluid if you 'fill it up'.
The fluids mentioned can also be used (sparingly) to lubricate motion-parts etc. and a few drops on a paint-brush can be used to 'clean' a loco and give a slight sheen to the bodywork. - Did I mention 'less is more'?


As with all these substances:
They are mixes of assorted Hydro-carbons, and breathing them in, in a vapourised-form, is probably not that good for us long-term?

Oh! I was also given some smoke-fluid by some RC Flyers.. They use it for smoke effects on their planes.
This is VERY effective at making smoke in our units. - Think how fast their planes are travelling, and the effect they want! :eek:
However, having used this once, inside.. The dense smoke hangs about for ages, is a little unpleasant, and I am convinced would kill you if used regularly! :eek:o_O:sick::shake::shake::shake:

I have diluted it with 'ordinary' fluid, and used it outside, where it can disperse easily. - Great on a big diesel, with a fan-driven smoker..

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Perfect thanks for that, sounds like a good test to me.
 
Daniel Collett said:
I’m ashamed to say that I just re read this and actually get the joke now!
Click to expand...

I am afraid the humour may not improve! :rolleyes:

There is definitely a smoke unit down that hole! :nerd::nod:


One other thing to remember, with smoke-units / smoke-oil.. - And a reason 'less-is-more'..

If it has not all been used, it is then sitting in the loco.. Just waiting to catch someone-out, when they turn the loco over! :eek:
Full circle - back to Stainz on the carpet! :giggle::giggle:

(I did warn you about the humour!)
Happy New Year!
PhilP.
 
Daniel Collett said:
Thank you sooo much Paul. Yep a pair of glued feet still exist in the

hi Paul. Yep exactly that, a pair of boots still remain in the cab. I took off the grill on top of funnel (see pic) I couldn’t pull um the smoke unit though. Yes I would very much like to replace the driver thank you. I’m still at a miss with an appropriate transformer. The link to the manual was perfect.
thanks again
Dan.
Click to expand...

The boots and base will be nigh on impossible to remove with the cab in place, so best to wait until you feel confident to strip her down.
There will be plenty of advice on the forum to find out how to do that properly.
The smoke unit is a tight fit and probably held in place with a build up of old oil. no need to remove it until you know if it works or not.
If you do, it's easier to tap it out with a drift from underneath.
Position 3 on the switch is lights and smoke. (Far right. with the loco upright.)
Regards,
Paul.
 
Paradise said:
dunnyrail. Yeah, it is a total custom build going by the specs at the end. All in 1/32 too.
One thing that I don't think has been mentioned is that Peco G45 track is available in 36" flex. It is a shame they don't make a Y and X. I really like the look of it.
How do you find Peco nickel silver track as far as electrical conductivity via wheels and pick-ups goes and oxidization/cleaning issues compared to LGB brass? I have some here but never tested outside. :think:
Click to expand...
My Peco has been outside now for getting in 30 years (started using Peco around 1990) and in the early days it was just Battery / Live Steam. Then from 2000 I went to Electric Track Power and LGB Locomotives. This lasted on my old layout and current up to 2 years ago when I reverted to my past and went back to outside all Battery / Live Steam. During my ‘Track Cleaning Days’ a good scrub with the LGB Track Cleaning Block brought the Peco back to perfection with a couple of passes. To be honest I found no difference between Peco and other makes of Brass Track to get all nice and shiny. I also have other makes as well in the Garden, LGB, TrainLine and Aristicraft. As for Electrical Conductivity Clean Track is the key but between those 3ft or other sections Track Clamps I found are a must on a large Layout though some find years of use with just Fishplates and a pre application of LGB 51010 GRAPHITE PASTE on all the fishplates prior to laying helps as it also does when used in conjunction with Track Clamps if you choose to use them.

Another consideration with Track Clamps is that I believe that the Track has an additional element if security when clamped as it is almost impossible to remove track quickly as perhaps an intruder might want to do when in your Garden for foul deads. Hopefully you will never have that issue but a member of this forum did recently and luckily the scumbags were discouraged in full nicking track mode. However I do not believe the Track was clamped and the story could have been so much worse, I believe he has lifted his track for the time being till things cool down some.
 
Daniel Collett said:
I am fortunate enough to have a large garden for which I think an R3 with FLEXI wold be the better option. I’m still getting to grips with the compatibility side of things, so for now I will just stick to everything LGB Lehmann until I understand a bit more. Plus and I really don’t intend to offend, but the larger American loco’s aren’t my flavour anyway. Dan
Click to expand...

Hi Dan and welcome aboard. If you have a large garden and a decent area allocated for your line them stick with Flexi track as much as possible and get/hire yourself a decent rail bender to shape it as desired. The beauty of flexi track is you can indulge yourself with whatever your imagination desires in layout terms without the need for multiple bits of different radius track and a lot of head scratching to get it to all fit together. It allows you to create those more "realistic" transitional curves in your line. "Set track" though is great for straightforward formations like sidings but go for the largest standard radius available, LGB's R5, in what you are using there as you never know how your interests will develop.

Don't worry too much about sticking with LGB's own branded track products alone, even at the start. Their 45mm gauged code 332 (rail height in thou") track system has become so dominant over the years that loads of other manufacturers, with a couple of exceptions, have made both their own brand track systems fully compatible but also their locos and stock too. Examples - Piko, Bachmann, Trainline, Aristocraft, USA Trains, Acccucraft, etc'. There will be some differences in the terminology and radius descriptions they use for their own brands' track's geometry and there will be some difference in sleeper spacing and colour - but they all fit together without the need for any adaptors. Why ? Their rail profiles are all pretty much identical, which is an additional help if you end up using rail clamps. Once its down on the ground and weathered in a little it'll all look ok. The range of track pieces available to this standard, other than just plain rail sections, like - points, slips, crossings, is phenomenal from all the manufacturers collectively and some specialist suppliers too, like Garden Railway Specialists in the UK.

But most of all get something down and running. From a lover of large US locos and stock.......and the smaller UK stuff too :) Max
 
Last edited:
I've just noticed your avatar.

That locomotive is not my favourite - having paid a healthy sum to have dinner while being hauled by what I thought was a beautifully restored steam loco - she failed

It's not quite the same being hauled by a scruffy Class 47
 
Rhinochugger said:
I've just noticed your avatar.

That locomotive is not my favourite - having paid a healthy sum to have dinner while being hauled by what I thought was a beautifully restored steam loco - she failed

It's not quite the same being hauled by a scruffy Class 47
Click to expand...
Yes the Pig as I call it does for unaccountable reasons of logic command a serious premium wherever it turns up. Part of it must be to do with exorbitant hire fees from ‘our’ National oh not now ‘National’ Railway Museum.
 
dunnyrail said:
My Peco has been outside now for getting in 30 years (started using Peco around 1990) and in the early days it was just Battery / Live Steam. Then from 2000 I went to Electric Track Power and LGB Locomotives. This lasted on my old layout and current up to 2 years ago when I reverted to my past and went back to outside all Battery / Live Steam. During my ‘Track Cleaning Days’ a good scrub with the LGB Track Cleaning Block brought the Peco back to perfection with a couple of passes. To be honest I found no difference between Peco and other makes of Brass Track to get all nice and shiny. I also have other makes as well in the Garden, LGB, TrainLine and Aristicraft. As for Electrical Conductivity Clean Track is the key but between those 3ft or other sections Track Clamps I found are a must on a large Layout though some find years of use with just Fishplates and a pre application of LGB 51010 GRAPHITE PASTE on all the fishplates prior to laying helps as it also does when used in conjunction with Track Clamps if you choose to use them.

Another consideration with Track Clamps is that I believe that the Track has an additional element if security when clamped as it is almost impossible to remove track quickly as perhaps an intruder might want to do when in your Garden for foul deads. Hopefully you will never have that issue but a member of this forum did recently and luckily the scumbags were discouraged in full nicking track mode. However I do not believe the Track was clamped and the story could have been so much worse, I believe he has lifted his track for the time being till things cool down some.
Click to expand...

Thanks dunnyrail. So I take it that nickel silver rail has little advantage over oxidizing brass rail and still needs regular cleaning for reliable electrical operation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top