Lgb 69576 motor tender to dcc???

So many questions! Easy Tiger, let's deal with one thing at a time. :nod:

So, we have both loco and tender running..

1. Do they run in the same direction?

2. Do they both respond to the same address. - Both move when the same address is selected on your Cab?

3. What is the value of CV 29:
For the loco?
For the tender?

Amongst other things, CV 29 sets the number of speed-step, and whether a 'standard' or 'custom' speed-curve is used. - If these do not match, the two units will not start and run at similar speeds.

Rear Light:
Yes, you can use the LR and Dec + connections, but there will be a CV to set a divider. You use this to match the lighting voltage to the rating of the bulb.
If your rear-light is a plug-in bulb, does it have a flat end? - If so, it is most likely a 5V bulb, set the divider to '6'.
This light will only be energised (on) when the tender is running in reverse.

We can get the speeds right, and the rear light working first, then start looking at the sound..

PhilP.
Not sure what you mean about the light. The two wires don’t seem to come off bulb connections easily.
 

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Light:

That is a LED..
You can run this front the decoder, but need a current limiting resistor, and to get the polarity correct for it to work.
DON'T try to connect it without a resistor, or you will need to buy a new one! :D

You can find calculators on the Internet, for LED resistor values. - You will want 820 Ohms or more.
I suggest 1k and work down, if that is a little dim for you.
Don't go to low!

Assuming the LED has been wired correctly:

Red wire to Dec. +
Black wire to LR

On your decoder. - Don't try it without a series resistor.

PhilP.
 
Light:

That is a LED..
You can run this front the decoder, but need a current limiting resistor, and to get the polarity correct for it to work.
DON'T try to connect it without a resistor, or you will need to buy a new one! :D

You can find calculators on the Internet, for LED resistor values. - You will want 820 Ohms or more.
I suggest 1k and work down, if that is a little dim for you.
Don't go to low!

Assuming the LED has been wired correctly:

Red wire to Dec. +
Black wire to LR

On your decoder. - Don't try it without a series resistor.

PhilP.
What about sound (new sound card or old one) or ditch the idea?
 
What about sound (new sound card or old one) or ditch the idea?
I am assuming that you could not control the soundcard from your Cab?

If so, it is an analogue soundcard, and you will not be able to do much with it, other than get a 'chuff' and automatic sounds..
If there is a reed switch board in the motor-block (these are operated by magnets between the rails) we can possibly use these inputs to allow you to trigger, usually, the whistle and bell.

PhilP.
 
I am assuming that you could not control the soundcard from your Cab?

If so, it is an analogue soundcard, and you will not be able to do much with it, other than get a 'chuff' and automatic sounds..
If there is a reed switch board in the motor-block (these are operated by magnets between the rails) we can possibly use these inputs to allow you to trigger, usually, the whistle and bell.

PhilP.
It is analog. I just thought i could retain the old card. It does have the reed switch that activates the sound when it passes the magnet. I believe I’ll get more bang for the buck if i just get a new card from Massoth for the sound and the conversion to doc will be done. Now off to find a resistor for the led. Any suggestions of brand/site? Part#.


Question about cv? Cv 29 is set to 3 but it isn’t listed in the book. Does the number run like 0-50?
 

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Last edited:
It is analog. I just thought i could retain the old card. It does have the reed switch that activates the sound when it passes the magnet. I believe ill get more bang for the buck if i just get a new card from Massoth for the sound and the conversion to doc will be done
You will get more control, and the fidelity from a newer decoder, will be better..

You could swap to an XLS decoder. - This would be capable of running both loco and tender motors, if you wished.

PhilP.
 
It is analog. I just thought i could retain the old card. It does have the reed switch that activates the sound when it passes the magnet. I believe I’ll get more bang for the buck if i just get a new card from Massoth for the sound and the conversion to doc will be done. Now off to find a resistor for the led. Any suggestions of brand/site? Part#.


Question about cv? Cv 29 is set to 3 but it isn’t listed in the book. Does the number run like 0-50?
PhilP PhilP
 
CV 29 is a bit of a monster..
It is a 'standard' but each 'binary digit' is like a 'switch' controlling things like number of speed-steps, default or custom speed-curve, ling/short address format.

Click me..

Welcome to the rabbit-hole of DCC. :nerd:

You did ask. ;)

PhilP.
 
CV 29 is a bit of a monster..
It is a 'standard' but each 'binary digit' is like a 'switch' controlling things like number of speed-steps, default or custom speed-curve, ling/short address format.

Click me..

Welcome to the rabbit-hole of DCC. :nerd:

You did ask. ;)

PhilP.
Thanks for the replies and knowledge. Yes I did ask and appreciate the time. I like learning new things. Thanks again.

I did not record or change cv 1 which I see is mentioned in a previous post. Should I still do that?
 
I did not record or change cv 1 which I see is mentioned in a previous post. Should I still do that?
If it ain't broke..

You should be able to save/print things if you have some way of reading CV's etc. on your computer. - This will depend on the manufacturer of the equipment. You may need a 'dongle' of some sort, to connect to your system.
Massoth have a 'PC Module' for this..

PhilP
 
If it ain't broke..

You should be able to save/print things if you have some way of reading CV's etc. on your computer. - This will depend on the manufacturer of the equipment. You may need a 'dongle' of some sort, to connect to your system.
Massoth have a 'PC Module' for this..

PhilP
Got it!
 
Thanks for the replies and knowledge. Yes I did ask and appreciate the time. I like learning new things. Thanks again.

I did not record or change cv 1 which I see is mentioned in a previous post. Should I still do that?
CV 1 is in effect the “name or unique’ of the loco in your case 3, this is the default that all new locomotives are shipped out with. You call this number on your controller to get it running. Thus if you get another DCC chipped loco CV 1 will also be 3. So then you will need to think about changing that number to other than 3. If you do not have a dedicated programming track ensure no other locomotives are on the track when changing any cv or all the locomotives will be changed. Thus you could change cv 1 on your loco and tender together if and when you change it.
 
CV 1 is in effect the “name or unique’ of the loco in your case 3, this is the default that all new locomotives are shipped out with. You call this number on your controller to get it running. Thus if you get another DCC chipped loco CV 1 will also be 3. So then you will need to think about changing that number to other than 3. If you do not have a dedicated programming track ensure no other locomotives are on the track when changing any cv or all the locomotives will be changed. Thus you could change cv 1 on your loco and tender together if and when you change it.
Ok got it. I appreciate it! I do have a dedicated program track.
 
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