I had to make a few, mostly for cost reasons. Couple of things I learned:
You can make points with both proper brass rail, and flat aluminium bar. The aluminium bar is cheaper of course, but it's easier and slightly less labor intensive to use proper brass rail, because you can just spike it down. You can solder it too, and the completed product looks better.
You don't need any fancy tools or plans. Just a simple track gauge, a wheelset, a hacksaw and a file is enough. I used a spare sleeper as a track gauge. If you start with one rail you can work your way across measuring all dimensions with the track gauge.
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This was the build order I found to be easiest. Start with spiking down rail 1, then 2, measuring with your track gauge on the left. Then 3, measuring with your track gauge to make sure it's bent to the same radius as 2. I found it easier to lay rail 3 as a continuous piece, and then cut a slot in the railhead later for the point frog. That way it's easier to make sure the curvature is constant.
Note that if you're using track power you'd need to have some insulated rail joiners and a switch to switch the polarity of the frog section with the point blades.
Rail 4 is next, with the end cut on an angle to match rail 3. If you're using brass rail you can solder it here, to make a nice point frog.
Rail 5 can be bent to form a short wing rail for the frog where it meets rail 3, save having to cut a flangeway.
Last of all is the point blade itself. Personally I like tramway style points, which only have a single blade. It's less fabricating, and less likely to get derbies stuck between the blades for outside operation.
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Here's a single bladed set of points using conventional brass rail. The point blade itself is made from a bit of aluminium bar, held down with a screw. The screw is tightened to provide just enough friction to keep the point blade in position, so there's no point lever required..
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This set of points has conventional point blades instead. You might need to file a little nick in the stock rail so the point blade sits up against it nicely. The extended sleepers are for the point lever mechanism.
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You can use the same basic building technique to build more complex sets of points for specialist applications too. This set of points is designed to be concreted in, so it has full check rails to form a flangeway. Instead of conventional sleepers, the brass rail is soldered to some scrap steel tie bars to hold the gauge until it is concreted. Note that even though the overlapping sets of points on the left look complicated, there is only one extra place where the rails have to cross compared to a conventional set of points.
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The finished product after concreting. Because of the continuous check rails this is somewhere where paying attention to the back to back measurement (the distance between the insides of the wheel flanges) is important. This measurement actually varies a bit between wheelsets from different manufacturers, so make sure you test with a few different wheelsets! On ordinary sleepered track this doesn't matter as much.
