Making my own track....next consideration

[dunnyrail]

Hi Fred-
Yes, I do know Dan and he's pretty much responsible for bringing me over to the "dark side". Actually I'm going to see him in a few minutes as he's only 10 minutes away. I've visited his layout several times and have met some of the guys so possibly we've met as well (I'm not great remembering names).
Thanks for your replies, I appreciate all the help I can get.

I doubt compleyely that the 1" Foam would be any good to support track unless you had supports every 6"-1ft even at a foot I think it would be too weak for the job. Said this before I think but my build link below will give you ideas.

Another way is to use building block shaped like an 8 to gain height mounted on Concrete Girders/Gravel Boards with similar Girders for the track base. Not the cheepest solution but quick to assemble. Nick Trudgeon who built the Southern Cross Garden Railway uses this method. Book well worth a read if you can get it or borrow it. He describes these methods in his book.

 

[R. YOUNG]

If you click on Fred's avatar it will open up and there is a "start a conversation" facility. Just click on that and start your message. It will probably want a title to your message.

Thanks Trammayo-
Where's a 1-year old when you need some IT help?
I'll try that.

 

[trammayo]

Thanks Trammayo-
Where's a 1-year old when you need some IT help?
I'll try that.

No problem! I've had to stop banging my head against the wall for fear the wall will collapse.

 

[R. YOUNG]

Well, here's another "mind bending" question. I've found a pretty good deal on track, code 250, in Aluminum. I intend to run it on an outdoor elevated layout live steam or battery power but no electrical power to track. The track comes in 8 ft. lengths. The question is should I consider using aluminum rail simply for the cost or are there other hidden considerations that might be lurking "down the track" so to speak?
Looking forward to any advice.
Thanks-

 

[korm kormsen]

elevated, no trackpower? go for it!

 

[dunnyrail]

Well, here's another "mind bending" question. I've found a pretty good deal on track, code 250, in Aluminum. I intend to run it on an outdoor elevated layout live steam or battery power but no electrical power to track. The track comes in 8 ft. lengths. The question is should I consider using aluminum rail simply for the cost or are there other hidden considerations that might be lurking "down the track" so to speak?
Looking forward to any advice.
Thanks-

Well as you have got it cheep go for it, however it will be pretty well impossible to Solder in a domestic environment which will make Frogs difficult (the pointy bit where two rails separate need to be soldered together). There could be issues of getting it back flat if anyone unintentionally stood on it and bent it in a downwards or uowards direction. Also track will not tarnish meaning after years it will still be nice and bright. I know that this would iritate me immensly as I like my Rail to look like the real thing, even new real rail on the Railway is rusted and eventually goes to a dull well Track Colour. As you are not doing Track Power there will be no issues on connecting Power Wires. However if you wanted to use the Rail for other Track circuits or Lighting joining Ally to Copper Wire etc can have issues of Corrosion.

 

[stockers]

Well, here's another "mind bending" question. I've found a pretty good deal on track, code 250, in Aluminum. I intend to run it on an outdoor elevated layout live steam or battery power but no electrical power to track. The track comes in 8 ft. lengths. The question is should I consider using aluminum rail simply for the cost or are there other hidden considerations that might be lurking "down the track" so to speak?
Looking forward to any advice.
Thanks-

Go for it. No power problems (ali is not a good conductor - or more accurately its oxide is not). It is a bit softer than steel or brass and so could get damaged but on a decent base - no problem.
Peco make ( or did) 250 ali rail maybe it is theirs.

 

[R. YOUNG]

elevated, no trackpower? go for it!

Thanks Korm, that's what I'm probably going to do.

 

[R. YOUNG]

Well as you have got it cheep go for it, however it will be pretty well impossible to Solder in a domestic environment which will make Frogs difficult (the pointy bit where two rails separate need to be soldered together). There could be issues of getting it back flat if anyone unintentionally stood on it and bent it in a downwards or uowards direction. Also track will not tarnish meaning after years it will still be nice and bright. I know that this would iritate me immensly as I like my Rail to look like the real thing, even new real rail on the Railway is rusted and eventually goes to a dull well Track Colour. As you are not doing Track Power there will be no issues on connecting Power Wires. However if you wanted to use the Rail for other Track circuits or Lighting joining Ally to Copper Wire etc can have issues of Corrosion.

Thanks for your thoughts, Dunnyrail. I know that AL rail has it's own problems and not being able to solder might be a big obstacle. However, I'm probably going to use ready-made turnouts at this point as I've got no experience making track of any kind and making turnouts seems to be much more complex than simply making track. I will probably even mix rail material (ugh, won't that be ugly?) if it's economical to do so. We'll see what happens.

 

[stockers]

I would not worry about different rail weights. In the garden you will hardly notice it and anyway - the big railways use different rail weights.

 

[Paul M]

Thanks for your thoughts, Dunnyrail. I know that AL rail has it's own problems and not being able to solder might be a big obstacle. However, I'm probably going to use ready-made turnouts at this point as I've got no experience making track of any kind and making turnouts seems to be much more complex than simply making track. I will probably even mix rail material (ugh, won't that be ugly?) if it's economical to do so. We'll see what happens.

I wouldn't worry too much, after a few months the track and environs will have blended together and no one will notice your track work

 

[R. YOUNG]

I wouldn't worry too much, after a few months the track and environs will have blended together and no one will notice your track work

That was the answer I was hoping for. I think I'll go for the AL rail and see what happens.
Thanks all for your suggestions & replies

 

[JGDURAND]

No, it is not difficult to weld aluminum, see the link, that's what I use to weld my frogs and it's resistant


http://www.durafix-easyweld.com/fr/

 

[dunnyrail]

No, it is not difficult to weld aluminum, see the link, that's what I use to weld my frogs and it's resistant


http://www.durafix-easyweld.com/fr/

Oho new one on me, looks a little extreme for joining small stuff but would certainly work for Frogs as you say.

 

[trammayo]

No, it is not difficult to weld aluminum, see the link, that's what I use to weld my frogs and it's resistant


http://www.durafix-easyweld.com/fr/

There was a company in the UK selling Eutectic welding rods for welding aluminium - I was interested in such things over 50 years ago!

My brother repaired a car wheel using similar rods.

It's nice to get my memory refreshed!

 

[dunnyrail]

I must learn not to believe all that I read in Modern Railways where they have talked about the difficulties of repairing and welding Ally in Trains. Seams like a process that has been overcomplicated in some circles.

 

[PhilP]

Welding Ali does present some problems!

It either melts into a puddle on the floor, burns, or oxides as soon as you turn your back on your nicely cleaned weld-site!

 

[JGDURAND]

????

 

[Greg Elmassian]

That is more correctly called a solder, right? You are not melting the other metal, just the soldering rod. You heat until the rod flows...

 

[trammayo]

That is more correctly called a solder, right? You are not melting the other metal, just the soldering rod. You heat until the rod flows...

Yes - the same as brazing!