Massoth in-to lgb ge4/4 111

mmts

mmts

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Take one of these
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One of these
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And a couple of these (optional)
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Rest loco upside down on something soft to remove the 4 screws holding the middle section
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Which will reveal the two hidden screws holding the body on.... (the other 4 (2 at each end) are visible by moving the bogies to each side)
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Take the removed middle section and drill several holes for the sound to escape
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And fix the speaker using some ......screws!!
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Protect the lead weight with something suitable and fix the chip to-it and plug the interface cable in-to the blue socket on the Lgb board and the wires into the corresponding choc block on the massoth board
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Use the supplied cables on the board pins (make sure you do both rows... dont ask how i know how!!:Looser: )
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Change the GREY body red dip switches on the Lgb board DONT touch the red body white ones (still in the factory set mode in the pix)
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Arrange the loco the right way up and feed the speaker wire thru the hole in the base and plug into the massoth board
Place the loco on to the programing track
If youve done it right the central station will read the chip
Then reprogram the lights so as they dont blow and select your preferred address
Take the loco carefully to the track and perform a test run...... if its all ok then wonderful return to the bench and refit all the screws if not then return to the bench to fit the second row of cables to the pins!!( see above)
Then find some suitable rolling stock,another cider sit back relax and run it!!
Thats how i did it hope it helps ;)
 
:thumbup: beautifully done ed!!
 
Best to set the lights as soon as the power leads are connected to the chip, as soon will put the loco onto the track to test.. And proptly blow the lights as the light cv come set to full track voltage.
 
mmts said:
Use the supplied cables on the board pins (make sure you do both rows... dont ask how i know how!!:Looser: )
Click to expand...

How do you know then Ed:rolf::rolf::rolf:
 
bunnyrabbit03 said:
Does the board not provide stabilised voltage? There should be no need to alter the CV.
Click to expand...

I must admit that was my understanding too - if you're ripping the original factory board out and rewiring everything direct to the decoder, then yes, you need to set the light dimming CV - but if you're doing it this way with the interface cable to the existing board, I don't think it's necessary?
Nice neat install though, Ed! :bigsmile:

Jon.
 
Well it is easier to adjust the cv and not need to ..... but ill let you try first and let me know how long it takes to replace all the bulbs ;)
 
mmts said:
Well it is easier to adjust the cv and not need to ..... but ill let you try first and let me know how long it takes to replace all the bulbs ;)
Click to expand...

When I put an XL into my factory-sound DR Mallet (to replace the old factory-fitted 55020/55030 combo), using the same wiring setup as you've done here (LGB 6-way interface cable plus the two lots of pickup/motor leads - yes, you need both sets, one for each motor!), I didn't change anything on the decoder and all the lamps are still working fine....
But I do agree that if in any doubt, it's worth doing it even if not needed, than not doing it and then finding out the hard way that you should have. ;)

Jon.
 
I've installed a XLS in the BCU Ge 4/4 III with the same type of setup with the LGB 55026 interface cable and didn't have to change the light CV either.

You should also note that you can have parallel (=fast) command chain with the XLS decoder when it is hooked up to the LGB print. You have to activate "Fast Pulse String" and "Serial and Parallel Data Transfer" in CV49. I used C V49=11 (Serial + Parallell Data Transfer on, Digital Load Control on, Fast Pulse String on F1 on). The XLS will handle all sounds and driving charachteristics, and the old LGB print will handle the panto movement.

The only downside is that F1, F2 and F3 has a slow response (=serial command chain), all the other function keys have a quick response (=parallell). And that F2 and F3 panto movement can not be assigned to other function keys.

This is not a problem for me and I am quite happy with the conversion.
 
The board does have voltage regulators built into it so there is no need to alter the cv's for the lights.
 
Albula has hole in the same place Craig

craigwrdouglas said:
Do the 4/4 IIIs with Factory fitted sound (e.g, Albula or Unesco) have holes in the base plate or is it the same one?

Craig
Click to expand...
 
I have just tried similar to a 20420 MOB Ge IV/IV - except it has a Phoenix sound-card.
I have a problem that only the front pantograph goes up/down, and only if I press F1 twice in quick succession..
Pretty dang-sure I had sorted CV-ing this, but I admit to it being an early attempt.
Should both pantographs be controlable?
Should they behave similarly to analogue, and swap over when you reverse direction of travel?
Phil.
 
if it's like mine F7 should change the setting .Tre it once and it not twice in sucession
then go back to F3
 
Nope, no difference.. Think it will be a start again on the decoder..
F1 (if 'pulsed') gives front panto up/down. Rear stays up all time.
F2 whistle
F3 nothing
F8 definitely gives 'Switching speed'.
'0' (on my Digitrax) turns lights off/on
Rest do not appear to do anything.
 
Switching speed on F8 would lead me to belive it is not an lgb decoder . More likely yo be Massoth

PhilP said:
Nope, no difference.. Think it will be a start again on the decoder..
F1 (if 'pulsed') gives front panto up/down. Rear stays up all time.
F2 whistle
F3 nothing
F8 definitely gives 'Switching speed'.
'0' (on my Digitrax) turns lights off/on
Rest do not appear to do anything.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry, yes a Massoth eMotion XL (8150001).. I was following on from the XLS installation piccy's, so thought that was a 'given'.
 
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