More a garden layout than a garden railway!

DSC_0152.JPG DSC_0153.JPG Further to my description of my garden, I now attach photographs showing the view from the patio doors towards the rear fence; the gate is in the LH corner; and a view from the rear fence to the back of the house. As you can see it is compact and the oval of track on the patio is about 12' x 4'.
The table is due to be replaced by a smaller round one and hopefully the bins will be sited outside the LHS fence when viewed from the house.. I'm also trying to get the gate re-sited so it opens outwards.
The wooden fence has a batten about 3' from the ground which I might utilise.
With such a small area do I build it at waist height or do I build it somewhat lower and make it a little landscaped?
Any comments would be appreciated, please.
Thanks
Sarah Winfield
 
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Sarah Winfield said:
Further to my description of my garden, I now attach photographs showing the view from the patio doors towards the rear fence; the gate is in the LH corner; and a view from the rear fence to the back of the house. As you can see it is compact and the oval of track on the patio is about 12' x 4'.
The table is due to be replaced by a smaller round one and hopefully the bins will be sited outside the LHS fence when viewed from the house.. I'm also trying to get the gate re-sited so it opens outwards.
The wooden fence has a batten about 3' from the ground which I might utilise.
With such a small area do I build it at waist height or do I build it somewhat lower and make it a little landscaped?
Any comments would be appreciated, please.
Thanks
Sarah Winfield
Click to expand...
Can't see the pictures. As others have said, everyone has different needs and ideas. What might work for someone may be the worst thing for someone else. Read the ideas and nick, without compunction, the bits that'll suit you best.:mask:
Remember that which ever way you go about it will be work, and time needs to be taken. Lazy Granges, Dunnyrails et all were definitely not built in a day. Rome may have been, but the 2 Rs didn't have to cope with R1s:giggle:
 
Sarah Winfield said:
Further to my description of my garden, I now attach photographs showing the view from the patio doors towards the rear fence; the gate is in the LH corner; and a view from the rear fence to the back of the house. As you can see it is compact and the oval of track on the patio is about 12' x 4'.
The table is due to be replaced by a smaller round one and hopefully the bins will be sited outside the LHS fence when viewed from the house.. I'm also trying to get the gate re-sited so it opens outwards.
The wooden fence has a batten about 3' from the ground which I might utilise.
With such a small area do I build it at waist height or do I build it somewhat lower and make it a little landscaped?
Any comments would be appreciated, please.
Thanks
Sarah Winfield
Click to expand...
No Pics Sarah.

I would suggest waist height then you can plant below to soften the effect. Lonicera works very well for such situations growing up to whatever height you need and easily trimmed. Not a thug as Conifers can be.

The wood work in the pic below looks a bit brutal but that is because of the double deck and width for a Station. Imagine the lower part only which is around waist height and the lonicera is creeping up to the required height.
image.jpeg
Here again pic below double deck but with only single lines, the Sage Herb to the right has just had a severe haircut but does fill in the area quite quickly and of course is useful in cooking. In the middle is a recently moved planter full of Yellow Plants that will be flowering soon again these or other reasonably high shrubs or every year flowering plants can work well to hide any woodwork.
image.jpeg
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I have now attached the pictures to my original enquiry.

Sarah Winfield
Click to expand...
Having now seen your Garden I would suggest somthing on the lines of Pauls suggestion, the Right Hand drawing he did on Post 4. This will give you the ability to continue easy access in the Garden.
 
I'm still trying to sort out my thoughts about my "outside" garden layout.

The area is small. Garden railways to me should run at ground level or at the very least on a (say) 9" to 12" high ledge. Indoor layouts usually at say a height of 30/36". I can't see the point of an outdoor layout (please, no-one take offence).

I just have to eliminate all my negativity and what is left can only be positive.

Another aspect I must consider is that I have Romany blood. I've never really lived anywhere long enough to have put down roots and say "this is it". That's what I'm afraid of now.

Sarah Winfield
 
I leave to more experience persons of this forum to make suggestions.
These drawing are made with R1 only
The first drawing is 27 meters

I think having a software will help you to define little by little steps what is more suitable to you.
 
I think you might struggle to get two tracks through that panel in the shed side by side ;)
So how about mixing the two plans and the one by the wall going through the shed and the other one around it as in the other plan?
It also gives you a bit more single track as a different view.
With height it's whatever suits you :) One possibility for a bit of height is a track laid on blocks which are just laid on the ground, which can be painted to blend in, and sceniced with a selection of planters in front. That would be easily moved in future.
 
Now a few days ago Glenhills Railway (I think) posted a video of Eddie's garden railway..

There is a section along the path, by the side of the house, which is about a foot off the ground.. This is 'demountable' and he then uses it at exhibitions.. - I must enquire how he gets the extra height!

This is several years old. Obviously works at (at least) two heights, and is portable..
Does that cover all bases?
 
My friends father now sadly deceased built a Railway very much on portable exhibition lines and put it up on hiw lawn in the Summer taking it down to store in the shed over winter. Said layout is now in my friends garden and has been stored outside for 3-4 years since his dad passed away. Construction was a U shape using Wicks Wood Geavel Boards 3 to a length of 2.4 metres each board. Supports from rough tanalised nominal 2x1" timber slot into slots in the boards 1 at each join with perhaps extras in curves. Covered in good quality roofing felt and painted natural green wood stain looked fine on the lawn. All the wood being tanalised will have a very long life outside if not in contact with earth.

Curves are made by cutting shorter lengths and using wood underneath to get sensible length boards. Bearing in mind Sarah's alleged nomadic life this would work very well for her and not be at ground level making for more enjoyment. I have use this system in the past and some very old still adorns my line though I midified the bottom as I needed more wood at the time.

Bottom view showing one side with the overhanging roofing felt.
image.jpeg
Below a side view of a single line length.
image.jpeg
For double track which Sarah might need a little outside just join the Gravel Broards below with off cuts of the same material. Some if my biards came from a friends layout thet he dismantled in 2000 just as I wqs building my new line at Hemel Hempstead, they were probably 6-8 years old then.
 
Well, my apologies but although I began this thread it has been a few days since I last updated myself.

Thank you for the additional postings with some suggestions which are informative and give me further help in my thought processes.

I've managed to accumulate a dozen or so rockery stones and these will break the view of the trains going round and round. I'm still not settled on the height of the track and consequently the method of supporting it.

Has any member used "Metposts"? These can be bought with either a long tapered stake which can be hammered into the earth or with a square base. This latter one could simply sit on my patio and be temporarily fixed with an adhesive. Into these I can install lengths of square fence post with a cross member and the gravel board screwed to them like a "T".

So tomorrow I'll buy some Metposts and a length of gravel board to try out.

If any member has concerns about this approach I would be grateful if they would voice them please.

Thank you,

Sarah Winfield
 
There are a couple problems with Metposts..
1. They take a heck of a lot of effort to drive in!
2. They are difficult to keep straight!!
The limited height your post will be means the other problem of them not being particularly secure at holding posts will not be a problem.
 
Thank you for your comments.

Taking a suggestion from a previous post could I sit breeze type blocks on the stone gravel and have the metposts with the square foot sit on the breeze blocks? I would of course have some kind of "securement" of the breeze blacks to prevent them moving.

These kinds of thoughts might demonstrate the uncertainty of my staying anywhere for any length of time.

Sarah Winfield
 
Over in the World many of us use deck foundation blocks, mainly because a lot of the landscape in Canada either moves around from frost heave - temperatures from -30C to +30C will do that. These items are roughly pyramidal in shape, but with the top chopped off, and have a set of cross slots to take wooden sections of 2/3/4" square. Ar around 50 - 60 pounds weight, they are not going to wander around much, and the vertical hole, again, to take 3" or 4" square posts, is as vertical as the base is flat.

Lemme see if I can find a pic.

deck_foundation_blocks_home_depot_3804_900_900.jpg


tac
OVGRS
 
There are met post type holders for flat surfaces but another option would be largish 12" plastic plant tubs with concrete poured in the bottom to secure wood posts. You can even have a layer of soil in to grow some plants if you push some dowels thru the concrete for drainage. They would be movable in future too.
Maybe mock something up with a few bits of track to see how it looks?
 
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