For my deck I've used plastic decking supports. They are available in various heights, but more usefully they are adjustable which makes it easier to get a level surface, or slopes, if that's your inclination. (Sorry). They aren't too costly either, especially if the idiots who we bought them from sent us 2 lots instead of 1. I'll try and get a picture later, but look under Making a Deck in Googythingy.Over in the World many of us use deck foundation blocks, mainly because a lot of the landscape in Canada either moves around from frost heave - temperatures from -30C to +30C will do that. These items are roughly pyramidal in shape, but with the top chopped off, and have a set of cross slots to take wooden sections of 2/3/4" square. Ar around 50 - 60 pounds weight, they are not going to wander around much, and the vertical hole, again, to take 3" or 4" square posts, is as vertical as the base is flat.
Lemme see if I can find a pic.
tac
OVGRS
More a garden layout than a garden railway!
- Thread starter Sarah Winfield
- Start date
As Paul says the Met Posts with a flat can certainly be used but you may need to have two side by side (here and there) to give some element of stability, not good to be tying things to existing Garden Fence Panels or their posts though some do it without a care.
Pic of where I have used the Flat Met Posts that have all been screwed into a Concrete Path but you do not really need to do that if you have the odd double as I said and with your curves. You can see a couple of spare ones in this picture.
These were old ones recovered from my Garden that had bits of old post in that I could not remove. Wood Post cutlevel to the Top of the metal and a night in the Log Burner soon resolved that problem!
The other thing to look for are Hollow Concrete Blocks that are like an 8, these can be used sideways to support your track and the bit at the front used as a planter or even Rock Holder. Note though that they are quite heavy but very adaptable. If the colour offends you can always paint them with Green Masonry Paint.
Pic of where I have used the Flat Met Posts that have all been screwed into a Concrete Path but you do not really need to do that if you have the odd double as I said and with your curves. You can see a couple of spare ones in this picture.
These were old ones recovered from my Garden that had bits of old post in that I could not remove. Wood Post cutlevel to the Top of the metal and a night in the Log Burner soon resolved that problem!
The other thing to look for are Hollow Concrete Blocks that are like an 8, these can be used sideways to support your track and the bit at the front used as a planter or even Rock Holder. Note though that they are quite heavy but very adaptable. If the colour offends you can always paint them with Green Masonry Paint.
AustrianNG
Director of my railway
A few years ago someone visited my railway and was at pains to differentiate between a garden railway and a layout in the garden........
I just laughed.......mine's a garden full of railway.
I just laughed.......mine's a garden full of railway.
tac foley
Registered
I lucked in to a local builders' supplies that was closing down, and got a few dozen longer Met-Posts. I also backed them up with the 'flat' fence fixers, as you call them, and used them on top of the posts to hold the principal cross-pieces. My track has been in position since 2002.
tac
tac
Paradise
Registered
Sarah, sorry about the late reply but I've been offline for a week or so.
I'm not sure where you are up to regarding your back yard railway design but here is what I came up with.
The size and placement are very critical with the R1 minimum due to gate width, exact shed position etc. so some tweaking will be needed.
The rear pavement has lost a row of tiles. The storage of bins and getting them through to the back gate will have to be considered.
Powering a loop to loop layout can get complex so I added an optional link track for a simple run around which will need a hinged lift up section much like the one in front of the rear gate.
If you would like something like this I can fiddle with the design but some exact measurements will be needed.
I'm not sure where you are up to regarding your back yard railway design but here is what I came up with.
The size and placement are very critical with the R1 minimum due to gate width, exact shed position etc. so some tweaking will be needed.
The rear pavement has lost a row of tiles. The storage of bins and getting them through to the back gate will have to be considered.
Powering a loop to loop layout can get complex so I added an optional link track for a simple run around which will need a hinged lift up section much like the one in front of the rear gate.
If you would like something like this I can fiddle with the design but some exact measurements will be needed.
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Sarah Winfield
Registered
Thanks Paradise.
My immediate thought was "that's interesting" and my second was it gives a nice run with reversing loops. Having looked at it a bit more in depth in really appeals and the more I look at it the more interesting it gets.
I note and assume you have used some flexible track. Would it look too unrealistic if I only used R1 curves and points please?
Looking at your plan, the bottom is where my house is and the top is the rear fence. There are patio doors here but I can move the track away from them so they open without affecting the track.
Just a note the gate now opens outwards from the corner and that is the rear of my garden. I have re-sited the bins to the other side of the LHS fence.
What I have started is very straight and regimented. In it the runs in straight lines down the LHS fence, along the top fence, down the shed and back to the pathway. I'm hoping to put it on supports about 15" off the ground.
I have gravel boards for the track to lay on but I can see these being difficult to use with so many lovely curves.
I'm going to sit back and imagine it across my garden.
Again thank you for giving me so much pleasure just looking at it.
Sarah Winfield.
My immediate thought was "that's interesting" and my second was it gives a nice run with reversing loops. Having looked at it a bit more in depth in really appeals and the more I look at it the more interesting it gets.
I note and assume you have used some flexible track. Would it look too unrealistic if I only used R1 curves and points please?
Looking at your plan, the bottom is where my house is and the top is the rear fence. There are patio doors here but I can move the track away from them so they open without affecting the track.
Just a note the gate now opens outwards from the corner and that is the rear of my garden. I have re-sited the bins to the other side of the LHS fence.
What I have started is very straight and regimented. In it the runs in straight lines down the LHS fence, along the top fence, down the shed and back to the pathway. I'm hoping to put it on supports about 15" off the ground.
I have gravel boards for the track to lay on but I can see these being difficult to use with so many lovely curves.
I'm going to sit back and imagine it across my garden.
Again thank you for giving me so much pleasure just looking at it.
Sarah Winfield.
Sarah Winfield
Registered
I've been sitting in my garden with my toast and coffee breakfast watching the sea-mist roll in and obscure the sun contemplating my layout.
Of course, I suddenly realised, it is the sweeping curves which add to it's attractiveness. As I said all my track and points are R1. However I will have a 5' length of track which hopefully I can curve and perhaps I can invest it more! (Oh lordie, my poor old bank balance.)
I'm now in a quandary about whether it shouldn't be at ground level rather than on the supports? I think it would certainly be easier to lay although the track cleaning might be an issue.
Anyway, onward and upwards.
Sarah Winfield
Of course, I suddenly realised, it is the sweeping curves which add to it's attractiveness. As I said all my track and points are R1. However I will have a 5' length of track which hopefully I can curve and perhaps I can invest it more! (Oh lordie, my poor old bank balance.)
I'm now in a quandary about whether it shouldn't be at ground level rather than on the supports? I think it would certainly be easier to lay although the track cleaning might be an issue.
Anyway, onward and upwards.
Sarah Winfield
Paradise
Registered
Sarah, the gate opening to the outside is better because it gobbles up the corner otherwise. I assume your paving tiles are about 450mm square. I removed a row which leaves 3 rows being about 1350mm perhaps which should be plenty for the doors to swing fully open. Moving the track there more towards the back will make the space to walk through the two loops very narrow as the plan is although that will not be the case if the track is made to go closer to the gate. I suspect you may need to get your bins through there. I used a fair bit of flex track where I could so the curves are more meandering and less toy train like. There is almost 2 whole R1 circles in the layout where the minimum radius was necessary. It is possible to re-curve your existing track so it won't go to waste. Trains look better snaking around curves rather than just straights or circles. The sidings can be added at a later date but it is important to anticipate them now.
I would just decide on a plan that you think you will like then set it up on the ground level for now until you are sure then later set it all up on posts 650~750mm high. Grow some box hedging underneath in some spots, in a few years you can clip it like a solid bank. Some really big plastic pots for small trees placed in the loop areas would look nice. You can fill in those areas with old fence palings etc. so you can place some buildings etc.
It's all just food for thought and variations can be made. Even printing the image and cutting paper sections out and rearranging is probably easier than learning the AnyRail software. I can give you the AnyRail files if you like.
Below is another variations which gives more paved area for table, chairs and barbecue etc. There is even an engine shed!
The corner can be tucked in closer to the gate. It's not a critical spot. I may be a good place to park a bin anyway.
I would just decide on a plan that you think you will like then set it up on the ground level for now until you are sure then later set it all up on posts 650~750mm high. Grow some box hedging underneath in some spots, in a few years you can clip it like a solid bank. Some really big plastic pots for small trees placed in the loop areas would look nice. You can fill in those areas with old fence palings etc. so you can place some buildings etc.
It's all just food for thought and variations can be made. Even printing the image and cutting paper sections out and rearranging is probably easier than learning the AnyRail software. I can give you the AnyRail files if you like.
Below is another variations which gives more paved area for table, chairs and barbecue etc. There is even an engine shed!
The corner can be tucked in closer to the gate. It's not a critical spot. I may be a good place to park a bin anyway.
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Sarah Winfield
Registered
Thanks for the continuing comments.
The bins are no longer an issue as they are now the other side of the LHS fence.
I'm going to dismantle what I have done and as you say, lay the track on the ground to see how it looks. I might even leave it at gounnd level and use a gardening kneeling stool I have which has handles to help me up.
Also if it's at ground level the patio doors are no longer a problem because there is sufficient clearance for my locomotive to go under.
It becomes so much easier at or near ground level.
Sarah Winfield
The bins are no longer an issue as they are now the other side of the LHS fence.
I'm going to dismantle what I have done and as you say, lay the track on the ground to see how it looks. I might even leave it at gounnd level and use a gardening kneeling stool I have which has handles to help me up.
Also if it's at ground level the patio doors are no longer a problem because there is sufficient clearance for my locomotive to go under.
It becomes so much easier at or near ground level.
Sarah Winfield
Paradise
Registered
Sarah, here's another one with the existing paving plus a bit more on the shed side so you have more room for a table etc.
I'm reading your replies as I'm uploading so I'm a bit out of sync. Anyway, it has given me something to do with my new PC set-up. Enough for now. I can have another go later if you wish.
I hope I have helped stimulate some ideas. Good luck.
I'm reading your replies as I'm uploading so I'm a bit out of sync. Anyway, it has given me something to do with my new PC set-up. Enough for now. I can have another go later if you wish.
I hope I have helped stimulate some ideas. Good luck.
Sarah Winfield
Registered
Paradise, I'm afraid I have cribbed your first plan almost exactly.
It's amazing just how far track doesn't go! I thought I had plenty but having just laid out the bottom reversing loop and the station I've nearly exhausted my stock of LGB track. I do have some rail and sleeper strips on order which I hope I can use to give more pleasing sweeping curves along the LHS fence because at the moment it is all straights and R1 curves I've used.
So finally after the sea mist had dissipated about 3 this afternoon I managed to lay down some track. I have also been very lucky because one short piece of track I had was just the right length to make my reversing loop. Now I know why short lengths of track are available.
I've added a rather dark photograph to show the tracks I have laid and placed some rockery stones to hide the sharp curve.
So I'm rather pleased with my day, as short as it was and tomorrow I'll have to go searching for more track.
Sarah Winfield
It's amazing just how far track doesn't go! I thought I had plenty but having just laid out the bottom reversing loop and the station I've nearly exhausted my stock of LGB track. I do have some rail and sleeper strips on order which I hope I can use to give more pleasing sweeping curves along the LHS fence because at the moment it is all straights and R1 curves I've used.
So finally after the sea mist had dissipated about 3 this afternoon I managed to lay down some track. I have also been very lucky because one short piece of track I had was just the right length to make my reversing loop. Now I know why short lengths of track are available.
I've added a rather dark photograph to show the tracks I have laid and placed some rockery stones to hide the sharp curve.
So I'm rather pleased with my day, as short as it was and tomorrow I'll have to go searching for more track.
Sarah Winfield
korm kormsen
Registered
i know, that is not, what you want to hear, but with a garden of this size...
...have you ever thought about trying out O-scale?
...have you ever thought about trying out O-scale?
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Sarah Winfield
Registered
When I had a large garden I had 0 gauge all the way round, about 60 metres.
I wish I had discovered G scale earlier during my model railway interest. It came along rather late but I like the chunkiness of the track, locomotives and rolling stock.
I wouldn't say it is bullet proof but certainly should stand up to my clumsiness. It's a shame my garden isn't just a little bigger but one of the reasons for moving was a smaller plot and closer to shops, bus routes and my medical centre.
Sarah Winfield
I wish I had discovered G scale earlier during my model railway interest. It came along rather late but I like the chunkiness of the track, locomotives and rolling stock.
I wouldn't say it is bullet proof but certainly should stand up to my clumsiness. It's a shame my garden isn't just a little bigger but one of the reasons for moving was a smaller plot and closer to shops, bus routes and my medical centre.
Sarah Winfield
LGB-Sid
Registered
Sarah for short sections I tend to cut up one long length and then use massoth rail clamps to join the bits to the adjacent sections, two clamps in general per cut section, I found this way cheaper really than buying the LGB premade short sections, plus cutting your own you can have just the size you need rather than the nearest off the shelf one.
Paradise
Registered
That's good Sara. I think it's best to just get something going simple as you can for now. I tend to go for the smooth natural curves with flex track but they are more the thing you do for a final permanent layout. You can do much the same as I designed in a sectional approach which will be better for making alterations as need be. I personally would dislike track underfoot on a paved area but it's your railroad so be it. It is a good flat area to start out with though.
I think the connecting track between the loops will make it simple to operate not needing any special wiring etc. and the two return loops will offer some good running choices to reversing directions of the trains. They will also act as passing loops for idle trains. The running options won't get boring.
Building a raised railway is easier on the back and knees to get to and the trains look better closer to eye level but it can get complex to do so. Just depends on the situation. It is a costly permanent commitment so maybe leave that for later and get the trains running for now.
Have you considered using lengths of plastic garden edging? The stuff about 10mm thick. It is very flexible and you can pin it in place on the ground with wire tent pegs made for the job. You could lay 2 pieces about 200mm~300mm apart for a 'right of way' that sits about 75mm high. Fill it with quarter minus crushed rock or some type of driveway toppings etc. which will pack down to a firm solid to sit the track on. It can optionally be placed between the sleepers to keep them in place. That will give a neat slightly raised perimeter. You can fill the middle of loops with garden mulch to bring up to the same level or soil if more permanent.
If you decide to put it all higher on posts later, the edging can be reused bolted to the sides of 75mm PVC posts set into the ground. Short spacers of the same pipe every few feet will keep it all together. The track edges will simply sit on top of the edging but the trains may fall off if derailed so probably best to not go too high off the ground. Look into the ladder construction technique for raised garden railways. PVC and plastic edging is relatively cheap and it won't ever rot.
Anyway, good luck with the works.
I think the connecting track between the loops will make it simple to operate not needing any special wiring etc. and the two return loops will offer some good running choices to reversing directions of the trains. They will also act as passing loops for idle trains. The running options won't get boring.
Building a raised railway is easier on the back and knees to get to and the trains look better closer to eye level but it can get complex to do so. Just depends on the situation. It is a costly permanent commitment so maybe leave that for later and get the trains running for now.
Have you considered using lengths of plastic garden edging? The stuff about 10mm thick. It is very flexible and you can pin it in place on the ground with wire tent pegs made for the job. You could lay 2 pieces about 200mm~300mm apart for a 'right of way' that sits about 75mm high. Fill it with quarter minus crushed rock or some type of driveway toppings etc. which will pack down to a firm solid to sit the track on. It can optionally be placed between the sleepers to keep them in place. That will give a neat slightly raised perimeter. You can fill the middle of loops with garden mulch to bring up to the same level or soil if more permanent.
If you decide to put it all higher on posts later, the edging can be reused bolted to the sides of 75mm PVC posts set into the ground. Short spacers of the same pipe every few feet will keep it all together. The track edges will simply sit on top of the edging but the trains may fall off if derailed so probably best to not go too high off the ground. Look into the ladder construction technique for raised garden railways. PVC and plastic edging is relatively cheap and it won't ever rot.
Anyway, good luck with the works.
Paradise
Registered
korm kormsen
Registered
Surely you must mean 16mm to the foot scale on 32mm track.
no, i meant o-scale 1:45 or 1:48.
do the scale-math.
the longest possible loop in that garden (at 1:22.5) represents 450 meters of 1:1 scale track.
but Sarah already expressed, that she does not want to go O-scale.
Sarah Winfield
Registered
Be careful chaps, I think there may be a misunderstanding!
SW
SW