My Hudswell 040 shunter scratch build

Rhinochugger said:
Yup, gearing is an important issue. We're heading towards matters outside of my pay grade, but electric motors are happier when they're spinning freely - they're not good at bottom end grunt. This is why gearing is important in model railway terms; it's not just about speed.

In G scale, some of our trains can be weighty :nod::nod:

I can understand the mechanical bit, but with some of the electrical theory I can only repeat what I've been told :emo::emo:
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I think we are on the same pay grade, I only know about these motors ( Crawler motors ) that are happy to inch along at very slow speeds and carry a car weight of up to 4 kg's, but pull that trigger and they are off at
a break neck speed, something to do with the amount of turns in the wiring I believe, and it's a good idea to not let the smoke out of them .:tmi:
 
Alan McLennan said:
As I had mentioned in my newbie post I have been building a scratch built Hudswell battery powered, and I now know how
to post my pic's on here LOL, anyhow, it's made from brass sheet upper with steel chassis. I am about to scrap my drive line
as I don't think it will preform well enough, so I'm on the hunt for better ideas on here, so here it is so far.. trouble is I did take photos until I was well into it. :rolleyes:
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That sure is a nice loco, the paint job is very nice . Can i ask what paint you used and how many coats you did ?
 
grizzmo said:
That sure is a nice loco, the paint job is very nice . Can i ask what paint you used and how many coats you did ?
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Thank you, but my bad photography plays a hand in how it looks, the paint is Tamiya rattle can Camel yellow, it was done with a primer and at least 3 coats of colour
I intend to weather it some but need to build up the courage to do it. I am hanging 5 at the moment with the build, waiting on the geared motor to arrive.
 
Alan McLennan said:
Thank you, but my bad photography plays a hand in how it looks, the paint is Tamiya rattle can Camel yellow, it was done with a primer and at least 3 coats of colour
I intend to weather it some but need to build up the courage to do it. I am hanging 5 at the moment with the build, waiting on the geared motor to arrive.
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Thanks , that's good to know . I have had good results with their undercoat , satin black and matt green. Thought it might of had a few coats. When you pick the project up again I hope it goes well Allan.

regards stewie
 
I've used Bachmann 24.5mm dia metal wheelsets as I happened to have them handy and I know they cope well with my uneven trackwork.
I also used the same motor and gears but in a different configuration to drive the de Winton.
DSCN3739.JPG

This has coupling rods rather than Delrin chain for its 4wd.

S1920001.JPG

I'm really pleased at how quiet the drive is, considering they use brass bevel gears.

Rik
 
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grizzmo said:
Thanks , that's good to know . I have had good results with their undercoat , satin black and matt green. Thought it might of had a few coats. When you pick the project up again I hope it goes well Allan.

regards stewie
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Whoops, Stewie the primer wasn't Tamiya but Mr Primer surfacer 1000, had it laying around so put it to work, just gave it a little dusting and then the colour coats
LOL look at me giving advice, read instruction on the can would be better... if you can read Japanese ..
 
ge_rik said:
I've been playing around with GA25-370 gear motors and bevel gears from AliExpress
View attachment 333565
View attachment 333567View attachment 333569

The results seem to be quite successful


Rik
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Yes I follow you on ytube Rik, I particularly liked the De Winton test run intro music/ sounds video got a good laugh out of that one.
I have placed a order for a couple of motors and some 4mm and 6mm bevel gears. sure is a lot cheaper than a LGB motor or similar, no problems with reversing ?
Alan
 
Well the two gearhead motors showed up, a 200rpm and a 2000rpm motor, so I ripped the crawler motor and belt drive out and made two new
cross member motor mounts, well the first one was bent 2mm steel and it was 1.5mm too wide, practice always comes in handy..
The one that fits and works is made along the same lines as the chassis itself, 6mm brass square section drilled and tapped to bolt the steel rails
and buffer beams to . I must say it now has a lot more room under the bonnet. Can you all brush up on your battery knowledge cause I will be asking questions about them soon..462541817_954898623345597_3619610587198369682_n (1).jpg
 
Alan McLennan said:
Well the two gearhead motors showed up, a 200rpm and a 2000rpm motor, so I ripped the crawler motor and belt drive out and made two new
cross member motor mounts, well the first one was bent 2mm steel and it was 1.5mm too wide, practice always comes in handy..
The one that fits and works is made along the same lines as the chassis itself, 6mm brass square section drilled and tapped to bolt the steel rails
and buffer beams to . I must say it now has a lot more room under the bonnet. Can you all brush up on your battery knowledge cause I will be asking questions about them soon..View attachment 333971
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Have a look in the battery thread, lots of us done a lot and many articles there. Real issue you will have, is there space for NiMh around 10v would probably adequate? But if space is tight you will need to think other types that come with some safety limitations and MUST have appropriate chargers. For space tape up some old 1.5 batteries to see what you can fit in, a practice I use on my installations.
 
Alan McLennan said:
......... Can you all brush up on your battery knowledge cause I will be asking questions about them soon..
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You might find parts of this blog post helpful. If not, there's plenty of good advice on here (eg see Jon's post above)

riksrailway.blogspot.com

A quick introduction to batteries for model trains

Narrow gauge large scale model garden railway. Battery powered, radio controlled locomotives, some Bluetooth. Set in Cheshire UK in 1930s
riksrailway.blogspot.com riksrailway.blogspot.com


Rik
 
Alan McLennan said:
Well the two gearhead motors showed up, a 200rpm and a 2000rpm motor, so I ripped the crawler motor and belt drive out and made two new
cross member motor mounts, well the first one was bent 2mm steel and it was 1.5mm too wide, practice always comes in handy..
The one that fits and works is made along the same lines as the chassis itself, 6mm brass square section drilled and tapped to bolt the steel rails
and buffer beams to . I must say it now has a lot more room under the bonnet. Can you all brush up on your battery knowledge cause I will be asking questions about them soon..View attachment 333971
Click to expand...
Yep, as Jon and Rik have indicated, in essence there are two directions to go with battery power - NiMh and Li-po.

There are people on the forum who have experience of both of these. There is a tendency to do one or the other largely because of the very different charging regimes, and a crude summary of options goes like this.

NiMh - readily available from places like Strikealite or Vapextech in appropriate pack sizes. Strikealite will definitely make up bespoke packs. You need to use an intelligent charger designed for NiMh / NiCad battery charging. You can get LSD (low self discharge) in AA battery size rated at 2300 mAh - remember that, whatever size battery you use, in re-chargeable format each cell is 1.2v not 1.5v

Li-po - you need to buy from reputable sources. You get more bang for your buck in so much as greater power from a physically smaller pack. Charging is more technical, and if using multiple cells, you need to balance the cells in use as well as when being charged.

Whichever you choose, remember a fuse :angel:

Easiest to use now is a suitably rated polyswitch - PhilP PhilP can advise.

It only starts to get complex when you add the R/C - again, talk to PhilP PhilP or dunnyrail dunnyrail uses Fosworks
 
Jaycar sell poly switches , or ebay the voltage rating on them is a maximum rating go above it , they will fail. The current rating will be in milliamps , that is the maximum current that can flow through them before they open circuit, go above that they open , drop below they close again. For a bachmann percy i got 50V 3500mA off ebay , so the 9v i will run at is below 50v , so safe. The half to 1A the motor will pull is less than 3500mA(3.5A),so motor running will not open circut it, the cables and system should be ok to handle 3.5A . I could of gone a smaller rating , but thats what i found . Hope that helps
 
grizzmo said:
Jaycar sell poly switches , or ebay the voltage rating on them is a maximum rating go above it , they will fail. The current rating will be in milliamps , that is the maximum current that can flow through them before they open circuit, go above that they open , drop below they close again. For a bachmann percy i got 50V 3500mA off ebay , so the 9v i will run at is below 50v , so safe. The half to 1A the motor will pull is less than 3500mA(3.5A),so motor running will not open circut it, the cables and system should be ok to handle 3.5A . I could of gone a smaller rating , but thats what i found . Hope that helps
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Yeah, I forgot we were in different hemispheres :rolleyes:
 
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