My Hudswell 040 shunter scratch build

Alan McLennan said:
Stewie, would a 5A auto reset fuse be too high for a 2S LiPo battery in my Hudswell, lowest Jaycar have..
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It is not about the size / output of the battery, but what you expect to draw, so it is about the motor, I would use a 2 amp poly fuse myself.
 
Hi Alan as jimmy points out in his post, a lower current poly would be a better fit for your application than the 5a resettable fuse . The 5a could let too much current flow through other components before opening .Your battery would be safe either way. If you go onto ebay and type 2.5a polyswitch in the search ,the first option that came up for me is a nice 30v 2.5a poly for $3.45 inc post. From a seller at port macquarie.
 
grizzmo said:
Hi Alan as jimmy points out in his post, a lower current poly would be a better fit for your application than the 5a resettable fuse . The 5a could let too much current flow through other components before opening .Your battery would be safe either way. If you go onto ebay and type 2.5a polyswitch in the search ,the first option that came up for me is a nice 30v 2.5a poly for $3.45 inc post. From a seller at port macquarie.
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Hi Stewie, found it and ordered 2 , may checkout their BMS
 
Alan McLennan said:
Hi Stewie, found it and ordered 2 , may checkout their BMS
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Looks like a nice shop, shame its so far away. Hope its ok to hijack your thread with a question. I think you wrote you were a plumber , so I thought you would be the man to ask, to silver solder nickel silver rail ( peco) to brass which of the many silver solders and fluxs would work best for me ?
 
grizzmo said:
Looks like a nice shop, shame its so far away. Hope its ok to hijack your thread with a question. I think you wrote you were a plumber , so I thought you would be the man to ask, to silver solder nickel silver rail ( peco) to brass which of the many silver solders and fluxs would work best for me ?
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Slight thread drift, I have done exactly that. I used low melt silver solder with appropriate flux. You need to have the work scrupulously clean, best to use clean new wire wool. Do not expect a gap to be filled, the work needs to be in contact. I tend in that circumstance to use nails shoved into a heat block to hold things in place. Mix fresh flush, apply it to both sides heat with a small flame direct to joint (a brûlée kitchen flame thingy will work fine) let things get to red hot apply silver solder and be amazed as it spreads round into the joint. Let cool off for some time before moving.
 
grizzmo said:
Looks like a nice shop, shame its so far away. Hope its ok to hijack your thread with a question. I think you wrote you were a plumber , so I thought you would be the man to ask, to silver solder nickel silver rail ( peco) to brass which of the many silver solders and fluxs would work best for me ?
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Stewie, LOL, I never really had a preferred choice of silver solder flux, we just asked for silver solder flux and usually the only choice we had was what size jar do you want
and really, a lot of our work was new so the copper was clean, copper to copper I rarely used flux, only when using brass fittings did we use flux and sparingly as it was a waste and made the joint look crappy.
As for the silver solder, we mainly used 5% and on gas 15% which I think is sufficient, although I did buy some 45% to do the boiler on my Decauville which I haven't brazed up yet and have used some on some small jobs
and was very happy how it flowed. I think 15% 1.6mm sticks would be your go as the rod will heat up quickly and not melt your job in the mean time, with Cag CA602 flux or Comweld No 2 silver solder flux .
What are you looking to braze together after all that ? :think:
PS. don't go over board with the flux, less is more.
 
Alan McLennan said:
Stewie, LOL, I never really had a preferred choice of silver solder flux, we just asked for silver solder flux and usually the only choice we had was what size jar do you want
and really, a lot of our work was new so the copper was clean, copper to copper I rarely used flux, only when using brass fittings did we use flux and sparingly as it was a waste and made the joint look crappy.
As for the silver solder, we mainly used 5% and on gas 15% which I think is sufficient, although I did buy some 45% to do the boiler on my Decauville which I haven't brazed up yet and have used some on some small jobs
and was very happy how it flowed. I think 15% 1.6mm sticks would be your go as the rod will heat up quickly and not melt your job in the mean time, with Cag CA602 flux or Comweld No 2 silver solder flux .
What are you looking to braze together after all that ? :think:
PS. don't go over board with the flux, less is more.
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Thanks Alan , I thought you would be the man to ask. Years ago when we could get it here easily in Aus I bought the bits from peco to make turnouts , chairs , slide chairs ,sleepers and individual rail. Just one set of frog, wing rails and blades ( so I could copy and machine them myself ) . For some reason , not available nowadays , have had a order in for over a year now and have gotten 1 packet of chairs out of dozens of bits on order? Any way I am rambling.

I seen someone somewhere silver solder the frog rails onto a brass sheet . So then you can position the other rails on the brass sheet against that solid reference and soft solder it well and easily, without the lower heat affecting silver soldered bits. The sheet is trimmed around the pieces so its not obtrusive. A nice solid centre piece for the turnout.

I have silvered soldered many times in the past , but it has been over a decade since and I have no flux or rods now and seeing there are so many to choose from thought i would ask . I have a oxy/lpg set ( Oh how good it was to take the cig acetylene bottle back years ago never have to pay rental again). I braze regularly and use the oxy to heat steel for bending or bashing often.

Not sure how the turnouts would stand up to the elements , so I am planning on using them on the sheltered and inside sections.
 
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grizzmo said:
Thanks Alan , I thought you would be the man to ask. Years ago when we could get it here easily in Aus I bought the bits from peco to make turnouts , chairs , slide chairs ,sleepers and individual rail. Just one set of frog, wing rails and blades ( so I could copy and machine them myself ) . For some reason , not available nowadays , have had a order in for over a year now and have gotten 1 packet of chairs out of dozens of bits on order? Any way I am rambling.

I seen someone somewhere silver solder the frog rails onto a brass sheet . So then you can position the other rails on the brass sheet against that solid reference and soft solder it well and easily, without the lower heat affecting silver soldered bits. The sheet is trimmed around the pieces so its not obtrusive. A nice solid centre piece for the turnout.

I have silvered soldered many times in the past , but it has been over a decade since and I have no flux or rods now and seeing there are so many to choose from thought i would ask . I have a oxy/lpg set ( Oh how good it was to take the cig acetylene bottle back years ago never have to pay rental again). I braze regularly and use the oxy to heat steel for bending or bashing often.

Not sure how the turnouts would stand up to the elements , so I am planning on using them on the sheltered and inside sections.
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I have one turnout on my layout at the moment that I scratch built in much the same manner in R1 radius, the most trouble I hade was the rail tappers on the switch section and the pivot point
that I scrimped a bit too much on over hang, needs some more fine tunning but it works, good luck with your endeavors and keep us posted.
 
Alan McLennan said:
I have one turnout on my layout at the moment that I scratch built in much the same manner in R1 radius, the most trouble I hade was the rail tappers on the switch section and the pivot point
that I scrimped a bit too much on over hang, needs some more fine tunning but it works, good luck with your endeavors and keep us posted.
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Will do , yeah I wasn't sure on the tapers either. That's why I bought one set of blades and the frog pieces, plus one finished turnout, so I could just be lazy and copy them.
 
While meandering my way through the endless pages of Peckforton Light Railways page, I came across a article about naming his layout and looking for
a suitable place to base it off, got me thinking about what I could call my Railway. Seeing I wanted to base it off an old English light railway, Yorkshire came
to mind as a lot of my ancestors came from around that area as did my wife's Fathers Family some time later though. The Family members I decided to use were
from Horsforth and Barnard Castle, at the moment I'm sticking with Horsforth. He was a Stonemason and could of very well worked on the Bramhope Tunnel..
Any Kitchings out there ? :), I'd imagine there was a stone quarry nearby so that's a start on a feature I can add, anyone with other information about the area?
 
Alan McLennan said:
While meandering my way through the endless pages of Peckforton Light Railways page, I came across a article about naming his layout and looking for
a suitable place to base it off, got me thinking about what I could call my Railway. Seeing I wanted to base it off an old English light railway, Yorkshire came
to mind as a lot of my ancestors came from around that area as did my wife's Fathers Family some time later though. The Family members I decided to use were
from Horsforth and Barnard Castle, at the moment I'm sticking with Horsforth. He was a Stonemason and could of very well worked on the Bramhope Tunnel..
Any Kitchings out there ? :), I'd imagine there was a stone quarry nearby so that's a start on a feature I can add, anyone with other information about the area?
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One of the joys of basing it on a real location is being able to visit the route of the railway and imagine it being there. It turns out that my Tai Chi teacher's dad's house lies on the supposed trackbed on the approach to Bulkeley station ...... :eek::)

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
One of the joys of basing it on a real location is being able to visit the route of the railway and imagine it being there. It turns out that my Tai Chi teacher's dad's house lies on the supposed trackbed on the approach to Bulkeley station ...... :eek::)

Rik
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Trouble is Rik, To visit Horsforth from here it would take 25 hrs flying one way and cost $2,674.00 and I couldn't get back in time for tea at 6pm. That is quicker than my First Fleet rellies trip out here though.
So I'll have to stick to google visits to Horsforth.. Did you get planning approval from your teachers Dad? small world isn't it !.
 
Alan McLennan said:
.... Did you get planning approval from your teachers Dad? small world isn't it !.
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Unfortunately, he died before I had a chance. However, Don, our teacher, sometimes uses the conservatory at the house for sessions and so I have the satisfaction of performing "Cloud Hands" etc on the spot (without the cost of the air fare) :)

Rik
 
As Fred Dagg would say... Yeah G'day!. Well I finally got my 30 volt 2.5amp Poly fuses and have got a query before I start burning myself with hot things.
as I am planning on charging my 2S lipo on board through the balance plug and putting the fuse just after the XT60 plug from the battery, do I just need to be able
to turn the power off to the ESC at time of charging ?. I hope that makes sense. But I'm sure this will..
 
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