Roundhouse battery loco, pre-purchase questionnaire

Here you go..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Train-Radio-Battery-Steam-Loco-BR99-G-Scale-Additional-Weight-5-LGB-Metal-Wheels-/271860783632?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4c2a5a10
 
ntpntpntp said:
Actually mine's quite a decent hauler - certainly more than 3 coaches.

There's a german ebay shop offering an upgraded version of the NQD loco with metal wheels, better battery and R/C fitted and other things "sorted out". More expensive of course. Can't link to it while I'm @ work unfortunately, but if no-one else finds it for you I'll try and remember to post a link this evening.
Click to expand...

I think this is it from zenner-shop, the same people who do an upgraded version of the LGB ToyTrain Spremberger (Harlequin version):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Train-Radio-Battery-Steam-Loco-BR99-G-Scale-Additional-Weight-5-LGB-Metal-Wheels-/271860783632?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4c2a5a10
 
playmofire said:
I think this is it from zenner-shop, the same people who do an upgraded version of the LGB ToyTrain Spremberger (Harlequin version):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Train-Radio-Battery-Steam-Loco-BR99-G-Scale-Additional-Weight-5-LGB-Metal-Wheels-/271860783632?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4c2a5a10
Click to expand...
Is this the one? Says it's IR controlled which makes it a bit less attractive
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LGB-Steam-Locomotive-Battery-Battery-IR-Funk-Sound-Track-G-BR-99-/281574746936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418f29ab38

Rik
PS - In the blurb for this one they mention they can do it as a battery version
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zenner-diesel-locomotive-V60-red-Piko-drive-lane-G-analog-LGB-/271682811911?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f418eb807

PPS - Looks like they do a range of battery mods. This one looks like it uses a keyfob controller
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Train-Line-45-Wireless-Diesel-locomotive-Deutz-V3-Track-G-for-LGB/281580745822?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140328180637%26meid%3De5509d76ec574d38883051b7ead75d11%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D271682811911
 
I asked an ebay seller to test whether wheels rotate by sending DC battery power via rear sockets (the loco had MTS/DCC) and he confirmed it doesn't work. :-[

Have anyone of you tested it? Would you be able to test it and see if it actually works?

I am guessing it should be as simple (!) as taking the wires from LGB analog controller output and feeding it thru the socket.
 
Mobi said:
I asked an ebay seller to test whether wheels rotate by sending DC battery power via rear sockets (the loco had MTS/DCC) and he confirmed it doesn't work. :-[

Have anyone of you tested it? Would you be able to test it and see if it actually works?

I am guessing it should be as simple (!) as taking the wires from LGB analog controller output and feeding it thru the socket.
Click to expand...
For this to work:
You need enough voltage to 'wake up' the decoder electronics..
For what you want to do, the decoder needs removing..

There is also no guarantee the rear sockets have been connected if the decoder has been fitted 'after market'. - I ALWAYS connect the aux. sockets to track power when I fit decoders, but others may not.
 
OK, so probably it is not a a deal breaker then. Looks like I have to take the plunge and de-assemble the loco anyway.

What sort RC system would be best? I prefer a knob control (as in Playmobil 5258) where I should be able to set a speed and loco should hold it.
 
Mobi said:
OK, so probably it is not a a deal breaker then. Looks like I have to take the plunge and de-assemble the loco anyway.

What sort RC system would be best? I prefer a knob control (as in Playmobil 5258) where I should be able to set a speed and loco should hold it.
Click to expand...
I'm very happy with the Deltang system which is fairly cheap and effective - http://deltang.co.uk/
I use the Tx22 transmitter (which can control up to 12 locos independently) and am now using his latest Rx65b receiver/controllers which offer a range of additional features if you want to expand in the future.

There are others on here who I know prefer Timpdon or other control-knob systems.

Rik
 
PhilP said:
For this to work:
You need enough voltage to 'wake up' the decoder electronics..
For what you want to do, the decoder needs removing..

There is also no guarantee the rear sockets have been connected if the decoder has been fitted 'after market'. - I ALWAYS connect the aux. sockets to track power when I fit decoders, but others may not.
Click to expand...
Oh, and as said before.. Analogue operation may have been turned off in the decoder..
 
In that case, how do you turn it back on again?

Don't think I can perform that myself with my analog only controller!
 
Mobi said:
In that case, how do you turn it back on again?

Don't think I can perform that myself with my analog only controller!
Click to expand...
No, you would need someone with a DCC system to change the value of CV 29 for you...
BUT, if you were going battery RC it would not matter, as you would be taking the decoder out.

Not sure what part of the country you are in, but am sure there are people in the area who would point you in the right direction.. If you can, go and see a Garden Railway, or find a local club.. Most people will be willing to help a novice.
A local model / RC car supplier should have some knowledge, and be able to put you in touch with the right local people.

We may all be a bit mad, but we don't bite!! ;)
This lot IS addictive though, but it sounds like you are already infected!! :o ;) ;)
 
Some one in the forum who lives not far from me have offered me help :D

So now I need a loco and some courage

(and some good excuse to explain it to my wife why I am "wasting money" in railways again - especially when I shall be "destroying" a loco bought with my hard earned cash :) )

PS: I have now ordered LGB Ko diesel 0-6-0 from Ebay. This would be my guinea pig loco for RC conversion.
 
Not 'destroying', 'improving'.. After all it won't go on your track until you battery power it!
Enjoy!
;) :D ;D ;D
 
While I am waiting for the loco to arrive, I had a look at its internal diagrams.


http://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/22620-1.pdf

On page 5, there is wiring diagram.

Questions:

1. Why there are 4 wires going to motor?
2. Similarly, why there are 4 wires going to rear socket?
3. If I have to feed power via rear sockets, which wires I'd be connecting with battery?
4. What sort of connection/plug/wires I need to get to feed power via rear socket? Is it LGB proprietary format?


::)
 
Mobi said:
While I am waiting for the loco to arrive, I had a look at its internal diagrams.


http://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/22620-1.pdf


Questions:

1. Why there are 4 wires going to motor?

There are 2 for the motor and two for the skates

2. Similarly, why there are 4 wires going to rear socket?

I can only see two, red and black

3. If I have to feed power via rear sockets, which wires I'd be connecting with battery?

It depends, but if the loco goes backwards, all you need to do is swap the wires around to make it go forwards

4. What sort of connection/plug/wires I need to get to feed power via rear socket? Is it LGB proprietary format?

You can get the connectors from Maplins
Click to expand...
 
The four-wire connector to the gearbox/motor block consists of two wires from the power pickups (skates and wheel-back plungers, all connected together inside the motor block) plus two wires back to the motor. When you dismantle the loco and remove the 4-way plug, you'll see that the four pins on the gearbox are marked "gn", "bn", "ws" and "ge" - these are the German abbreviations for GRUN (green), BRAUN (brown), WEISS (white) and GELB (yellow). Though modern LGB locos tend to use all-black wiring looms with ready-fitted moulded plugs, the labelling of the pins still corresponds with the old colour code they have used in the past (and is still used for fitting aftermarket decoders) - the outer two pins (green and yellow) are the feeds to the motor, and the inner two are from the track power pickups (brown and white).

So, when you remove the decoder and replace it with your battery and control setup (whether that is to be a radio speed controller or a simple switch) you will need to connect your power supply/control output to the outer (motor) pins; nothing should be connected to the inner (track power) pins.

Jon.
 
CoggesRailway said:
Well done for taking the plunge!! You'll enjoy it and as long as your methodical you can't do much harm!
Click to expand...
Ditto
Every journey starts with a first step.

I can well remember the first time I dismantled a loco, I was really worried I'd never get it back together. And the first kit-bash I spray-painted took ages and needed several rub-downs and re-sprays - and even then it looked a bit ham-fisted.

After a while, stripping down a loco will be like a walk in the park and converting a loco to battery power will be something you can do in the dark wearing boxing gloves..... :o

Rik
 
Dark?? Boxing gloves???
:o

Nah, standing up in a hammock! - Oh, sorry that's something else!! ??? :o :o ;)
 
4. What sort of connection/plug/wires I need to get to feed power via rear socket? Is it LGB proprietary format?

You can get the connectors from Maplins
Click to expand...

What this connector cable is called? If I buy from Ebay, what do I search for? :-\
 
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