The EJ&KLR: Austrian narrow gauge in Cheshire

Re:The EJ&KLR project

Or try E-bay
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Thanks guys - I've done a plan with the R3 points and it looks SO much better, so will price that up... as for the rest of the track plan, I actually like the tightening of the apex when using R1s, and I don't think I can get the plan in without using them. Anyone experience of tightening a curve in this manner (my curves go R3, R2, R1) and using bogie stock? I do plan on getting a pair of OBB green bogie coaches at some point so want to make sure they'll be ok.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

jameshilton said:
Thanks guys - I've done a plan with the R3 points and it looks SO much better, so will price that up... as for the rest of the track plan, I actually like the tightening of the apex when using R1s, and I don't think I can get the plan in without using them. Anyone experience of tightening a curve in this manner (my curves go R3, R2, R1) and using bogie stock? I do plan on getting a pair of OBB green bogie coaches at some point so want to make sure they'll be ok.
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Transitional curves are a good idea. An alternative would be to have a look at flexible track to make an even smoother transition?

Any LGB bogie coaches (within reason) will go round R1 without probs - as to what they will look like? That's a matter of taste.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

jameshilton said:
my curves go R3, R2, R1
Click to expand...

Sure it wil look good and probably run better than going straight into R1s. Nice plan.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Looks good James, like me I'm guessing you're hoping the weather will pick up.
I've got some bogie coaches which run on R1 curves, they overhang but I can live with it because I haven't the space to use bigger ones, it's a personal preference thing.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Hi James. As others have said keep radius as big as you can but either way transitions are an excellent plan. On our railway we're lucky to have the tightest radius of 4'/1250mm (I think that's LGB R3?). We used Aristo-craft curves and used a length or tow of 8' radius, stepping down through 5' radius to 4' radius, a poor mans transition curve! Looks much more pleasing to the eye and doesn't really increase the real estate a curve takes up, i.e. the transition happening partly on what would have been straight track. :)
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Colin - yes definitely, got some clearance done but I need a full weekend at it to fully prepare the area, before I can mark out the route and begin earthworks!

John - it was looking at your layout that convinced me to use flowing curves and transitions where possible - although I've had to go right down to R1s in a couple of places.

Alan - thank you, yes even on the earlier plans transition curves looked so much more realistic :)
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

James love the plan i like the wiggly curves it give far more intrest than straight lines. but if your like me once its in operation you will see things you wish you had done differently. as i have found one little tweek allows 10 times the operational fun. one thing to think about that i would ad (but it would need isolating at both ends) would be to ad two more points and a short straight between the curves of the two loops on the left hand side that way you can have the loco change direction if you dont understand what i mean il draw a plan
Tony
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Thanks Tony, I understand what you mean - I'm not sure of the visuals though, and the gradient involved, as the climb down from the bridge continues around the curve. I'll be ordering the track in the next few weeks so will have a think about it.

Does anyone else look at the plan and think, with their experience/hindsight they'd add/remove/change anything?
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

I've tweaked the plan to use R3 points, and lengthened the loop slightly. Unfortunately this is messing with the gradients!

I want some candid advice really, for this to work I now need to drop at 2.5% from the 'south' end of the station (assuming up is north on the plan) to the bridge site where the line goes under - this loses 6.15cm.
From the north end of the station loop the line climbs at 2.5% to 21cm above the lower track at the bridge point.
The loop is assumed level, at 6.15cm above the lowest point.
The other side of the bridge drops at 2.2% to the low point.

This means the station area and the 1.2m long bridge are the only level sections of line, and that the majority of the loop is climbing or falling at about 2.5%.

What effect will this have on locomotive performance? I'll be running LGB electrically, track powered locomotives initially on analog (later digital). Typical size will be U-tank, possibly a Rugen 0-8-0 or Frank S in future. Trains 3 short coaches or 2 bogie coaches long (most of the time!). Will I get surging on the down grades, will I wear out motors on the climbs? Will I find the rain/wet weather makes the line un-usable? Should I go with something on the level if this is the space I have to play with?

Please - honest experience welcomed!

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Re:The EJ&KLR project

any gradent, is going to afect how locos perform, its a decacte balansceing act..
on the bright side, if you find a locos struggling, BUY A BIGGER ONE:bigsmile:
testing.. it HAS A PURPOSE
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Re:The EJ&KLR project

Thanks Mike - I want to get the benefit of years of experience before purchasing any further track - I guess I'm most interested in people who do run a gradient, what are the downsides, does wet track make a difference, and things like that...

Unfortunately I'm building the railway at my parents home - it was to be a joint project with my father before he passed away at the beginning of the year. I guess anyone who's experienced that will appreciate that it's tough - I want to do the right thing and I've not got much experience of grades on models, as my 4mm stuff has always been on the level :)

Whatever advice people can share is really appreciated! :)
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

jameshilton said:
Thanks Mike - I want to get the benefit of years of experience before purchasing any further track - I guess I'm most interested in people who do run a gradient, what are the downsides, does wet track make a difference, and things like that...

Unfortunately I'm building the railway at my parents home - it was to be a joint project with my father before he passed away at the beginning of the year. I guess anyone who's experienced that will appreciate that it's tough - I want to do the right thing and I've not got much experience of grades on models, as my 4mm stuff has always been on the level :)

Whatever advice people can share is really appreciated! :)
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ahh. experiansce.. yes..
if its wet. stuff that normally gose up, will struggle..
only run your track cleaner downhill...(think about it)
steamlocos, will not like hills..
bewear the drawstring effect when hauling long trains
its best to mess about, with a peacse off wood, testing what you think is a asceptable gradent.. ,i setteled for a drop off 10 inches over 15ft..
its not advisable to put point on a grade, always try to get them level,
what im trying to get across, is.. go get a peasce off wood, and try it out .. its the only way ,really,
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is that ok:bigsmile:
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Yes Mike - thank you - there will be 'testing' but I'm sat at my house doing the maths, and planning the layout - 50 miles away from the stock and track!

Paul - that has given me some confidence, thank you!
I'll try and re-jig the location of the bridge I think to give me slightly more length of run to get the height gain.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

James believe me with the locos your using and only two coaches you will hardly notice the difference in speed, take a look at my gradients there is a fine line between some small locos making it up a long hill with 5 or 6 box cars and one more and it spins the wheels, i dont know the maths of my hills but i have a figure eight section ive just put in (not on my videos) where the track rise's 9" in the space of a 34 circle using rad 3 curves and everything copes with it so far with no problem pulling up to 10 double bogie wagons where the last wagon is under the bridge and the loco is on top
one other thing i dont thing your hills are long enough that even with a really long train all the train would be going up hill at the same time. in other words when the loco is going up hill with a long train only a few wagons are on the hill the others would be on the flat or going down the previous hill.

I know what i mean
Tony
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Tony many thanks... your grade works out at 4% so that gives me some confidence - as to get to 25cm clearance from the station top point is 4%, and I was proposing to make this only to 20cm, and drop some 5cm on the curve at the bottom of the station.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

couple of other thoughts
if there is a chance you might run some Bachmann narrow gauge locos some need 9" clearance under bridges etc so if you can build that into yours it might help later and if there is a chance you might want to double your track later think about making the bridge wider


Tony
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Thanks Tony - I'm aiming for 25cm clearance, as we do have a Bachmann 3-truck Shay (Dad's final purchase) that we want to run.
 
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