This is thread is going on for almost 3-4 years, incl construction of my house (i am a own contractor so i do all myself).
The end/exame is near!
I bought a loco to play with, some more will follow, to test my tracks.
To build prototypical scale, nearly impossible regarding locos.
Cars and wagons can be done, tracks also.
For whatever reason i build a lot of different scales, all close to and from proto to 1at32 or g scale.
Turnouts, scissor crossovers, crossovers even a 5 way switch ect.
Bottem ;ine if you read the whole thread, they all look good and to my suprise they work also?!?!?!?!?
Yes they work, sort or less
Between the track i keep 45mm.
The catch for good running with loco:
Keep gaps of 2.5mm to 3mm
Wooden ties with soft wood: after THREE years of time in my climat left somewhere in a corner to rot, take a look at the pictures!
With hard wood i did also the same, left in a corner to rot, grass was growing over it, how orse can you make it for wood?
For glue i tried several brands and types of putty/glue, one is sticking out very firm: polymax hi tack (WHITE ONE!!!!!!!!!)
tHE REST NO.
Back to some testing:
On some other treads in this million-dollar forum, i posted some more stupid questions, it all sums up here.
For what i want....yes.
To my suprise some "emplacements" did work, some worked for 80% (attached photo's) and some where a complete disaster.
I learned a lot, i made mistakes and share them in the hope it will benefit you, i also willing to share my succes, patience please, nothing is conclusive ...yet.
Frogs must not be flange bearing and have a gap of 2.5mm just like the safty rail.
45mm between rails and 39mm of total clearance between check/safty rails, frog.
40mm or even 41mm clearance can be done, meaning a gap of 2.5 or 2mm.
2.5 to 3mm gap is i think the way to go(for me it is a 3mm gap)
Below 2mm is just to tight and will give running problems (also i am active on a rail alone build forum)
My triple 3 way switch:
It run nice but not at "high"speed it was meant to run at 60km an hour on scale.....15kmh was good.
It run on almost all directions back and forward.
I put some "fillers" to hold the points open for good guidance
Hmmmm yeah, derailment, to tight.
For prototypical estheticus as you can see, this must be done better.
I have a thread somewhere on this million-dollar forum that is dedicated to experiment with moving the points/blades.
The succes was with some really cheap aliexpress tt robot engines and a stupid switch.
Battery on it with a bipolar switch to throw the points.
My luck:
I ran into a project at work to renew a industrial kettle house....switches and boxes enough.(big smile)
I am going to solder some connectors and cable, but that is a future project, i am plowing on in the time that i have...
.
So i can take the electronics inside when i not using them, or all is set right, or move to the other emplacements.
I am planning to make 2 or three switch boxes that can be "universal" use around my track.
Slowly i am getting there and can pull a long nose to that expensive industry...
Next testing subject my 5way switch, my siccor crossover was to tight all over----->disaster.
Thanks for reading and answering with all your tips and tricks to all my stupid questions and ideas, i will certainly keep you posted/updated.
Final (sum up) on how to do it yourself will come also...after all is working, believe me you can do it aswel.
With best regards Igor
