Very basic question about soldering problems.....

Zerogee said:
This leads to another question, how small is "small enough" for electronics work? Do you actually want the finest pointed bit you can get, or is a slightly bigger one better as you can transfer the necessary heat faster?
For example, given a choice between a 0.5mm point and a 1.2mm one, which would you use for, say, wiring to decoder solder pads?

Jon.
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The size of the tip selected would depend on the size of the pad to be soldered.

This may give some guidance.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Tips-for-choosing-the-correct-soldering-iron-tip/
 
Before re-profiling the tip of the soldering iron, try using a file brush (brass bristles), or a suede brush (same bristles but softer) to remove any old solder off the iron's tip.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Only posts #25 and #28 allude to plated tips. Bare copper tips eat away, and are hard to keep nicely tinned.

Even inexpensive irons can use plated tips. Higher quality ones always do.

Get a good iron, it will last you for years, and I recommend a temperature controlled one.

Greg
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I would second Greg's thoughts about a quality 'iron..

Mine can be on (up to) six hours a day..

I had one unit fail, just outside the 12 months.. Maplin were not doing that model, but allowed the refund against a different (better?) model, which was also on offer at the time..
A win for me, as I swapped a dead unit and about £13 for a (best part) £80 (full retail) one. :rock::clap::clap:
 
Just an addendum to this thread...... the best single piece of advice in it has proved to be chucking the lead-free solder in the bin and getting some proper stuff that actually works!
One roll of good old leaded solder from Rapid, and the job has suddenly become an order of magnitude easier! There is still a lot I need to learn about neat and tidy work with the iron (no domestic chores jokes please), but for anyone else still struggling with the basics I would highly recommend following the same course..... after all, if God hadn't meant us to use lead in stuff then He wouldn't have invented it in the first place..... :rofl:

Thanks again to all those who offered help and advice in this thread. :)

Jon.
 
Lead free solder's first major use in the UK was for end-feed and solder ring copper pipe fittings so that a potable water supply was ensured - at least that's as I remember it. It certainly has different characteristics to tradition solder. I wonder if you can still buy Grade D solder for wiping lead joints?
 
trammayo said:
Lead free solder's first major use in the UK was for end-feed and solder ring copper pipe fittings so that a potable water supply was ensured - at least that's as I remember it. It certainly has different characteristics to tradition solder. I wonder if you can still buy Grade D solder for wiping lead joints?
Click to expand...
Yea, and it works quite well in those situations (well, I've never had to wipe a lead joint; remember seeing it done as a kid) - never tried it for electrical soldering though, and on Jon's recommendation, I think the answer is 'NOT' :swear::swear:
 
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