What happened at your workbench today?

As long as you can use a paint brush, and wipe with a cloth, you've got all the skills it takes :) Like Paul says, it's just gathering the guts to give it a go for the first time.

I use artist's acrylics, the type that come in the larger squeezy tubes. When the plan is to wipe most of it off, it works out a lot cheaper than the little Humbrol tins. Mix together a few shades of browns, greys, blacks; thin with a bit of water and dab onto the wagon. I tend to work with about half a inch square at a time. Put it on thick and wipe it off. Don't worry about running out of a particular colour mix, muck is very rarely consistent. I use blacker shades on roof to make up for the greater amount of soot. Browner mixes lower down for mud and rust washing off the track.

I started on cheap OO gauge stuff that I had repainted anyway. The first couple didn't turn out perfect but you can only get better with practice :) Plus, the paint is water based so it comes off with a good scrub if you're too unhappy ;)

Have you tried the salt method to simulate rusted wagons?
One method of weathering the bogies and chassis is to spray onto a piece of cardboard in front of the wagon and let the overspray hit the wagon, I have not tried it myself but have seen the end result.
 
.. B*gg*r-A*l!!
Spent today queuing to get in, and queuing to get out.. :rolleyes:

Still. At least the weather was pleasant for it..
 
As Ricky, Paul and Jon (a 60's rock group?;)) say - all you need is courage! Here's my latest efforts from a couple of weeks ago. While far from perfect I think they're a huge improvement over stock.

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First the wagons were disassembled and all the plastic parts were give a good wash with mild dish soap. The "wood" decks were painted and a few details were picked out. I used a brushed on wash of very thinned enamels (actually some thinner with a small brush load of paint mixed in), followed by some brushed on chalks for weathering. If the wash was a bit heavy I brushed on some straight thinner to lighten it up. I hit the wagons with a spray of Testor's Dull Cote once I was reasonably satisfied. Unlike acrylics, enamels are permanent. So you might want to start with acrylics which you have some chance of scrubbing off. Just try it on on old wagon, You'll be surprised how easy it is to get decent results.

Next up for me are these silo wagons.

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Making up step hangers (brass strip, solder, 0.8mm drill) for the latest (final!) IOM saloon coach, working off one I have already madeStep hangers.jpg:

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So I finally completed my building inspired from YouTube by “Creative Mom”, mostly made from scrap cardboard with just cotton wool for the smoke and coffee stirers for the window surrounds. A rare picture taken outside, it lives in the house so note this will not survive weather, but something similar would work indoors perhaps as a half relief or full building on an industrial location. Somewhat crude compared by most that we see on here but it is what it is a quick keep me occupied project.
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The weather(ing) is SOOOOO tempting!!!! You guys make it look so easy!!

It really is, and if your that scared of damaging stock, use water based paint that will wash off, just in case you change your mind.

mots good to start with something with some moulded detail, like wood grain or rivets.
i weathered a good amount of OO stock, but can’t yet bring myself to weather g scale

dan
 
It really is, and if your that scared of damaging stock, use water based paint that will wash off, just in case you change your mind.

mots good to start with something with some moulded detail, like wood grain or rivets.
i weathered a good amount of OO stock, but can’t yet bring myself to weather g scale

dan
I can see once this is over and we are both nights, and I haven’t broken any of the panel ;) , we will have to have a chat ;)

Dark field grey wash with a bit of black in places then a rust wash inside and on the bottom inch or so. It just takes away the jet black starkness.
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As part of my security check at the CFR I was able to collect a few tools and mater to make A start on two ModelTown buildings, namely the Station Masters house and Station building.
After checking that all parts were there, I gave them a wash in warm soapy water. After drying I did a dry assembly to ensure all parts went together correctly. I’ve now drilled and temporarily pinned the buildings prior to taking them apart to paint them. Once painting has been completed I will reassemble the buildings using the glue and pin method. Once the paint and glue has thoroughly hardened I will weather the buildings, I will also add extra details.
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Front and rear of the station building drying out.
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Station Masters house dry assembled.
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Station Masters house and Station building butted up together.
 
Today's work bench effort, start of a loading dockIMG_20200410_115931.jpg
 
The conundrum.
Automated Rack Railway Conundrum - G Scale Central

View attachment 264082

Board A, run of the mill debounce circuit.
Board B, run of the mill DPDT Latching Relay circuit.
Board C, specific designed optocoupler circuit.

View attachment 264083

How it operates.
Contact 1a, dual purpose, operates one side of the Relay to configure Contact 2 to 2a, powered signal converted by the optocoupler for the connection to the Feedback Module and carries out the Automatic Drive Functions as set up with the Navigator.

Contact 3a, dual purpose, operates the other side of the Relay to configure Contact 2 to 2b, powered signal converted by the optocoupler for the connection to the Feedback Module and carries out the Automatic Drive Functions as set up with the Navigator.

Contact 2a, (as set by Contact 1a) and connected to Reset COM/NO on the relay, to Feedback Module, activate Automatic Switch command 1 to operate switch point motor to thrown, also carries out the Automatic Drive Functions as set up with the Navigator.

Contact 2b, (as set by Contact 3a) and connected to Set COM/NC on the relay, to Feedback Module, activate Automatic Switch command 2 to operate switch point motor to normal, also carries out the Automatic Drive Functions as set up with the Navigator.

4 Automatic Drive commands and 2 Automatic Switch commands.

The temporary space in the Conservatory allocated as a workshop, board for the "conundrum" salvaged from a neighbour who was throwing out a bathroom cabinet.

Still have a couple lengths left, wonder what I'll do with them!
View attachment 264084

Thanks again for the info. Would it be possible to post a copy in the original "conundrum" thread so if anyone browses it in future they have the problem and a solution all in one place? (Hope that would be ok)
 
Have you tried the salt method to simulate rusted wagons?


I've not but I've looked it up and it looks like an interesting technique that I will be having a play around with over the next few days. Definitely very effective for rust in nooks and crannies on frames and steel plating. I would also like to have a go at seeing if it could be used to show an old livery starting to show through flaking paint on a wooden wagon.
 
Detailed painting then began:-
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Undercoat has been applied to doors and window frames. Some stonework has been picked out.
 
Dismantling a loco to fit auto couplers...

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