What happened at your workbench today?

Tanker man said:
Later picture, as you can see on the left, there are the two types of LGB hooks, top the current one and below it, the one I have printed. You can see that there is no way of fixing the modern hook to the old style drawbar, as it has a grooved channel.
The way I have fixed the printed hook is to remove the ‘axel’ bar and drill a 3 mm hole in its place, then by careful eye, drill the channel in the drawbar and push a short length of brass tube through to fix it. A drop of super glue secures the rod. There is a ‘pip’ on the print to take a spring to keep the bar up to the loop, I found an old pen spring to be the exact size to do the job ( luckily, I have another to do the 2nd tanker!) .
Despite having reasonably level track, I do find that long trains can come uncoupled and as I don’t generally do any shunting on my railway, the double hooks are more of an advantage than a hindrance .
DaveView attachment 281799
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I did the same with 3D printed hooks. Only problem is they can't move side to side like the newer ones, so linking two two axle trucks with the same old couplers means the wheels don't run true i.e axles not perpendicular to the track. I adapted new hook and loop couplers by chopping off most of the grooved channel (there are holding lines that show where to cut with the Dremel). Then screw on the new couplings with some packing styrene sheet.

Geoff
 
Tanker man said:
Later picture, as you can see on the left, there are the two types of LGB hooks, top the current one and below it, the one I have printed. You can see that there is no way of fixing the modern hook to the old style drawbar, as it has a grooved channel.
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The easiest way to make it more compatible with current stock is to change out the single axle trucks. I did this to a boxcar I had with the old hook & loop couplers like those on your tank car. I was getting frustrated with the bad coupling action of the originals. The trucks are very easy to change. A set of them (2) can be had for $11 here in the States. The LGB part no. is 67302.
 
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I did find a file on Thingiverse for the later trucks but decided to go with the hooks first, if I have problems, I can always print them and change them out. I have mainly rad 3 track and haven’t experienced a problem so far.
Dave
 
phils2um said:
The easiest way to make it more compatible with current stock is to change out the single axle trucks. I did this to a boxcar I had with the old hook & loop couplers like those on your tank car. I was getting frustrated with the bad coupling action of the originals. The trucks are very easy to change. A set of them (2) can be had for $11 here in the States. The LGB part no. is 67302.
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Fully agree, trouble is they are not always so easily obtained in UK though I expect Grootspur or someone may work. Have found the odd set here and there at shows and am now down to just 2 vehicles with those couplers and a few in the spares box.
 
Word reached The Management that the two old biddies in the back seat of the Goose had complained about the overly casual dress of the one legged driver.

Management provided him with a company jacket, and told him to wear a shirt and tie - the yellow T-shirt had to go :eek:

For the sake of the squeamish, I can confirm that no speakers were harmed by the installation of this driver :devil::devil:

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Rhinochugger said:
Word reached The Management that the two old biddies in the back seat of the Goose had complained about the overly casual dress of the one legged driver.

Management provided him with a company jacket, and told him to wear a shirt and tie - the yellow T-shirt had to go :eek:

For the sake of the squeamish, I can confirm that no speakers were harmed by the installation of this driver :devil::devil:

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That old biddy in the brown coat gets everywhere, she is in at least a couple of my coaches.
 
The latest buildings for the CFR have been taken outside for a trial placement exercise:-
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The buildings will remain outside pending placement on the railway. There is no available space in the workshop to store them.
 
When I moved to the nits a workbench was a real early requirement. I had some left over home made draws from a bookcase bottom that was cut down for this house during the move. These were put under some melamine which has my Lathe, Vertical Drill, Mill and sundry other junk on top. But the draws were somewhat short and a good bit of space was wasted behind them, they were also just held in place by gravity. Ideal in their original setting on the floor but not good in this situation though to be fair I have never dropped the lot on the floor. Thus a plan was hatched to put decent sliding runners in place and add a bit to the rear of the draw maximising the space. Here is a pic showing the mess of the 1 draw, all those lovely Lathe and precision measuring tools in a jumbled draw, hangs head in shame!
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So I built a rear add on and fitted the BnQ 400mm runners, needed some filling to get things matched up but some correct width timber presented it self in one of the sheds. Now also you can see some slightly better order in the chaos. Just how many Micrometers does a guy need? That black plastic box on the left also has one. Mostly bought cheep at shows and boot sales it should be added
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The next draw to be attacked on the right, this will be a little bit tricker to do but I will persevere. And yes that is an empty Hafixs bottle sat there to remind me to get some more. Though for the moment I have a good supply of 806 which is pretty similar.
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Progress is being made on my "O" gauge post-war type layout. Last night I experimented with scenery. Keep in mind that scenery on a typical post-war layout is more caricature in nature.

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Looks good, especially the train information board.

Heve you ever thought of joining the HRCA (The Hornby Railway Collectors Association)?
 
Having drawn an entrance sign for Gernise End Station, the other day, I decided to use the corporate logo that I had created to make a couple of platform signs for the yet to be built platform. I created the sign boards/posts from plasticard sheet/strip. I grained to 'woodwork' by drawing a razor saw sideways along it. I have drilled holes in the bases of the posts in anticipation of inserting wire pegs with which to plant them into the platform surface.

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I have mocked up a picture of what they should look like in situ by leaning one against the fence on the goods loading dock and placing a strip of hedge behind.

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David
 
playmofire said:
Looks good, especially the train information board.

Heve you ever thought of joining the HRCA (The Hornby Railway Collectors Association)?
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No but I will look into it.
 
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