Accucraft 3-cylinder Shay safety valve fail......................

I was also going to suggest the impact driver idea, but wondered if it might be a little heavy handed for everything else that's still attached to the loco?

My other thought is how is the dome's saddle attached to the boiler cladding? Just thinking out loud, but if it's soldered, it might be easier to remove it entirely with the dome still attached, then you can deal with it off the loco. You might have room to have a go with a vice and mole grips then. Not the cleanest of methods, but hopefully easier to put right then taking and angle grinder to it?
 
I suggest you attempt to purchase a replacement dome cover and valve. If successful don't worry about damaging or even destroying the originals when removing them. If not then run the loco particularly carefully, from your earlier statements about over pressurised model boilers, there appears to be minimal risk. Alternatively keep an attractive shelf queen.
 
Gtarling said:
Tac - you have mentioned 'penetrating oil' several times, but what actual product are you using? Only asking, as so many seem to think that WD40 is penetrating oil - it's not.

G.
Click to expand...

I've been using the water dispersant, WD-40, since the late 1950's. The product I'm using is called penetrating oil - it says so right there on the can.
 
Neil Robinson said:
I suggest you attempt to purchase a replacement dome cover and valve. If successful don't worry about damaging or even destroying the originals when removing them. If not then run the loco particularly carefully, from your earlier statements about over pressurised model boilers, there appears to be minimal risk. Alternatively keep an attractive shelf queen.
Click to expand...

So far, Accucraft.com over in Union City have yet to answer my emails. I've been running and building live steam models for over fifty years, so I'm an unlikely candidate to try and blow up a boiler. We don't have shelf queens in this house, attractive or otherwise - if it's there, it has to justify the pretty large outlay by working.
 
tac foley said:
I've been using the water dispersant, WD-40, since the late 1950's. The product I'm using is called penetrating oil - it says so right there on the can.
Click to expand...
If it's marked as penetrating oil, then that should be fine. :) Nobody has mentioned it so far, but do you have any freezer spray? Several freeze/heat cycles may well serve to help loosen it - certainly worth a try if you have access to some.

G.
 
With a little bit of luck, after all this chatter and time, the penetrating oil may yet actually do its stuff :think::think:
 
Gtarling said:
Tac - you have mentioned 'penetrating oil' several times, but what actual product are you using? Only asking, as so many seem to think that WD40 is penetrating oil - it's not.

G.
Click to expand...
WD40 is a brand name, like a lot of products, and often people only associate with a single aspect:

Rust Penetrant Spray | WD-40 Rust Release Penetrant | WD-40

Get deep into the crevices, threads and seams to break up rust and corrosion with the WD-40 rust penetrant spray. This 11 oz can is equipped with a flexible straw that holds its shape so you can apply rust penetrant spray in those hard-to-reach places.
www.wd40.com www.wd40.com

wd40.in

WD-40 Products - WD40 India

WD-40 Multi-Use Product (170g) protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything.
wd40.in wd40.in
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Ah, I forgot... we don't see that "specialist" product as much here, Liquid Wrench has a much more long term history, and everyone stocks it... especially the foaming stuff.

Thanks Jimmy.

LT408.png
Click to expand...
This thread is like a great mystery novel. How will it end? I find myself breathlessly waiting to see if Tac will be able to remove the dome without damaging it. Honestly, this is the first thread I check for new posts. Breathlessly might be a bit of an overstatement.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Ah, I forgot... we don't see that "specialist" product as much here, Liquid Wrench has a much more long term history, and everyone stocks it... especially the foaming stuff.

Thanks Jimmy.

LT408.png
Click to expand...
I have to say that I do rather like the US labelling. 'Liquid Wrench' is far more graphic than 'penetrating oil', as are things like 'Gorilla Glue'. :):):)
 
A little 'niche' for the UK...

How often do you need to glue Gorilla's, in the UK?
:wondering:

Though I doubt they could use the phrase "does exactly what it says on the tin".
 
If limescale is causing the problem, what about using white vinegar?
 
trammayo said:
If limescale is causing the problem, what about using white vinegar?
Click to expand...
You'd need to be careful though, it's a bit acidic, so may damage the paint. I know angle grinders have been mentioned, but I'm hoping that's an extreme last resort
 
All, thanks.

I'm NOT using WD-40. I'm using penetrating oil.

1646388216528.png

I've tried white vinegar - the very first stop on this journey.

I don't have any freezer spray.

The use of a mini angle-grinder was to put a couple of flats on the almost solid dome to get a wrench onto.

I'm familiar with tools - my dad had me rebuilding motorcycle engines since about ten y/o. I can tell a wrench from a screwdriver without any problems. I help run a 7 1/4" gauge live-steam railway, so tools and I are not strangers. I use a lathe, I build stuff and repair stuff.

However, this has gotten me stuck and it is about as annoying as it can get.
 
tac foley said:
All, thanks.

I'm NOT using WD-40. I'm using penetrating oil.

View attachment 295829

I've tried white vinegar - the very first stop on this journey.

I don't have any freezer spray.

The use of a mini angle-grinder was to put a couple of flats on the almost solid dome to get a wrench onto.

I'm familiar with tools - my dad had me rebuilding motorcycle engines since about ten y/o. I can tell a wrench from a screwdriver without any problems. I help run a 7 1/4" gauge live-steam railway, so tools and I are not strangers. I use a lathe, I build stuff and repair stuff.

However, this has gotten me stuck and it is about as annoying as it can get.
Click to expand...
Perseverance will win out in the end Tac, sorry my advice thoughts all been covered along the line.
 
tac foley said:
All, thanks.

I'm NOT using WD-40. I'm using penetrating oil.

View attachment 295829

I've tried white vinegar - the very first stop on this journey.

I don't have any freezer spray.

The use of a mini angle-grinder was to put a couple of flats on the almost solid dome to get a wrench onto.

I'm familiar with tools - my dad had me rebuilding motorcycle engines since about ten y/o. I can tell a wrench from a screwdriver without any problems. I help run a 7 1/4" gauge live-steam railway, so tools and I are not strangers. I use a lathe, I build stuff and repair stuff.

However, this has gotten me stuck and it is about as annoying as it can get.
Click to expand...
Having come across engineering problems that have "stumped" me, suddenly it falls in to place and in your case you will wonder why you could not undo it.

A thought, though you may tried it is earlier, with whatever you are using to turn the dome apply turning pressure, then try tapping the dome with a small hammer (at thread height), this may take 2 people, or you may have a way of securing the loco whilst doing this.
 
Tac: "Ouch!"
Mrs T: "What?"
Tac: "That's not what I meant.."
Mrs T : "But you said, 'When I nod my head, you hit it'!"
:giggle:
 
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