GARDEN RAILWAY CONSTRUCTION: TOP FIVE MYTHS EXPOSED ABOUT ELECTRIC POWER OUTDOOR

Tony Walsham said:
For those that don't believe there any DCC fans looking for direct R/C of DCC decoders. Battery powered even. ;)

https://www.gscalecentral.net/index.php?topic=299347.0
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As the person who started the thread on DRC-300 alternatives which you link to above, Tony, (which actually makes for good reading, as a lot of very useful developments came out of that lengthy discussion) I'd just refer you back to my previous post in this thread - yes, it would be nice to have access to one or two RC-DCC locos for those times when DCC track power isn't available, but this is in no way a search for a "replacement" for track-powered DCC..... I have no intention whatsoever of converting more than a couple out of my current stable of 40+ DCC/sound locos, and even those will remain switchable between track and battery ..... ;)

Jon.
 
Gavin Sowry said:
I never use abrasives, once you start that, you leave scratches in the rail, and that allows dirt to build up.
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I'm thinking that this is worth a try. A friend of mine used to keep his track polished and used to wipe it clean with a spot of oil at the end of every session. I've used abrasives over the years and the railhead is quite scratched so as I'm rebuilding its the ideal time to fettle the track.
Another method is to buy an lgb cleaning block and put your mates name on it. Clearly its a pathetic con, but its worked for me!
 
A quick question: do people consider that the LGB cleaning block, excellent as it is, falls into the category of "abrasives" or not? Clearly it IS technically an abrasive, but a very, very, VERY fine one!
I'm assuming that when folks here talk of abrasives for track cleaning, they generally mean slightly more aggressive things like fine wet-and-dry.....?

Jon.

[just updated to remove the Donald Duck impression - "qwuick"! ;) ]
 
Zerogee said:
A qwuick question: do people consider that the LGB cleaning block, excellent as it is, falls into the category of "abrasives" or not? Clearly it IS technically an abrasive, but a very, very, VERY fine one! Jon.
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As it is not using a chemical to remove dirt and oxidization and is abrading it then it is an abrasive, even if a fine one. It will be causing, even if fine, scratches that will fill with dirt/gunk/etc. For example T-Cut is a very fine abrasive although it can be used to provide what appears to be a polished surface in paint and plastic. Max.
 
Abrasive :D Black & Decker Mouse

http://youtu.be/vKYh3rSNlTE
 
I have a battery van with a speed controller and RC for the odd times i run a train without the track power or if I vist lines without track power, I have one Stainz that I've stripped the pickups from and use that with the battery van, it has a 7 ah 12v sla in the van.
 
maxi-model said:
it is not helpful when this sort or absolutist stuff is posted >:(
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I absolutely agree :D
Shoemenders ???
 
maxi-model said:
It's becoming quite common for live steam operators to have or consider to start including a battery powered loco or two (usually diesel outline) amongst their fleet. Why battery ? Most live steamers' lines are 32 mm (represented by a society with 4,500 members) and were never configured for track power and even if it were an "0" gauge Class 37 might look a little incongruous chugging around with all the 16 mm and 7/8 ths stuff ;)

Having said that there are a lot of us increasingly coming round to live steam who have come from a 45 mm/DC start and having a battery loco is an easier proposition when incorporating with or converting our "start up" stock. I have a GRS L&B 2-6-2 Exe converted to battery for those lazy days when I just want to bung something on and just watch it run.......after the obligatory minor track debris removal session. It's amazing what little stones and presents the members of the crow family and their pidgeon friends will chuck around here. Max.
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Yes exactly back in my 'Live Steam period'. I had a couple of battery R/c N'G Diesels, for the times when I got fed up with running live steam. So i could sit back for a while and simple watch the trains go by
 
I run a battery loco before every running session. My routine is: brush track with soft broom or hand brush to remove most leaves and debris, use cleaning block on any obvious stubborn muck, clear point blades of grit with a small screwdriver, run battery diesel to make sure all is well, then thoroughly clean track using cleaning loco if running track power (or just start prepping locos if running live steam).
 
Garden railways are part of real life, and there is no one correct way to live life. The needs of life vary and long may that be the way. And so too our choice of way to run our railway and the setting we choose to place it in. Each way is the right way for it's owner.
Take my railway for example, under lots of trees I wipe (clean) track down with a damp sponge before running even when I'm only running my live steamers. I use rail clamps either side of turnouts and Aristo-craft screwed rail joiners all with no cooperslip or graphite grease and still have good track power conductivity after over 9 years. But then I also have lots of extra track feeds as a belt and braces approach. ???
Is my way the right way and the only way - heck no, just happens to be the way that suits me. :)
 
Oddly only last Saturday we started to lift track on our main 16mm local group layout, with the intention of catering for live track. Basically by removing the brass board section end sleepers and replacing them with machined and adjustable Tufnell based ones. However we will still have the slight problem associated with oil on the rail, in the main the result of oil spewed from over lubed steam loco's. This of course even creates problems for some small lightweight battery powered stock. It's easy to fix on a raised accessible layout with quick wipe over, but I could never see me doing this in the garden on a ground based track. My own fully insulated 45/32mm all raised garden track runs all modes except DCC. Six years down the line (no pun intended) it generally provides faultless running with standard fishplates assembled with a touch of grease. However to the purist my idea of running on LGB/Piko nice brass track (as advised by the guys on G Scale Mad when I first started) is somewhat controversial. As is running 78 16mm and G sometimes together. No one rule suits everyone and is to my mind part of what makes garden railways so much fun. Now if only I could get rid of the huge oak tree towering over some of it....
 
Enginehouse said:
However to the purist my idea of running on LGB/Piko nice brass track (as advised by the guys on G Scale Mad when I first started) is somewhat controversial. As is running 7\8 16mm and G sometimes together.
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Our local area group of the 16 mm NGM, Northamptonshire, has a fair few lines running Code 332/45 mm. Little sign of dissent here. Quite fun when you have a steam up with 1:32/1:22.5/1:20.3/16 mm/7/8 ths all running together. Live steam, battery and even DC (on my line). It seems to be a growing theme probably down to those of us "infiltrators" that started out "G" and broke out of DC/DCC. And we all keep a loco or two and stock that can be swiftly re-gauged to 32 mm when visiting :D Max.
 
Going back to the original topic it is my view that rail clamps would be an unnecessary extravagance on my railroad. Having all Aristo brass track I find that the tiny track screws, provided with the track, maintain good conductivity and keep the track firmly in its place on ballast.

I operate mainly by battery power nowadays but do retain a track power facility for a couple of locos. Track is easily cleaned with a pad - the thicker type of those used in kitchens - affixed at 45 degrees on a short pole. This polishes rather than abrades the railhead. The track cleaning loco is also, in my view, another unnecessary extravagance.

Dirty wheels are often a big cause of conductivity issues as we all know. Whilst many do not run in wintertime, due to weather conditions, I find that the track is far cleaner in winter than summer - less insects, pollen etc. fouling the rail head plus I am also able to see more of my trains as they amble around the back yard. ;D

But it is "horses for courses" I guess. ;)
 
JRinTawa said:
Aristo-craft screwed rail joiners all with no cooperslip or graphite grease and still have good track power conductivity after over 9 years.
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Yep, with Aristo screwed fishplates there's no need for rail clamps.

And another thing - wot about all of the broken rail clamps where you've tightened them up a bit tooooooooooooooooo much O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0
 
my track may be a overkill, as all the joints are soldered, apart from railclamps on points, multiple dc feeds around the track.
 
ROSS said:
That was days ago..and it was nail/head....back o' the class young Valver.

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Yeah I geddit Ross, as in hit the nail on..... I was just injecting a little humour to lighten the mood. Failed obviously, OK back of the class.
 
3Valve said:
Yeah I geddit Ross, as in hit the nail on..... I was just injecting a little humour to lighten the mood. Failed obviously, OK back of the class.
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Yeah, a bit risky doing humour here sometimes :o :o


Funny innit ? O0 O0
 
Like the Devonian i use mainly Aristo/USAT track with screws. After 12 years or so i have had to replace one fishplate that was causing a problem. No need for railclamps at all. I give my track a quick flash round with a garyflex block and clear any obstructions such as leaves or twigs as I go round. My smaller locks are battery power because it is hard to get really good slow running over points etc with a small loco. It's wherever works for each individual but I have managed pretty well without rail clamps.
 
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