GARDEN RAILWAY CONSTRUCTION: TOP FIVE MYTHS EXPOSED ABOUT ELECTRIC POWER OUTDOOR

[Douglas McLay]

It's becoming quite common for live steam operators to have or consider to start including a battery powered loco or two (usually diesel outline) amongst their fleet. Why battery ? Most live steamers' lines are 32 mm (represented by a society with 4,500 members) and were never configured for track power and even if it were an "0" gauge Class 37 might look a little incongruous chugging around with all the 16 mm and 7/8 ths stuff

Having said that there are a lot of us increasingly coming round to live steam who have come from a 45 mm/DC start and having a battery loco is an easier proposition when incorporating with or converting our "start up" stock. I have a GRS L&B 2-6-2 Exe converted to battery for those lazy days when I just want to bung something on and just watch it run.......after the obligatory minor track debris removal session. It's amazing what little stones and presents the members of the crow family and their pidgeon friends will chuck around here. Max.

 

[PhilP]

It's becoming quite common for live steam operators to have or consider to start including a battery powered loco or two (usually diesel outline) amongst their fleet. Why battery ? Most live steamers' lines are 32 mm (represented by a society with 4,500 members) and were never configured for track power and even if it were an "0" gauge Class 37 might look a little incongruous chugging around with all the 16 mm and 7/8 ths stuff

Most 32mm live-steam loco's do not have insulated wheels/axles.. So a 'Thunderbird' (to recover a failed steamer) needs to be quite powerful, and battery. - Preferably, Radio-Controlled.. But I would say that, wouldn't I?

 

[playmofire]

If there was a single solution which was clearly far better for most users then everyone would use it. The fact there isn't shows that no one solution works for everyone. By all means relate how your chosen solution (or solutions) works for you, but no bandwagons please.

Strictly speaking, Dave, if there were a single solution which was clearly far better for most users then only most users would use it. But this is just a bit of friendly pedantry having had my morning so far wasted by Boots' abominably slow website.

 

[dunnyrail]

It's becoming quite common for live steam operators to have or consider to start including a battery powered loco or two (usually diesel outline) amongst their fleet. Why battery ? Most live steamers' lines are 32 mm (represented by a society with 4,500 members) and were never configured for track power and even if it were an "0" gauge Class 37 might look a little incongruous chugging around with all the 16 mm and 7/8 ths stuff

Most 32mm live-steam loco's do not have insulated wheels/axles.. So a 'Thunderbird' (to recover a failed steamer) needs to be quite powerful, and battery. - Preferably, Radio-Controlled.. But I would say that, wouldn't I?

Just so you know Phil this has been a long ongoing thing, though these days with better quality RC sound and Battery DCC are the up an coming things. I bought my Merlin Motor Mule back in the 80’s as it was advertised by Tom Cooper as being powerful enough to rescue a steamed out Live Steam Loco and Train. It did indeed manage this to perfection. Since been sold on and can be seen at the CFR, though I think it now sports a new chassis.

 

[Douglas McLay]

The OP was 5 years ago, and I wonder how things have changed since?
When we see an a fairly forthright statement like this it is often motivated by a feeling that the cherished views of the writer are under threat......
I am a new garden railway owner, having just built a garden layout, which is of course quite different to my long standing N gauge system inside....
One of the joys of our hobby is that we can all plough our own furrow. When I started on this adventure it didn't take me long to decide that battery power and radio control is the way to go for me. That's not to say that I think everyone should follow my route, but I thought it might be worthwhile sharing why I made my decision and how it's worked out for me so far.
I get particular enjoyment from watching my models running at realistic, slow speeds, especially when starting and stopping. One of my pet hates is seeing an unfitted freight or Jinty hauled stopper flying round at TGV speeds and accelerating and braking almost instantly. I also enjoy shunting, and that needs to be done slowly to look right and gently to avoid derailments.

I also like to be able to enjoy an impromptu running session when the mood takes me. So the minimum of preparation to start running is important to me.

My layout is large enough to represent a significant investment to build with new track, so I've been collecting used track over the years when it's come up at a low price on eBay etc. Most of it is therefore pretty dirty and the points have plastic frogs and check rails. I didn't mind washing the track to get it looking presentable, but didn't relish the prospect of polishing all the rail before I could start laying.
My experience on my n gauge layout told me that track cleanliness is essential for reliable slow starts and stops, and that running over plastic frogs is nigh impossible with short wheelbase shunting locos. (I use a class 20, with both bogies live, to shunt with.)

In recent years battery technology has come on leaps and bounds. Modern NiMh batteries are a really practical solution to provide enough range to last a full afternoons running, and recharging is easy and relatively quick. Li-on cells are even better, although charging them really quickly needs proper chargers. However I've used a £15 Aldi strimmer battery charged by a matching £15Aldi charger to power my Piko Bo Bo diesel. It fits in the battery box underneath and powers the loco for several sessions before recharging.

Radio control equipment has come on too, and the model aircraft stuff is now both cheap and reliable. With 2.4 GHz systems it gets into every nook and cranny of my layout from inside our kitchen..... And it's not expensive. Less than £40 for a 6 channel transmitter and receiver. The transmitter can control up to 12 locos, each additional received costing around £12.

My first loco was equipped from the world of eBay and cost less than £30 to get it running with batteries, an RC system and ESC.

I'm delighted with the results I have achieved. I can set up in a few minutes. I just need a quick walk round the track to remove any twigs etc from the track and I'm off. Trains run reliably at slow speeds, start from a crawl and stop in a similar manner. Gone is the "points anxiety" I suffer from on my N gauge system when running slowly, and slow speed.

Each loco is controlled independently, as it would be with DCC, and I've had to do no wiring at all. No mains electricity is required and my only concern about track condition is getting it aligned so the trains enjoy stable running!

Shunting is a joy.

So you'll gather Im very pleased with my choice of battery powered radio control for my layout. Along with many of us I harbour an ambition to run some live steam. A radio controlled live steam loco would fit right in!

 

[Paul M]

You're right about battery power coming on leaps and bounds, all you need to do is look at the car industry. Sinclair C5 to a Gee Whiz, now even Jaguar. Obviously for our trains, there's a still a fair cost involved, and converting locos, although some folks on here are experts, isn't an easy option.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Yep, a lot has changed in the intervening years.

Batteries were already producing much more bang for yer buck, even if Lipo technology was less common, but one of the other big changes has been the development of R/C electronics specifically for the model railway hobby.

So now, you really can choose to suit your fancy - it's a really open field.

However, the more I read about de-coder questions ...................................... Analogue does me fine (with a few batteries and one steamie)

 

[dunnyrail]

Interesting that this thread has been raised again and no doubt some will be wringing their fists at what is being said. However as in all things we make choices and go our own way and clearly for you Douglas battery is the right thing for your requirements.

This has proved to be the case for myself, I have a fairly long line which if you take a trip round on my vid linked below will give you an appreciation of the track cleaning effort involved. I run Timetable days with friends and occasionally guests if I can get interest, thus a severe clean in DCC days prior to everyone arriving used to prove a task. I would try to do it the day before but typically it would rain overnight and need doing again on the day. As I have all sound perfectly clean shiny rails was a must as speeds are slow as is shunting of which there is a great deal with most trains being Mixed Passenger with Freight. I do however take some issue (personal that is) about using Aircraft Type RC, yes they are inexpensive but a real pain to use if you have also a Timetable Simplifier to carry as well as an uncoupling device. 2 handed Operation of the Plane RC’s is not for me or indeed my visitors.

What I have never done before is show all the varying systems Tx that I have together in one hit. This swill give one an appreciation of what they look like and the likely way to use them.

Top Left
A planet T5, this is my last Aircraft type of RC, it has been retained as I have been unable to get any other system to work the multiple functions on a scratch built Funkey which also includes Servo uncoupling. I am sure that it is possible and I managed to get most of it working with a Fosworks Tx and Rx. I think the solution may lie with Deltang.

Top Middle
Train Engineer, this one is a DCC one but I also have 3 others that do non-chip solutions. I like these as they are most suitable for single handed operation once one gets used to them, I less like their rather hungry use of the 3 AA’s required to power them, I have found rechargeable to be pretty well of no use on a 4-5 hour running session.

Top Right
Micron Deltang Rx, I bought the Deltang System as an experiment and it has proved pretty good with having 2 Locomotives and room for 10 more. With a lot of growling and help from Micron I have got 4 sound functions working with this. I think this will be added to for less used Locomotives remembering that I will only be able to have 1 moving at a time (remember my visitors). As I said this may be the way forward for my Funkey and when the round to it kicks in I will investigate that possibility. But oh boy does it take some time to get ones head round programming the system, the Deltang help guide is less than intuitive but GE Rik on this site and Micron got me there Plus a lot of encouragement from others especially Phil.

Bottom Left
Fosworks DCC Tx, note the 2 buttons on the right side which allow 12 sound functions to be actioned, plus my own printed reminder of these on the front, a larger version is on the back. I am very happy with this system the 2 x AAA’s Used to drive this and all the Fosworks/Peter Spoerer ones seaming to last almost indefinitely. Each of the Top Buttons can access 6 further functions by pressing and holding either the Red or Green button, pressing Red and Green together gives 3 more. Takes a little practice one handed but can be done.

Bottom Middle
Fosworks non-DCc Tx, again similar happy bunny using these. 3 buttons call the main functions of sound that I require. Button 3 on my Steam ones does the Safety Valve. Note that these can be ordered with an Inertia twiddly button, but I do not like that option so these days save a few quid by not buying a Tx with it fitted. That is a personal thing, but worth stating.

Bottom Right
Spoerer Live Steam Tx, note the 2 buttons one for direction the other for acceleration. The reminders are my own from a Dynmo Labeler. Fosworks took over the Spoerer setup when Peter retired thus the units are very similar.

Note my love of Lanyards, all have been modified in one way or another to take them using split pins and webb bought printed Lanryards. In the scheme of things a £70 or upwards Tx is better hung round your neck than dropping onto a concrete path.