Hello from Sarnia

Too late. I have 50 r1 feet of 34 feet of straight. I have a 70 foot layout in my basement and engine is running good. I ordered a 40 foot turquoise box car off of e bay. I plan on going to a model railway store tomorrow and get a 40 foot CN brown tomorrow... Plus maybe something else. It is all good. It will not be high speed rail. It will be a meander through the garden rail. After I get 3 or 4 cars that will be it. I will just get stuff now and then. I have not seen any yet I just assumed they were truck mounted. I am still getting the Aristo craft cn boxcar tomorrow.
 
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This is what I am getting soon by courier. I imaging the CN I get tomorrow will be similar
 

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TTaannggss said:
Well things are progressing good. If I am 2 hours away anyways in Kitchener Guelph area (which I am a few times of the year including yesterday) I can buy new track much much cheaper than used shipped from USA. I got 84 feet of good quality track so far. 50 r1 34 straight. I also found today an old battery steam engine (,not pricy). If I can get it going and can handle the r1 curves will use it as a converted track cleaner. Ya
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Nothing wrong with R1, so long as you know its limitations. I've been running an R1 railway for 22 years now, and still having fun. To put something in context, and set your mind at ease, I have an Aristo FA-1 regularly hauling 14 40' cars of mixed parentage, using LGB loop and hook couplers. My one secret is good track maintenance. Check out my thread on Taita Gorge Garden Railway.
 
No, nothing wrong with R1s as long as you don't expect miracles by running massive rolling stock. My garden line has a few R1s and I run live steam quite happily.
 
I got a Aristo CN and a us trains CN ..both 40 foot box cars. One is a bit darker brown...we took measurements and both are very close. That along with the turquoise box car I have coming. I am done. Just getting stuff now and then. Yaaa...as well this is the second vendor to tell me this. If you are thinking about expanding your railway do it now. With the supply situation new stuff will be a lot more expensive.
 
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Set them up on my basement 70 foot for now layout and they run great. The us trains is missing a brake wheel but I am sure I can pick one up some where. I did tell the seller on Kijji. Yaaa.
 
TTaannggss said:
I do like to mix and match. Makes life a bit more interesting... I am not into same ole....So I am thinking about getting this. Ya it is British rolling stock but the price is great even with shipping. I can rig something up to connect the engine to first car. Every year I can change the cargo .... It could be military tanks to logs to containers. I am not familiar with the make but does look realistic except for British being pulled by North American Engine. And brand new. ....what are your thoughts?
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Removing the bumpers, adding handwheels (Ozark Mountain is a good source), a little paint, and either knuckle or loop & hook couplers and they could pass easily for freelanced North American cars.
 
Today I will call the vendor about my missing break wheel again. I called him last week and was supposed to mail it to me. He found it on the floor. We took the 40 foot rail car out of the packaging to see if it was the proper scale and it was. If I do not receive the break wheel from him I will not recommend or make any more purchases from him. Ya
 
Got my 40 foot box car today... I really like it... This will be my last box car in the build. I will be just getting others now and then. Now I want to build an 8 foot long wooden tunnel. The plan is to store the train in there while the set up is outside during the summer months. May to October. Then bring the tracks and train inside my basement for me to enjoy the remainder of the year....for now. The tunnel will have 6 ...20 inch cemented posts and be on the main line. It will have hinged locked latches at each end. Onward and forward.
 

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TTaannggss said:
Now I want to build an 8 foot long wooden tunnel.
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And if something de-rails or generally gets stuck in the middle, I assume you have a plan to reach the offending items. Tunnels are not normally more than 2 arms lengths long (reached the middle from one end or the other), or removable top.
 
I have not had a derail so far so not worried about that. Dirty track condition....I have a somewhat permanent track cleaner attachment on my train. I will store it with the engine close to the exit just in case. So I can pull it out if need be. Ya
 
The locked shut at both ends tunnel is to deter theft and damage. Even though it is very unlikely anybody around here would do that. It is also to prevent sun and rain damage. As well I do want some air flow in that tunnel so it will not be totally enclosed. Ya
 
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TTaannggss said:
I have not had a derail so far so not worried about that. Dirty track condition....I have a somewhat permanent track cleaner attachment on my train. I will store it with the engine close to the exit just in case. So I can pull it out if need be. Ya
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Yes lots of "no problem, not had one yet" until the first one occurs, advise has been given, ignore at your peril, ya
 
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Don't worry be Happy. If I ever get a derail it is not the end of the world. Derail is part of the hobby. I tell people the difference between HO and G scales is no derail. Now I say couplers that work too. lol ya.
 
where the tunnel will go. I do appreciate your suggestions... It does make me think as to what might possibly go wrong and can plan for it if it does.
 

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Greg Elmassian said:
At least it is straight!

to keep moisture out, a 25 watt bulb will help, close the ends with "plugs" of wood or whatever, the small amount of gaps will let moisture escape (remember that 25 watt bulb?)

Greg
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Ok. I will show pictures as I progress. I do plan on having openings to let the air pass through. Thanks for your suggestions. I really do not want to bring the engine inside and out every time I want to run a train.
 
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