I really would stick to a well known brand of track, rather than try and make your own. It isn't easy, and trying to get it right might put you off completely. I think the first piece of advice most people give is get something running, there's always time for expansion when you know the basics
Hello from Sarnia
- Thread starter TTaannggss
- Start date
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Who know. I posted the sticker
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Yes I will have the engine in 2 weeks and will want to run in on track. .I like to go on day trips to bigger cities where I can get more track and other G stuff. Making my own straightaway can't be that tough if I can make it a lot less pricy. Tomorrow I will go to an alloy shop and get a price on stainless steal. Ya onward and forward.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
That item is a galvanized steel stud for home and business construction. Why someone put platinum on it is crazy.
Look for stainless steel strips about 1/8" thick and maybe 3/4" wide
Greg
Look for stainless steel strips about 1/8" thick and maybe 3/4" wide
Greg
JIm,
I like your enthusiasm for building your own track but I don't believe you are really thinking things through. Please pay attention to what we're trying to tell you. Aluminum is a poor choice for track power. It will require much more routine maintenance than either brass or stainless steel. There is no doubt about it. I think even Melbourne Sparks will agree, but I will let him speak for himself. You would be better served initially getting ready made track be it new or used. I realize you want to get something running right away. Believe me, with what's involved in making your own track, you will not be speeding up the process. You're talking of "only" making the straights. How are you going to mechanically and electrically connect to the curved track I think you have coming? It will not be simple.
Once you've got something going then you can investigate making track yourself to expand your pike. That's assuming you have or are willing to purchase the necessary tools. Again, check Igor's thread here: Track making/making tracks: the good, the bad and the ugly, advice and thoughts wanted, explanation is giving(incl mistakes)
I like your enthusiasm for building your own track but I don't believe you are really thinking things through. Please pay attention to what we're trying to tell you. Aluminum is a poor choice for track power. It will require much more routine maintenance than either brass or stainless steel. There is no doubt about it. I think even Melbourne Sparks will agree, but I will let him speak for himself. You would be better served initially getting ready made track be it new or used. I realize you want to get something running right away. Believe me, with what's involved in making your own track, you will not be speeding up the process. You're talking of "only" making the straights. How are you going to mechanically and electrically connect to the curved track I think you have coming? It will not be simple.
Once you've got something going then you can investigate making track yourself to expand your pike. That's assuming you have or are willing to purchase the necessary tools. Again, check Igor's thread here: Track making/making tracks: the good, the bad and the ugly, advice and thoughts wanted, explanation is giving(incl mistakes)
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Aluminum is almost not an option now. I will look into stainless steal today. I am keeping an eye out for used LGB track on e bay and Kijji. But it has to be a very good deal cus of shipping and duty...exchange rate is 30 percent on us money using a credit card. You are in my area. There is a store on Guelph Ontario that can sell me a new us trains 50 foot freight car.... good choice of railroads for 109c plus tax... I can pick one or two next time I am in that area which is like 3 times a year on average. It is all good.
Madman
Registered
Welcome aboard TTaannggss. I see that you've had plenty of excellent advise so far. No need for me to put my two cents in.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
You can never be too careful. G scale is a challenge. Even getting rolling stock I have to make sure everything is 1:29. I was about to buy a new Pico box car but nope. Most of Pico is 1:26. Now off to Lambton Alloys ...I would like to get my good outdoor track for under 5 can. a foot.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
So for 80 can for a 12 foot length. That is 6 feet of track. Plus cost of wood and work so... Another spot will only do it for 150.00 minimum. Might see what I can get for 150 another day. Used track is cheaper.
Chris Vernell
Tortoise
Winona Garden Railway Winona Garden Railway is a good place to browse.
They sell Piko brass track, which is good value for money.
Bachmann steel track, as mentioned above, is useless. They do, however, make brass track, but IIRC the curves are only R1.
Aristo-craft (if you can find it), USA Trains, LGB, Piko, Bachmann brass are all good outdoors and will match up. I have bits of all of them on my line. Second-hand can be a good thing.
They sell Piko brass track, which is good value for money.
Bachmann steel track, as mentioned above, is useless. They do, however, make brass track, but IIRC the curves are only R1.
Aristo-craft (if you can find it), USA Trains, LGB, Piko, Bachmann brass are all good outdoors and will match up. I have bits of all of them on my line. Second-hand can be a good thing.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Yes wynona is the shop in Guelph I was talking about. I would like to get 50 foot freight cars. Hmm CN brown or cp green hmmm
Back when I lived at Hertford a move was in the planning so I set to and started building my own track. I used Bonds (not available now) code 200ish flat bottom brass rail secured to ramin timber 10mm square sleepers with Bonds Brass rail pins. All sleepers cut to length from siding using a home made cutting jig. Those with a bench saw table could cut them yourself. However once the 150ft garden had a line built one side complete with some dual gage track and lots of points a few years resulted in big problems. The brass pins (7 shaped ) started lifting with the damp and dry cycles experienced in the garden. After a year or two going round with a hammer and pliers to knock them back in again on a monthly basis I though oh to hell with this, ripped it all out and bought Peco G45 track a decision I have never regretted.
Where I went wrong was to use brass instead of steel pins/nails. These rust in place and once that has occured an oiling will slow down the rusting process and help preserve the wood sleepers. Not very environmentally friendly these days but this was back in the late 80’s.
Igor on here cuts wood sleepers for ally strip making very complex track work. My old track went to a friend and lasted a good few tears before he gave up the ghost with it, but the rails would still be good being brass.
Timber in the garden will rot in time, how long depends on the status of where it is, in damp ballast not long lasting but a dry sunny area perhaps longer if the termites don't get it! Fortunately we do not have too much trouble with them little blighters in blighty, but they are present in the very south west and perhaps with global warming may extend their range.
So what is the summary of this ramble, well yes it is nice to have a big railway. But less is more if you want to run trains, you can always start with a small railway and expand as you can afford it. Just always build with a plan to extend after each stage and that big railway will eventually arrive.
Where I went wrong was to use brass instead of steel pins/nails. These rust in place and once that has occured an oiling will slow down the rusting process and help preserve the wood sleepers. Not very environmentally friendly these days but this was back in the late 80’s.
Igor on here cuts wood sleepers for ally strip making very complex track work. My old track went to a friend and lasted a good few tears before he gave up the ghost with it, but the rails would still be good being brass.
Timber in the garden will rot in time, how long depends on the status of where it is, in damp ballast not long lasting but a dry sunny area perhaps longer if the termites don't get it! Fortunately we do not have too much trouble with them little blighters in blighty, but they are present in the very south west and perhaps with global warming may extend their range.
So what is the summary of this ramble, well yes it is nice to have a big railway. But less is more if you want to run trains, you can always start with a small railway and expand as you can afford it. Just always build with a plan to extend after each stage and that big railway will eventually arrive.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
I am still considering the platinum. It is called Bailey's Platinum plus. It is rust resistant galvinized steel so it should be conductive??? I am going to buy 2 pieces and give it a go next time I am out and about. It is very inexpensive plus I can cut it to make more pieces. Click on to make it clearer
Attachments
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Well, you realize the galvanized coating is to prevent rust.
But you have to consider how railroads work. They are efficient because of low rolling friction.
This is because of 2 factors:
1. The wheels and track are of a metal that does not "give" or "compress" under pressure. Anytime your energy goes into flexing or squeezing something, energy is lost. Tires on cars wear and heat up from this. Wheels and rails do not because they do not give.
2. The contact patch (where they actually touch) is very small, radically reducing friction.
OK, that is why trains take less energy to move something than a truck.
BUT!!!
This means all the force is concentrated on a small area, and this will have a very adverse affect on a plating or coating, meaning it will wear quickly.
To make matters worse, galvanizing is not a smooth consistent thickness like plating.
Also, the metals used for galvanizing are picked for corrosion resistance not strength.
The bottom line is there is a very good chance you will wear off the galvanized metal very quickly.
Bottom line:
NO, DON'T do it with any plated metal unless it is a very hard plating (like nickel).
Greg
But you have to consider how railroads work. They are efficient because of low rolling friction.
This is because of 2 factors:
1. The wheels and track are of a metal that does not "give" or "compress" under pressure. Anytime your energy goes into flexing or squeezing something, energy is lost. Tires on cars wear and heat up from this. Wheels and rails do not because they do not give.
2. The contact patch (where they actually touch) is very small, radically reducing friction.
OK, that is why trains take less energy to move something than a truck.
BUT!!!
This means all the force is concentrated on a small area, and this will have a very adverse affect on a plating or coating, meaning it will wear quickly.
To make matters worse, galvanizing is not a smooth consistent thickness like plating.
Also, the metals used for galvanizing are picked for corrosion resistance not strength.
The bottom line is there is a very good chance you will wear off the galvanized metal very quickly.
Bottom line:
NO, DON'T do it with any plated metal unless it is a very hard plating (like nickel).
Greg
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Ok thanks.... so will keep an eye out for nickle plated galvinized steel.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
You won't find that, so nickel plating is very expensive, only 2 companies made rail this way, LGB for a short time, and TrainLine45 in Europe.
Way out of your price range.
Better luck finding stainless steel rail.
I think the stainless steel straps are a possibility, and wooden ties can be made to last, again, reading Igor's thread about making rails, and the woods he has experimented with is the best experience I have ever read. Other than people talking about what preservatives they use (oil based) and their favorite wood (normally cedar), he's far above anything I have read. Wood can last for years and is very inexpensive if you make it yourself. Many people successful in the North American continent.
Greg
Way out of your price range.
Better luck finding stainless steel rail.
I think the stainless steel straps are a possibility, and wooden ties can be made to last, again, reading Igor's thread about making rails, and the woods he has experimented with is the best experience I have ever read. Other than people talking about what preservatives they use (oil based) and their favorite wood (normally cedar), he's far above anything I have read. Wood can last for years and is very inexpensive if you make it yourself. Many people successful in the North American continent.
Greg
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
At 80 plus tax. can. dollars for a 12 foot strap. 6. Feet of track ..plus wood and who knows what else ..may as well buy used LGB track off of e bay. One shop I went to yesterday said 150 minimum. So might go back there and see how many feet I can get with that.
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
Too bad I through out all my ho track. I might of been able to rig something up with that. I did keep around 40 feet of plastic ez track.
Chris Vernell
Tortoise
Rail would be too small for large scale flanges..
Yes, G gauge track is costly, but I amassed my collection a small purchase at a time as my "empire" expanded. It's cheaper than tobacco or alcohol
(that's a financial observation, not a temperance lecture).