HSB goes indoors
- Thread starter ColinK
- Start date
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
It is great stuff, and very convincing - a single pot will probably be enough to fill your coaling bins! Some cheeky b*ggers on evilBay seem to buy it (at £1.49 a pot), split it into baggies of 100g or so and then flog it for a fiver a bag..... ah well, "Caveat Emptor" and all that....
Jon.
Still waiting for glue to dry on the factory building and coaling stage. Picked up a goods shed kit from Arcadia yesterday - I had planned to scratcbuild one, but the kit will be quicker. Made a start on it.
The kit includes a base which I’m not going to use, hence the balsa bits to keep it square. I’m thinking it would be more Harz like if the wood strips were vertical, not sure how easy it would be to cover it in coffee stirrers. Perhaps add a low concrete base too.
The kit includes a base which I’m not going to use, hence the balsa bits to keep it square. I’m thinking it would be more Harz like if the wood strips were vertical, not sure how easy it would be to cover it in coffee stirrers. Perhaps add a low concrete base too.
Be quite easy but if you do that it may have been quicker to just scratch build in the first place.
You're right; the benefit of being able to discuss ideas on here. I've got a provisional exhibition booking for next February and using kit buildings gives me a greater chance of having it complete in time. I can always replace the buildings with scratch built ones in a year or two to refresh the layout.
Finally I seem to be making a bit of real progress. First the coaling stage which is now complete; there was a bag of coal in with the kit which has been glued with pva, its not quite dry yet and the Testor’s dullcote finally got rid of the gloss finish.
Next is the low relief factory with the windows fitted and weathered. It still needs a back adding and a fan fitting in the circular hole. The weathering finish is a bit too even in colour and it needs a bit more work to improve it.
I also got the roof on the goods shed last night, held it together with masking tape to stop it moving while the glue dried.
Next is the low relief factory with the windows fitted and weathered. It still needs a back adding and a fan fitting in the circular hole. The weathering finish is a bit too even in colour and it needs a bit more work to improve it.
I also got the roof on the goods shed last night, held it together with masking tape to stop it moving while the glue dried.
Took my building down to the model railway club yesterday, but a partial failure. The plan was,
a) fit battery powered LED lights, done.
b) fit some pipes behind the windows to add some interest and disguise the empty interior, done.
c) fit a battery powered working fan, failed. I had a fan unit from a Hornby class 50 diesel and a slow speed 6v motor/gearbox from Squires Tools and intended to link them with rubber band drive. However, the class 50 fan only worked when held horizontal and would not work when attached vertically to the wall. This happens because inside the init and below the fan there is a large plastic wheel and a weight, the weight keeps the plastic wheel in contact with the drive shaft. Mount it vertically and the weight doesn’t keep the shaft in contact with the drive wheel. After a bit of head scratching it became clear that the only answer was to find a slow running small motor and mount the fan directly on the motor’s shaft.
a) fit battery powered LED lights, done.
b) fit some pipes behind the windows to add some interest and disguise the empty interior, done.
c) fit a battery powered working fan, failed. I had a fan unit from a Hornby class 50 diesel and a slow speed 6v motor/gearbox from Squires Tools and intended to link them with rubber band drive. However, the class 50 fan only worked when held horizontal and would not work when attached vertically to the wall. This happens because inside the init and below the fan there is a large plastic wheel and a weight, the weight keeps the plastic wheel in contact with the drive shaft. Mount it vertically and the weight doesn’t keep the shaft in contact with the drive wheel. After a bit of head scratching it became clear that the only answer was to find a slow running small motor and mount the fan directly on the motor’s shaft.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
OR
Leave the fan free-running, and use a pound-shop battery fan to make it move due to the air current??
Depending on the environment, it might even move in any breeze / draughts in the area???
Started work on the station at the other side of the room. Built the platform foundations, it will eventually be covered in cinder chippings. I’ve not finished painting the wall and the large building should actually be in the foreground, but it looks OK for now where it is (makes a nice backscene).
That last photo gave me a bit of inspiration, but also meant a slight change in the plans.
The large building was meant to be on the side of the tracks nearest the camera and facing away from it. This would be fine for viewers if I ever exhibit the layout, but at home all I would see is the uninteresting back of the building which due to its size would be in the way and vunerable to damage. The inspiration was to make it possible to have the building either in its exhibition position, or at home in the position above. To make this possible I’ll have to make a removable piece of scenery which will fill the position not used by the building, that should be fairly straightforward.
So having made that decision, everything else at that end of the layout has fallen into place as can be seen by the photo below. The white plastic section acts marks off the area where the building or removable bit of scenery goes. The new foot crossing links the platform and factory (in home position). While the goods shed/office fits in at the other end; it has to be this way round to give enough clearance for trains to pass.
The next job is to weather the brick wall after which I can apply a thin layer plaster for the ground and then paint it.
The large building was meant to be on the side of the tracks nearest the camera and facing away from it. This would be fine for viewers if I ever exhibit the layout, but at home all I would see is the uninteresting back of the building which due to its size would be in the way and vunerable to damage. The inspiration was to make it possible to have the building either in its exhibition position, or at home in the position above. To make this possible I’ll have to make a removable piece of scenery which will fill the position not used by the building, that should be fairly straightforward.
So having made that decision, everything else at that end of the layout has fallen into place as can be seen by the photo below. The white plastic section acts marks off the area where the building or removable bit of scenery goes. The new foot crossing links the platform and factory (in home position). While the goods shed/office fits in at the other end; it has to be this way round to give enough clearance for trains to pass.
The next job is to weather the brick wall after which I can apply a thin layer plaster for the ground and then paint it.
Back home after a long weekend away, including a visit to the excellent Spalding Model Railway exhibition - I dropped my wife off in Spalding at 0930 and said I would meet her at 1500hrs at the show, fully expecting to discover she had been sat in the van for a couple of hours and bored, amazed when she said she could have done with longer. I managed to get a few important bits from Squires tools. She spent more than me.
The first item from Squires was a slow reving motor, which today I’ve fitted in the big building seen in earlier posts. It now has an extractor fan which works.
I laid the platform surface using Woodland scenics ‘course cinders’. To glue them down I tried Delux Materials ‘ballast magic’ which is a dry powder you mix in with the ballast (cinders in my case), spread where you want it, spray with water and that activates the glue. Did all that last night and this morning a fair proportion of the cinders were not stuck down. Not good, especially as ballast magic is quite expensive. Added some dilute pva and still the cinders are not stuck down. I’ve added more pva and am hoping it sticks this time.
Mranwhile I’ve painted all the plaster on the above photo. Its starting to look like a railway now. No pictures today as its too dark.
The first item from Squires was a slow reving motor, which today I’ve fitted in the big building seen in earlier posts. It now has an extractor fan which works.
I laid the platform surface using Woodland scenics ‘course cinders’. To glue them down I tried Delux Materials ‘ballast magic’ which is a dry powder you mix in with the ballast (cinders in my case), spread where you want it, spray with water and that activates the glue. Did all that last night and this morning a fair proportion of the cinders were not stuck down. Not good, especially as ballast magic is quite expensive. Added some dilute pva and still the cinders are not stuck down. I’ve added more pva and am hoping it sticks this time.
Mranwhile I’ve painted all the plaster on the above photo. Its starting to look like a railway now. No pictures today as its too dark.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
G scale inside and G scale in the garden are two different worlds - and it's great to see both 
Did you try a bit of washing up liquid in your water spray? Most likely the water just did not penetrate the glue without any, surface tension you see. Also with my mix of 50/50 Water and PVA I always add a drop or two of Washing up liquid. When making that mix it is worthwhile using luke warm water just to get it all nicely mixed in. Oh washing up liquid last after you have shaken it all well. Likely at this time if the year unless you are in a heated room the glue can take an age to dry.
Yes I included the washing up liquid Jon, I suspect that when I added water to the ballast magic all the glue sank to the bottom leaving the top without any. Your right about it drying slowly.
Here is the building with the fan on the right and the light now working, all battery powered. The two grey upright bits on the right were actually covering the bolts holding the original fan motor/gearbox in place; although the are no longer needed, I left them on as it breaks up the structure a bit.
Here is the building with the fan on the right and the light now working, all battery powered. The two grey upright bits on the right were actually covering the bolts holding the original fan motor/gearbox in place; although the are no longer needed, I left them on as it breaks up the structure a bit.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yeah, have had the same problem at King's Lynn, Watlington, Downham Market ...............
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
Take a brolley then....Yeah, have had the same problem at King's Lynn, Watlington, Downham Market ...............