Modifying a LGB Frank S into a tank (creating a Franco Belge KDL11 look alike!)

Re:Creating a Franco Belge KDL11 0-8-0T (or look alike!)

Like it even more, I was trying to put my finger on it earlier and It was looking more Vale of Rheidol with the tanks like that, the revamp looks more like the FB loco in my opinion. That's not to say version one wasn't good just looked like a different influence. The lamps certainly help.
Amazing what a difference such small changes make.
 
Re:Creating a Franco Belge KDL11 0-8-0T (or look alike!)

Its going to be a nice looking loco. However, I couldn't do that to a Frank S. But that's just me.
 
Re:Creating a Franco Belge KDL11 0-8-0T (or look alike!)

Hehe chaps I've been modifying and repainting stock for years in 4mm so I'm less nervous - this just seems to be an expensive but natural progression. It should give me a reliable, chunky, hard wearing locomotive that will give years of reliable service without too much extra mechanical work - but also give me a unique model that no one else (that I know of) has, or has modified themselves. One day I'll do a proper job of the KDL11 in G (or perhaps HOe) but for now this 798.201 will do for me :)
 
Re: Modifying a LGB Frank S into a tank (creating a Franco Belge KDL11 look alike!)

I've re-titled this thread to hopefully reflect the project more closely :)
Hoping to get half an hour on it tonight - should make a start on the rear bunker now the side tank is proven in concept...

If I jot down in a to-do list it might help me shape things up in my head, and share with you guys what I've left to do...

1) New rear cab bunker shell
2) New side tank shell
3) Modify front valance by removing lights and stantions, clean up and make good paint finish
4) Modify lighting wiring to run into new lights in new side tanks
5) Finish side tanks (add a curved chamfer, make backs, bottoms, lighting conduit and top detailing along with a few weld lines)
6) Finish rear cab bunker (dummy lights, wiring conduits)
7) Create a new rear coupling mount
8) Fabricate new rear buffer mounting, and paint red to match underframe
9) Fit vacuum brake hoses front and rear
10) Clean up dust and marks from handling, then mask the boiler
11) Primer (white in cab, grey on body)
12) Spray cream in the cab, then mask when dry
12) Satin black on body
13) Gloss varnish where transfers will be applied
14) Number and other transfers applied
15) Remove all masking and seal with satin varnish
16) Re-fit glazing and re-assemble to chassis
17) Fit 'works' plates when they arrive from 'Narrow-planet'

Wow - quite a bit. I'll need to get cracking on the transfers I need too - and send them off for manufacture in the next fortnight. I think I've got most of the materials I need. For now I'm going to keep the original funnel, although I may look to fabricate a giesl ejector at some point and then make a decision about fitting it :)
 
Have to say I prefer the sloping ends on this'un that the mole posted - think it looks more businesslike.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/m12353...ild it back up again with coal rails?... J.
 
Thanks Jonathan - I'm taking inspiration from the Austrian post-war conversions of the KDL11 0-8-0TT rather than the HF110C 0-6-0TT. Only one of these aquired tanks, the Francesca S, but I chose not to model that one and instead create my own take on 'what if' as the OBB did have three HF110Cs, that were retired in the early 1960s... what if these has been converted to tank engines for some of the lighter duties on the remaining 760mm lines?...

The coal bunker - I'll be adding some details - but the prototypes (well the KDL11 conversions) were a welded construction right to the tops.

Thanks for the continued interest guys - encouragement and questions helps generate my energy and enthusiasm for this project.

As for a motorised tender - well yes and no - it won't have any lamps, couplings or buffer (as these will all be needed on the tank engine). I haven't decided what to do with the rest of the body and motorised chassis yet. If it's for sale I'll pop it up in here before eBay. Drop me a PM though so I don't forget :)
 
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Spot the difference?
I documented tonights efforts on my blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.com See if you can spot the work that made up an hour and half's effort!
 
Cheeky guys!

The second tank went together a lot quicker this evening - and I've now got a good idea of what I'm doing with the back of the tanks. Once these are done I'll paint them as I don't think I'll be able to do that properly once they're attached!

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Oooh, like that a lot- 'tho I think I'd have gone for the sloping front tops as well. I think the tank engines are better looking than the tender variants and that's shaping up to be a very nice representation.

You are a brave man!
 
Thanks Matt (is it Matt or Brian!?)!
The sloping tanks of the Francesca S didn't appeal to me - plus I wanted something that echoed the utility of the 699.1xx conversions - hence the big hulky rectangular side tanks.

I've made more progress...
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I've ordered some 0.9mm rivets (in the form of waterslide transfers) to add some 'relief' to the bunker and side tanks. I will finish off the second of the side tanks, get it fixed on and then I can start adding the finer details. I can't wait to get a coat of primer on and pull it all together!
 
James, not sure the transfer rivets will be entirely convincing. They may look OK from certain angles, but they just won't have the texture of 3D ones.

Can I recommend the plastic rivets made by Cambrian - only about a quid for squillions and not quite as boring to fix as you might think. You simply put a blob of liquid cement where you want each rivet and pick them up on the tip of a knife to put them in place.

An alternative method I've used is to mark out their position on the rear of the plasticard and stamp the rivet (I use a bradall and a very light hammer). If you hit the stamp too hard you might create a hole, but this is easy to fill. You soon learn how hard to hit the stamp.

This standard gauge wagon includes both methods. All the riveting was done in one evening, but don't count them :bigsmile:.

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Thanks Mel - these ones come highly recommended and as I need neat stripes (in places) have the added attraction of being on a waterslide backing. I believe they're 3D resin mouldings, rather than plastic. I'll let you know how I get on... and if they look rubbish then an expensive experiment and I'll get some Cambrian ones - thanks for the tip off :)
 
James,
good to see someone doing some creative work to change LGB into something that they want. Take the saw to it and enjoy.
JonD
 
Will be very interested to see how your rivets work out, James - I've found several ways of doing them over the years, some more time-consuming than others, including slicing thin rings of plastic from some round-section evergreen rod (a Northwest Short Line "Chopper" plastic-cutting guillotine is invaluable here) or punching tiny circles out from plasticard using a very useful hole-punch set I picked up from somewhere. When the time factor is considered, buying ready-made ones actually seems a lot more sensible.... ;)

Jon.
 
Thanks guys...
Jon - these ones should be true 'domed' rivets... so I'll post up when they arrive.
Tonight I've finished the second tank structure and glued it to the structure. So that's another milestone reached - all the basic body structure in place (I've still got one bit of structure to sort - the rear coupling and buffer!).

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I've also got my hands on a book, and been inspired by a garden railway video... check out them on my blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.com
 
Started on the rear buffer beam and coupling mount this afternoon. It's fasioned out of styrene and the original screws to produce a stiff, strong mounting. Once happy I started on the buffer beam. Once things set I'll start on the bits that lie just above each rail (deflectors I presume) building off the structure already in place.

The buffer will be mounted on the flat pad, and the rivets I've ordered will be put to good use on this, and the original beam below the cab before I added the bunker.

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You can compare to the prototype here:
http://www.ebepe.com/html/w9894.htm
 
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