Ox Mountain Railway

So the brackets and footboards are glue in position and they received a coat of matt black brush-on paint...

Board Meeting _1_.JPG

Board Meeting _2_.JPG

The footboards - ex hardwood window frames were a bit of a pig to cut down to the correct width of 10mm and sanding was even worse. Next job (if I get time before Sunday) will be to make up a couple of vacuum brake pipes. The headstocks have been cut away (previously) to allow for bogie mounted couplings - so I'll have to improvise again - not much space left to mount the pipes.
 
So the brackets and footboards are glue in position and they received a coat of matt black brush-on paint...

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The footboards - ex hardwood window frames were a bit of a pig to cut down to the correct width of 10mm and sanding was even worse. Next job (if I get time before Sunday) will be to make up a couple of vacuum brake pipes. The headstocks have been cut away (previously) to allow for bogie mounted couplings - so I'll have to improvise again - not much space left to mount the pipes.
That's a nice looking coach :clap::clap::clap:
 
Thanks - there's little bits that need touching up but, in general terms, it will do for now.
 
It was the L&B, and particularly their Manning Wardle locos, that sold me on narrow gauge railways as an impressionable youth. I attempted an 009 Manning Wardle but it was an epic fail, but I remained fascinated by narrow gauge railways :inlove:
 
It was the L&B, and particularly their Manning Wardle locos, that sold me on narrow gauge railways as an impressionable youth. I attempted an 009 Manning Wardle but it was an epic fail, but I remained fascinated by narrow gauge railways :inlove:

Nice part of the world - we used to holiday down there and I too was fascinated with it!

Well, it's a mediocre day (rain & drizzle) so I made up two brake pipes .....

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When the paint's dry I'll glue them in position. I've tried it in the trailer and there is just enough clearance - so that's it for a week or more! The pipes are made from 3.2mm welding electrodes, and a thread has been cut to simulate the flexible pipes.
 
A lot of L&B, this is from my visit last year:

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Nice part of the world - we used to holiday down there and I too was fascinated with it!

Well, it's a mediocre day (rain & drizzle) so I made up two brake pipes .....

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When the paint's dry I'll glue them in position. I've tried it in the trailer and there is just enough clearance - so that's it for a week or more! The pipes are made from 3.2mm welding electrodes, and a thread has been cut to simulate the flexible pipes.

Not a use for welding electrodes which immediately springs to mind.
 
Well, I'm now in possession of all the stuff I need to attack the second coach (thanks everbody) but it might have to wait a while. I've left the box out so I don't forget it!

Meanwhile, bits and pieces needed attention on the trailer (or in) the trailer. Ingress of water has been a problem. I've used some Polyurethane caulking sealant but, in the end, I used my fingers to apply the sticky stuff ......

Sealing things _1_.JPG

Sealing things _2_.JPG

Sealing things _4_ .JPG

Only Xylene would clean it off my hands. Having sealed the cladding panels where they joined the floor, and the bottom of the wheel arch I thought I'd got it covered. Just in case I hadn't, I covered the bottom (and sides) of the boxes in plastic so that they wouldn't get wet again. I did the right thing because on last Sunday's trip out, it rained and usual puddles were about. So pic #2 was another attempt at sealing. Today,
I just tidied up the appearance of the work.
 
I did a little bit of work on the garden line .....

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The point in the bottom R/H corner has a conductivity problem (which I found today as I attempted to run a loco on the inner loop) so that's next on my agenda of fixes! Here's the loco pulling a short train on the outer loop a day or two ago and then, bottom picture, today by itself on the inner loop. ......

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The only other problem was that, when I fixed the cribbing, I dropped the camera on the concrete:banghead:
Of the two lugs on the battery compartment lid, one sailed away to pastures new, whilst the one on the opposite side of the compartment also took leave of absence. A cable tie just about holds things together for the moment.
 
I did a little bit of work on the garden line .....

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The point in the bottom R/H corner has a conductivity problem (which I found today as I attempted to run a loco on the inner loop) so that's next on my agenda of fixes! Here's the loco pulling a short train on the outer loop a day or two ago and then, bottom picture, today by itself on the inner loop. ......

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The only other problem was that, when I fixed the cribbing, I dropped the camera on the concrete:banghead:
Of the two lugs on the battery compartment lid, one sailed away to pastures new, whilst the one on the opposite side of the compartment also took leave of absence. A cable tie just about holds things together for the moment.
Depends on the camera, but battery doors for some are available on evilbay :nod: :nod:
 
Depends on the camera, but battery doors for some are available on evilbay :nod: :nod:

Unfortunately, its one clip on the lid and the other on the case. It only dropped about a foot:cry:

I will have to see if I can make some new bits. As you say, lids are available on the net - cos the current lid is ex ebay (it's not the first time I've damaged the camera:banghead:).
 
Well the cable tie is doing it's job holding camera bits together. I sorted the offending R1 point out .....

R1 sorted.JPG

Just a permanent jump lead - two 2mm holes, a piece of salvaged wire, two crimp-on eyes, and two2x6mm stainless self-tappers!
 
Mick,just caught up,great job on the coach,looks the part:clap::clap:,good fix on the point too,I will remember that one,for the planned extension I have a switch that may have the same problem,I think you layout is cool with the moss and so on blending in with the surroundings,looks natural but ME thinks maybe just maybe may give you some running problems from time to time?;):cool::nod::nod:
 
Mick,just caught up,great job on the coach,looks the part:clap::clap:,good fix on the point too,I will remember that one,for the planned extension I have a switch that may have the same problem,I think you layout is cool with the moss and so on blending in with the surroundings,looks natural but ME thinks maybe just maybe may give you some running problems from time to time?;):cool::nod::nod:

The points! I have repaired them properly in the past but the general method I use now (for maintaining continuity) is quite effective. Although I have plenty of rail clamps, using those involves removing rail joiners. As for the moss, it provides a wonderful seed bed for those seeds (Dandelions) parachuting in :banghead:! Plus, the moss holds the moisture which can cause the odd problem. The other thing is that the railway acts as a corridor for the onward spread of plant life - as does/did the 12" to 1' prototype, and the preceding canal networks. The little rock plants and the like have all come from single plants of the different species without my intervention!
 
Having run the Davenport, the only problem I have with it is the couplings. Being 1/20th scale, the couplings are far higher than those on any of my rolling stock. I suppose I was lucky drawing the side tipping ore cars around - it certainly would uncouple itself on the trailer layout.

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I dismantled the rear coupling but have now put it back together for the time being. Apart from making a 'match truck' - which would really mean that I would have to select what type of train it would haul!

Alternative to that would be to do some butchery, open out the next coupling pocket below, and then fabricate a new fixing bracket Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
Having run the Davenport, the only problem I have with it is the couplings. Being 1/20th scale, the couplings are far higher than those on any of my rolling stock. I suppose I was lucky drawing the side tipping ore cars around - it certainly would uncouple itself on the trailer layout.

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I dismantled the rear coupling but have now put it back together for the time being. Apart from making a 'match truck' - which would really mean that I would have to select what type of train it would haul!

Alternative to that would be to do some butchery, open out the next coupling pocket below, and then fabricate a new fixing bracket Anyone have any other suggestions?
It's possible to use an after market multi-height coupling with bits of a plastic buckeye - looking for pictures.

Or simply file down a plastic buckeye to fit in between the slots of the multi-height.

Having looked at the pictures, I did the opposite with the blue and yellow dismal, where the desired height was below the multi-point, so I fattened up the shaft pf the buckeye to stop it drooping :nod::nod:

The plastic buckeyes have thinner shanks, this one is designed to take a buckeye at any height

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It's possible to use an after market multi-height coupling with bits of a plastic buckeye - looking for pictures. Or simply file down a plastic buckeye to fit in between the slots of the multi-height.

Which is what I have done with my Bachmann Shay and Accucraft Shay & Climax. I use the link and pin multi height block fitted to the loco and mod a Kadee to fit. Check the Kadee site as they have some well established coupling mods listed.


Max
 
Hi Mick
My sympathies with the camera. I'm now on my third. I found the first face down in a pool of leaked superglue and discovered the two don't mix. The second bit the dust when I used it to take pictures when I rebuilt the stream on a wet day. Handling it with wet, gritty fingers wasn't a good idea! A grating sound when I switched off the camera and the lens got stuck half way in. I tried taking it apart to clean it and ended up severing a flimsy ribbon cable. I've discovered the hard way that cameras and garden railways are not happy companions.....:eek:

Rik
 
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