Roundhouse battery loco, pre-purchase questionnaire
- Thread starter Mobi
- Start date
Tony Walsham
Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
Uh!! Oh!!
Another possible convert coming to the most addictive branch of the hobby known to man.
When that happens Mobi would do well to consider if his chosen R/C system can also handle live steam locos.
Another possible convert coming to the most addictive branch of the hobby known to man.
When that happens Mobi would do well to consider if his chosen R/C system can also handle live steam locos.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Stainz = No space. A little awkward to take apart (especially for a 'beginner'). Already analogue, so stuff volts up the rear socket.. NO power on track, you will be fine..
Kof= More space. Relatively easy to take apart. BUT !!PLEASE!! remove the decoder for later use / to sell on to part-fund battery RC.
You can (almost) not destroy the Stainz, no matter what you do to it.
You can easily destroy the decoder in the Kof. - You would then have a 'dead' loco, the perception of which is you have 'failed' and wasted your money, even if you then get it going on battery.
Kof= More space. Relatively easy to take apart. BUT !!PLEASE!! remove the decoder for later use / to sell on to part-fund battery RC.
You can (almost) not destroy the Stainz, no matter what you do to it.
You can easily destroy the decoder in the Kof. - You would then have a 'dead' loco, the perception of which is you have 'failed' and wasted your money, even if you then get it going on battery.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Should be pretty similar.. If your is a more recent model, you will not need to have-at the motor-block. - You will have FOUR connections.Mobi said:
Remember, to get it to run, you only need two wires to the motor from a source of power.. All the rest, you can add-on later.
Also, check those bulbs.. if they have flat ends, they are 5V. - you will need to regulate the power to these, so as not to blow them.
Tony Walsham
Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
Pretty much except you will not need to do any of those modifications. They are needed for DCC but not for battery R/C.
Isolating one side will be enough and you can use the existing slide on connectors to wire in the motor.
This might help. http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/11638
Isolating one side will be enough and you can use the existing slide on connectors to wire in the motor.
This might help. http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/11638
Neil Robinson
Registered
Mobi said:
I doubt it. However some models, especially those not made by LGB, often have deeply recessed screws. I find this set
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/6-piece-screwdriver-set-a45qu useful
Tony Walsham
Manufacturer of RCS Radio Control.
PhilP said:
Why would another track make any difference?
It cannot short out on a track with only one side of the track pick ups connected.
Mobi,
A real pleasure to see you on Sunday, the Chocy is perfect. Pity that yout time was som limited.
A few points on your recent posts.
Battery Wagon, I have altered one of the cheepo LGB Opens to have a Large Packing Crate as a Load. Seams to me that Battey Kit would fit nicely inside it. You could take the Body off, drill a neat hole and run your Wires to the loco across the Balcony or at the other end.
The Box is a simple Balsa Wood Box cover in Coffee Stirers. Technology that your daughter could assist with!
Another cheep option for a Bettey Conversion would be a Newquid 2-6-2t basically a clone of the LGB Loco with the Engine Number of 99 6001. The Radio and Sound on this are poor, but at less than £100 if you look round on Ebay would make a better option to learn the trade as it were.
For RC look at Timpden RC
http://timpdon.co.uk
I have one of these systems to possibly fit out my Newquid Loco with together with a My Loco Sound set.
http://mylocosound.com/pages/mylocosoundhome.html
You can get these in UK from Peter Spoerer
http://www.peterspoerermodelengineers.com
Looking at Screwdrivers the Maplin Set looks good, not sure about its Magnetic abilities though. You could take one of your LGB Screws in a small bag to a good DIY Shop and try various screwdrivers out for both Size and Megnetic ability. Most important that you get the Right Size as the wrong one can so easily Trash Screws.
JonD
A real pleasure to see you on Sunday, the Chocy is perfect. Pity that yout time was som limited.
A few points on your recent posts.
Battery Wagon, I have altered one of the cheepo LGB Opens to have a Large Packing Crate as a Load. Seams to me that Battey Kit would fit nicely inside it. You could take the Body off, drill a neat hole and run your Wires to the loco across the Balcony or at the other end.
The Box is a simple Balsa Wood Box cover in Coffee Stirers. Technology that your daughter could assist with!
Another cheep option for a Bettey Conversion would be a Newquid 2-6-2t basically a clone of the LGB Loco with the Engine Number of 99 6001. The Radio and Sound on this are poor, but at less than £100 if you look round on Ebay would make a better option to learn the trade as it were.
For RC look at Timpden RC
http://timpdon.co.uk
I have one of these systems to possibly fit out my Newquid Loco with together with a My Loco Sound set.
http://mylocosound.com/pages/mylocosoundhome.html
You can get these in UK from Peter Spoerer
http://www.peterspoerermodelengineers.com
Looking at Screwdrivers the Maplin Set looks good, not sure about its Magnetic abilities though. You could take one of your LGB Screws in a small bag to a good DIY Shop and try various screwdrivers out for both Size and Megnetic ability. Most important that you get the Right Size as the wrong one can so easily Trash Screws.
JonD
Mobi
Registered
The voltage regulator arrived but it is useless. My 8xAA batteries were producing 9 V. The regulator ate 3 V outputting only 6 V max. Loco decoder ate 5 V (as per loco manual). So what remains is just 1 V which was too low to power the loco [emoji19]
Then I connected battery pack directly with rear socket as shown in picture. The loco runs fine. [emoji3]
I think I need batteries that are stronger than standard AA NiMH. But then I need a charger for that too. The list just grows!
Of course removing decoder should help.
Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk
Then I connected battery pack directly with rear socket as shown in picture. The loco runs fine. [emoji3]
I think I need batteries that are stronger than standard AA NiMH. But then I need a charger for that too. The list just grows!
Of course removing decoder should help.
Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk
Attachments
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
If you want 'something in hand', and to allow the batteries to discharge a fair bit before having to stop..
You will want a minimum of 12V from the batteries. Also remember rechargeable batteries tend to be 1.2V.
Others have more experience of suitable voltages for this style of working, but 14.4V is often mentioned.
You will want a minimum of 12V from the batteries. Also remember rechargeable batteries tend to be 1.2V.
Others have more experience of suitable voltages for this style of working, but 14.4V is often mentioned.