The Whareora & Glenbervie Branch Line
- Thread starter Beddhist
- Start date
royale
G scale and driving my Royale Sabre kit car
Re: A Train with No Name
The straight track on your Peco points are always slightly curved and they're actually made like that (I've no idea why) so even brand new ones have that slight curve. You could consider covering your boards in a good quality roofing felt to replicate ballast and carefully heat the edges with a torch to curve it over the edge of the boards without cracking the felt. - a lot of guys who run live steam locos do this and it does look better that having your track just on bare wood. You could always put a mix of real ballast and outdoor PVA glue on top of this.
The straight track on your Peco points are always slightly curved and they're actually made like that (I've no idea why) so even brand new ones have that slight curve. You could consider covering your boards in a good quality roofing felt to replicate ballast and carefully heat the edges with a torch to curve it over the edge of the boards without cracking the felt. - a lot of guys who run live steam locos do this and it does look better that having your track just on bare wood. You could always put a mix of real ballast and outdoor PVA glue on top of this.
Beddhist
Motorcycle travel, trains
Re: A Train with No Name
That is really weird. I wonder why Peco and USAT do that? It makes for a wobbly ride when going straight through several points, as it will be on my line.
My intention is to spread ballast across the whole 'table'. I already have a cunning idea on how to obtain it for almost nothing...
That is really weird. I wonder why Peco and USAT do that? It makes for a wobbly ride when going straight through several points, as it will be on my line.
My intention is to spread ballast across the whole 'table'. I already have a cunning idea on how to obtain it for almost nothing...
Beddhist
Motorcycle travel, trains
My first attempt at the ladder track support failed miserably: the rough-sawn 2x3 that I cut up for spacers was too rough. The mill cut it with odd angles and inconsistent thickness, so I ended up with a slight roller coaster. :-X
Cutting up leftover decking timber was a bit more successful and I got about 2m done today:
The Indian summer is coming to an end, so there will be a pause in construction, me thinks. Time to finish my rail truck.
Cheers,
Peter.
Cutting up leftover decking timber was a bit more successful and I got about 2m done today:
The Indian summer is coming to an end, so there will be a pause in construction, me thinks. Time to finish my rail truck.
Cheers,
Peter.
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
Re: A Train with No Name
One of those PECO points turned up in my office yesterday (along with a lot of other LGB track) when a spot of trading and dealing was taking place (we have 4* garden railroaders in the same room, so woe betide anyone that sneers about 'playing with toy trains'). Indeed, the 'curve is set into the straight road, and held there with settrack type links between the sleepers. Could be worth a try at cutting some of these to allow straightening of the turnout. Wouldn't touch any near the frog area, or tne switch area, though.
* We started with 3 garden railroaders, and one toy train collector. He owns a garden, and now some track.... so that makes hime 'one of us'
One of those PECO points turned up in my office yesterday (along with a lot of other LGB track) when a spot of trading and dealing was taking place (we have 4* garden railroaders in the same room, so woe betide anyone that sneers about 'playing with toy trains'). Indeed, the 'curve is set into the straight road, and held there with settrack type links between the sleepers. Could be worth a try at cutting some of these to allow straightening of the turnout. Wouldn't touch any near the frog area, or tne switch area, though.* We started with 3 garden railroaders, and one toy train collector. He owns a garden, and now some track.... so that makes hime 'one of us'
Beddhist
Motorcycle travel, trains
Re: A Train with No Name
Wow, 4 in the same office!
I think I managed to straighten out one of them with a screw strategically placed to push the sleepers in the desired direction. I did that mainly to see which direction the ladder frame needed to go. I should be able to fix the others in the same way. I call this a design fault.
Wow, 4 in the same office!
I think I managed to straighten out one of them with a screw strategically placed to push the sleepers in the desired direction. I did that mainly to see which direction the ladder frame needed to go. I should be able to fix the others in the same way. I call this a design fault.
Beddhist
Motorcycle travel, trains
Progress today:
I`m struggling with the ladder frames. They are not that easy to bend. One snapped near the middle, so only half of that is now usable.
That 1.8m Y post is only stuck into the ground. At this point the track will be just below the 2nd hole from the top. I think I will attach the track to the green house at this point.
Somehow I think I was sold the wrong screws. They are #6 stainless, but the heads are rather small and they don`t make the rungs tight. I hope this is not going to turn to custard...
Regards,
Peter.
I`m struggling with the ladder frames. They are not that easy to bend. One snapped near the middle, so only half of that is now usable.
That 1.8m Y post is only stuck into the ground. At this point the track will be just below the 2nd hole from the top. I think I will attach the track to the green house at this point.
Somehow I think I was sold the wrong screws. They are #6 stainless, but the heads are rather small and they don`t make the rungs tight. I hope this is not going to turn to custard...
Regards,
Peter.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Re: A Train with No Name
It will probably not help with the inner sections, as the cuts would need to be on the inner side of the curve. - Would look unsightly, and the weather would get in more.
PhilP.
It will weaken them slightly, but will certainly help with bending 'in' the outside section.. I would go in about 3mm every 150mm or so, and give it a try.. Not sure what your climate is like (it looks lovely at present!) but I would flood the cuts with preservative as they will show 'fresh' wood to the elements.Beddhist said:
It will probably not help with the inner sections, as the cuts would need to be on the inner side of the curve. - Would look unsightly, and the weather would get in more.
PhilP.
Beddhist
Motorcycle travel, trains
Re: A Train with No Name
Thanks Phil. I'm not making very sharp bends, so I hope I will be ok. It was an inside strip that broke, but I may have kinked it a little. This is trellis timber, so probably not meant to be bent. I think it's pressure treated pine. If it isn't it won't last... ???
Thanks Phil. I'm not making very sharp bends, so I hope I will be ok. It was an inside strip that broke, but I may have kinked it a little. This is trellis timber, so probably not meant to be bent. I think it's pressure treated pine. If it isn't it won't last... ???
JRinTawa
Member of the Wellington Garden Railway Group
Re: A Train with No Name
If it's trellis batterns it will be H3.2 treated which is not a full depth treatment even on the relative thinness of trellis so for any cuts one should use Metalex (or similar) diluted to the directions on the tin. You'll find Metalex at ITM, Bunnings, Mitre 10 etc.
Another trick to bending the likes of the trellis is to soak the timber in water for a day or so then bend when wet.
If it's trellis batterns it will be H3.2 treated which is not a full depth treatment even on the relative thinness of trellis so for any cuts one should use Metalex (or similar) diluted to the directions on the tin. You'll find Metalex at ITM, Bunnings, Mitre 10 etc.
Another trick to bending the likes of the trellis is to soak the timber in water for a day or so then bend when wet.
Beddhist
Motorcycle travel, trains
Re: A Train with No Name
Oh dear... all the other timber I am using is H3.2, so if that is not treated right through then it will all rot, as a lot of it has been chopped into small bits. Even the decking timber is 3.2, and that got chopped, too.
I learned another lesson today: don't follow the instructions where they say to assemble it all at ground level, then raise it up. You need at least as many people as you have posts. Tricky, when I'm doing this on my own.
On the other hand, it's all coming together now. I'm about 2/3 round the greenhouse and I have straightened a section for a future loop turnout.
More to do tomorrow and I'll take some pictures, too, if the weather holds. It's amazing: we are in the middle of autumn and it was sunny and 25C today!
Cheers,
Peter.
Oh dear... all the other timber I am using is H3.2, so if that is not treated right through then it will all rot, as a lot of it has been chopped into small bits. Even the decking timber is 3.2, and that got chopped, too.
I learned another lesson today: don't follow the instructions where they say to assemble it all at ground level, then raise it up. You need at least as many people as you have posts. Tricky, when I'm doing this on my own.
On the other hand, it's all coming together now. I'm about 2/3 round the greenhouse and I have straightened a section for a future loop turnout.
More to do tomorrow and I'll take some pictures, too, if the weather holds. It's amazing: we are in the middle of autumn and it was sunny and 25C today!
Cheers,
Peter.
JRinTawa
Member of the Wellington Garden Railway Group
Re: A Train with No Name
Don't worry to much Peter, as long as it's well clear of the ground you'll get a good number of years out of it before it gets doozy. In theory H3.2 should be at least 150mm clear of the ground. H4 in contact with the ground for things like fences and garden railway supports. H5 for piles and retaining walls etc. hmm you'd think I do this for a day job wouldn't you
What ever the treatment level best practice is for all cuts to be flooded with Metalex or similar brush on preservative. A pain to do at the time but worth it for things where we expect a long life span. In some ways garden railways don't fit this but in others they do. 
Don't worry to much Peter, as long as it's well clear of the ground you'll get a good number of years out of it before it gets doozy. In theory H3.2 should be at least 150mm clear of the ground. H4 in contact with the ground for things like fences and garden railway supports. H5 for piles and retaining walls etc. hmm you'd think I do this for a day job wouldn't you
What ever the treatment level best practice is for all cuts to be flooded with Metalex or similar brush on preservative. A pain to do at the time but worth it for things where we expect a long life span. In some ways garden railways don't fit this but in others they do. 
