What happened at your workbench today?

Is that an O gauge power bogie amidst the sprayhem
Can you say a little more about it
Origins/what it’s for?
Yes it is a Hymec Motor Bogie, one of two that are an EBAY purchase Kit build pair. They have been rebuilt somewhat so that they work rather than not by using brass in places rather than the white metal that was broken or just not man enough for the job. Mini chains have made them both 4 wheel rather than 2 wheel drive. On the bench to get to grips with the My Loco Sound links to Deltang control system. Not easy to get 4 sounds but doable as I have done it with 2 x Steam Trams but having problems with this one. Will get resolved eventually, just need a rainy day on the workbench.
 
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Yes it is a Hymec Motor Bogie, one of two that are an EBAY purchase Kit build pair. They have been rebuilt somewhat so that they work rather than not by using brass in places rather than the white metal that was broken or just not man enough for the job. Mini chains have made them both 4 wheel rather than 2 wheel drive. On the bench to get to grips with the My Loco Sound links to Deltang control system. Not easy to get 4 sounds but doable as I have done it with 2 x Steam Trams but having problems with this one. Will get resolved eventually, just need a rainy day on the workbench.
Well I finally got to grips with my Deltang issues yesterday on a cold not rainy day, well there were some snow flurries but moving on....

I could not get the Rx65-22 into Programming mode. It appeared that I had forgotten that the Tx22v2 needs the Inertia knob setting to ch 4. The instructions say as above but on my printout is on previous page but never mind that resolved I was in Prog mode and things were occurring. Oh yes they were, after some abortive programming whereas the motor worked the wheels revolved before now they did not. Appears that I had done something I did before which was to screw up something that is resolved by programming 1.1.1.1. Having resolved that I then did the rest of my programming and got all 4 sounds working plus the wheels move as well. Then I put the Inertia back to Inertia and all is well with the world. Oh yes the TX beast takes the best part of 2 minutes to Toggle between Inertia and controlling Channel 4. Such are the joys of Deltang.
 
Yes it is a Hymec Motor Bogie, one of two that are an EBAY purchase Kit build pair. They have been rebuilt somewhat so that they work rather than not by using brass in places rather than the white metal that was broken or just not man enough for the job. Mini chains have made them both 4 wheel rather than 2 wheel drive. On the bench to get to grips with the My Loco Sound links to Deltang control system. Not easy to get 4 sounds but doable as I have done it with 2 x Steam Trams but having problems with this one. Will get resolved eventually, just need a rainy day on the workbench.
Thanks for the details
I’m on the lookout for something suitable to upgrade a Lima 33 where the bogies are short and almost certainly based on a French prototype
They might be suitable for rebuilding to suit a North British B-B D6300 type if ever I was inclined to build one
 
Thanks for the details
I’m on the lookout for something suitable to upgrade a Lima 33 where the bogies are short and almost certainly based on a French prototype
They might be suitable for rebuilding to suit a North British B-B D6300 type if ever I was inclined to build one
Hm somewhere I think I have quoted the Kit Manufacturer that supplied the Etch and Whitematel replacement bogies, think that there is also a similar kit for the Lima 33. But my 0 gauge knowledge is long gone since departing the Gauge 0 Guild.
 
I am not sure if there is another supplier but PRMRP do conversion kits for the Triang Hymek and Lima 33:


I remain firmly in the 7mm camp as well. Handy when the weather is as inhospitable as this.

Regards

Simon
 
I am not sure if there is another supplier but PRMRP do conversion kits for the Triang Hymek and Lima 33:


I remain firmly in the 7mm camp as well. Handy when the weather is as inhospitable as this.

Regards

Simon
That sounds pretty similar to what I have on my Hymec.
 
Latest on the signal box lever frame.

Having built the lever frame, my next task was to make support brackets and a shelf to fit above the levers. This shelf will take the track diagram and a pair of block instruments with associated bells. The shelf and supports were made from 3.0mm Foamex. The track diagram and block instrument dials were drawn using Microsoft Paint and printed on white card. The block instruments, their bell boxes and the track diagram frame were made using Foamex and plasticard. The block instrument bells are 10.0mm brass plated upholstery studs.

dig 210409001.JPG

dig 210409002.JPG

David
 
More work on my Steam Tram and continuing with my Wagon rebuild. One thing I have done never tried before was to use some Gun Blue on Brass buffer bases, very please with the result. Hm photo not working. Comes below then does not allow insertion to the thread. Never mind will be seen elsewhere in the fullness of time.
 
Latest on the signal box lever frame.

Having built the lever frame, my next task was to make support brackets and a shelf to fit above the levers. This shelf will take the track diagram and a pair of block instruments with associated bells. The shelf and supports were made from 3.0mm Foamex. The track diagram and block instrument dials were drawn using Microsoft Paint and printed on white card. The block instruments, their bell boxes and the track diagram frame were made using Foamex and plasticard. The block instrument bells are 10.0mm brass plated upholstery studs.

View attachment 283541

View attachment 283542

David

Very nice!
Can I make a couple of suggestions?
 
Whoho Pictures working again well done Paul.

One that was to be posted a few days ago showing all sorts going on with the Wagon conversion and my G3 Steam Tram. To the right there are Brass Buffer bases and Heads that have had a Chemical Blue (for guns) applied that has very satisfactorily coulored up both a black worked on colour. Though a little bitbof rust has appeared on the Steel Shafts but that is fine in my book.
2197E581-3674-433F-A531-AEC922D96116.jpeg
Today the 0 gauge Hymec is present. You can just make out the 2 bits of Tamiya lining tape that was used to get the numbers level. Somewhere since painting the numerals silver many months ago some have gone missing so I cannot do the other side till the Silver Paint has dried on the replacements. Typically there were no more 7’s so I had to cut up 2 Z’s to make some more sevens and as I only had 3 Z’s it will be D7007 one side and D7002 the other. A trick I have used in the past so that you get 2 engines for the price of one. You can see how with some difficulty I have managed to stuff in the Deltang and MLS boards. 0 Gauge Batterification is not for the faint hearted if you refuse to use other than NiMh batteries. Still I have again managed to get 4 sound functions operating on a Deltang Rx65-22.
AC83657E-84CD-49BE-84CE-DF6BD4571F43.jpeg
 
IMG_20210412_203246.jpg

The bridge is taking shape. And the giraffe still guards my workbench.

Question: what should the internal width be? Will 15 cm be enough? My widest piece of rolling stock is an LGB four wheel passenger coach of the standard type. 12 cm
 
Well chuffed with a big electrical upgrade to my two IPE 0-4-0 Locos. I replaced the ESC/receiver chip with a Fosworks setup. The Fosworks ESC can handle up to 28volts, so I am well in with the loco voltage of 14.4. I bound both locos to one controller, and ensured they were wired so they operate in opposite directions to allow for cab/cab or nose/nose working. Their speeds in either direction match perfectly. If only one is needed, the other is simply switched off. I left the toggle switch for the front/rear lights ( as I have never seen a driver switch lights on back and forth in a yard). The simple Innovative Train Technology Products (Acme, I think) sound loop remains in situ, as, after a few minutes the sound does my crust in anyway so it goes off. The Fosworks controller has three "power bands". This feature will be investigated.

Heres the locos on a convenient tea tray.

173487196_922253911941794_7099406054832126165_n.jpg
 
Well chuffed with a big electrical upgrade to my two IPE 0-4-0 Locos. I replaced the ESC/receiver chip with a Fosworks setup. The Fosworks ESC can handle up to 28volts, so I am well in with the loco voltage of 14.4. I bound both locos to one controller, and ensured they were wired so they operate in opposite directions to allow for cab/cab or nose/nose working. Their speeds in either direction match perfectly. If only one is needed, the other is simply switched off. I left the toggle switch for the front/rear lights ( as I have never seen a driver switch lights on back and forth in a yard). The simple Innovative Train Technology Products (Acme, I think) sound loop remains in situ, as, after a few minutes the sound does my crust in anyway so it goes off. The Fosworks controller has three "power bands". This feature will be investigated.

Heres the locos on a convenient tea tray.

View attachment 283755
I rather like the Fosworks control gear. I assume you mean the 3 speeds steps in the Viper? If so this is a great way to cut down the top speed and is pretty easy change. I normally these days specify my handsets without the Inertia Control Knob. Makes for a less cluttered handset and I never use Inertia anyway.
 
I rather like the Fosworks control gear. I assume you mean the 3 speeds steps in the Viper? If so this is a great way to cut down the top speed and is pretty easy change. I normally these days specify my handsets without the Inertia Control Knob. Makes for a less cluttered handset and I never use Inertia anyway.

I must confess I am new to their products and possibly you are right about the inertia, I sort of set it halfway and leave it. One of the settings is indeed half speed, not that these shunters are very fast anyway, but it will be played with, just to test it obviously :cool:
 
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