Gasp! The price of this Book is rising faster than the price of Gold!
No, not a later edition, an earlier edition is what you need.
. I decided to try something I should have thought of when I first had the loco open - swapping the pantograph plugs to see if the issues I were having with the rear pan were related to the pantograph drive itself. Note the rear pan would go up but could not be lowered either digitally or with a change of direction on analog power. Turns out there was also a problem with rear pan's drive unit in addition to the decoder programming problem mentioned in the other thread. I removed the pan drive for inspection. The motor ran in both directions when powered directly. While fiddling with the circuit board holding the end-of-travel micro-switches I was able to get the drive to operate in both directions. Closer inspection revealed this:
Upon inspection it is pretty clear why the A2 output does not operate the rear pantograph on my LGB Ge 4/4 III! Nothing is connected to the decoder A2 output! This early generation of LGB digital locos use serial pulses of A1 to control functions. I changed the setting for F12, the pan function key for this loco, to switching from momentary on my central staton. This lets me pulse A1 with taps of the pantograph (F12) key. Two taps (two A1 pulses) will raise or lower the front pantograph. Three taps (three A1 pulses) raises or lowers the rear pan. This is just as described for the MTS Train Mouse on page 10 of the instructions. I now have full digital (if archaic) control of both pantographs and a fully digitally functioning early generation LGB Ge 4/4 III !
It's been quite a learning experience.
very nice, however, would they have looked better with the fixed fish plate removedOK, three wagons from my mateHalf ArsedHal Farsed now completed - just waiting for the logs to dry a bit before I pickle 'em in preservative
Actually, the first one's a bit blurry, and that was taken before chablis-o-clock
View attachment 294094
Not so interesting factlet - the screw cover from an outdoor socket box is just the right size and shape to serve as a firebox door.
Very effective, I used an Arduino for a similar effect to fit in a light to replace a candle.Assembling the bashed Bachmann and tested out the firebox effect. Sorry about the video - nigh-on impossible to get an iPhone on the footplate! Coals lit from beneath with dull red and bright yellow LEDs, and from above with a flickering orange. Hoping it passes the Neil Robinson orangeness test
Yes, I thought about that ............................ and then I thought some more .........................very nice, however, would they have looked better with the fixed fish plate removed
Hm not really, Arduino is somewhat tricky to get your head around but I bought a kit that allows me to set things up with small jumper wires and tag blocks. The setup for creating the Candle effect was got including the code from You Tube. If you get chance for a visit and train play this year will show you the setup.You're too clever, by half! I've only just learned how to use a soldering iron
In that case, you're three steps ahead of meYou're too clever, by half! I've only just learned how to use a soldering iron
