Ox Mountain Railway

[trammayo]

Mick, is that material sort of like plastic corrugated cardboard ? If so, it's used for temporary signs like political ones here. It's easy to work with, but as you say, needs bracing as it will warp over time in the sun.

Yes it is Dan - used as an internal wall cladding for the likes of bathrooms instead of tiling and slots together (it's hard to see the joints if done properly!). And yes it does need bracing well.

So some more done yesterday...


The basic structure now complete awaiting further reinforcing ......





So, just a couple of vertical angles to put in, and a sliding door to gain access when in use (as per the original stucture) .....



I might add that the control panel only acts as a large connector block, the rotary switches long ago fused in the closed position. The sections could be shut off, or stock reversed. It was, and is, an analogue system (and that describes me!).

Hope to get some more done today!

 

[Paul M]

Mick, is that material sort of like plastic corrugated cardboard ? If so, it's used for temporary signs like political ones here. It's easy to work with, but as you say, needs bracing as it will warp over time in the sun.

We had road workers outside our house months ago. Last month the signs were still up. Then they were removed by a stranger and hidden in the strangers' shed

 

[Rhinochugger]

We had road workers outside our house months ago. Last month the signs were still up. Then they were removed by a stranger and hidden in the strangers' shed

We put a banner up for the church autumn fair last Saturday - banner and bungees disappeared - I shall come knocking

 

[Chris Vernell]

We put a banner up for the church autumn fair last Saturday - banner and bungees disappeared - I shall come knocking

Who's that knocking at my door?

 

[Paul M]

We put a banner up for the church autumn fair last Saturday - banner and bungees disappeared - I shall come knocking

Not me

 

[trammayo]

Did a little more work on the depot - the sliding access door amongst other things ......



The L/H of the 'door' is kept in place by the plastic angle stuck to the main structure - whilst, when drawing it open, the R/H angle, which is cemented to the door, is pulled. A piece of uPVC board acts as a guide when closing said 'door',

The guide piece is secured by four stainless steel screws secured through the galvanised angle which supports the door. They were the shortest screws iI had so I had to grind off the points.

 

[Madman]

Yes it is Dan - used as an internal wall cladding for the likes of bathrooms instead of tiling and slots together (it's hard to see the joints if done properly!). And yes it does need bracing well.

So some more done yesterday...
View attachment 292447
View attachment 292448
The basic structure now complete awaiting further reinforcing ......

View attachment 292449
View attachment 292450
View attachment 292451
View attachment 292452
So, just a couple of vertical angles to put in, and a sliding door to gain access when in use (as per the original stucture) .....

View attachment 292453

I might add that the control panel only acts as a large connector block, the rotary switches long ago fused in the closed position. The sections could be shut off, or stock reversed. It was, and is, an analogue system (and that describes me!).

Hope to get some more done today!

Thanks for that info, Mick. I fail to comprehend house such material can hold up to the environment of a bathroom.

 

[trammayo]

Thanks for that info, Mick. I fail to comprehend house such material can hold up to the environment of a bathroom.

I wonder how many minutes it would last in a kitchen?

 

[Madman]

I wonder how many minutes it would last in a kitchen?

Mick, not wanting to belabor the subject, I would really like to know how such material is applied and how it stands up to the riggers of a bathroom environment. As useful as corrugated plastic is, you hit it with an elbow and it dents or worse. I must sign off now, but look forward to hearing more when I return this afternoon.

 

[trammayo]

Mick, not wanting to belabor the subject, I would really like to know how such material is applied and how it stands up to the riggers of a bathroom environment. As useful as corrugated plastic is, you hit it with an elbow and it dents or worse. I must sign off now, but look forward to hearing more when I return this afternoon.

Well Dan, my son says he used water based wall tile adhesive to stick it to the walls and used clear silicone for all the joints! I've seen the same item in a local Builder's Merchant (when I was trying to find some plastic angle strips for the build - no joy with that). I'll have to take a look next time I'm in there and see if there's any instructions on the wrapping

Anyway, at the moment, I'm managing with the strips my son brought (said he hoping). Did some more bits yesterday and will try again today. Pictures later I hope.

 

[trammayo]

Progress ......




The white angle pieces will eventually be painted grey. Next on my agenda will be to fit the dummy windows - mount on the outside (no holes in the walls) I managed to prise out two windows from the wooden frames on the original structure. The windows are made from cast resin and I still have the mould (and spare window) somewhere If I can't find what I think I have, I might use a plastic one....



So, I'll see what tomorrow brings!

 

[trammayo]

I keep doing little bits - this time using wood! I use Tongue Depressors ......

When I built the station in 2012, the roof shingles were made from this product - and they are still OK - and I will do the same for the Freight Depot.

Meanwhile, here's what I've made recently ......

I used some uPVC Fascia board offcuts for the framework base. I then treated it with solvent-based wood treatment .....


It's actually made in Whitely Bridge, Yorkshire (didn't know that until I took a pic) but stocked locally in Ballina.


The thin white line around the base is the actual face of the board but the main plastic took the wood treatment well. Now, I have to make the sliding doors (although they'll be glued solid). I found a small sheet of plastic board which is brand new (another purchase that cannot remember carrying out) so I'll see if it takes to being scribed and roughed up - it pretty dense and hard. Mind you, I feel dense these days !

 

[trammayo]

Well, I finally found the piece of plastic - only discovered it a few days ago and already I had forgotten where I found it The white, shiny, sheet was roughly A4 in area. It had a protective clear film on one side ....



I cut the doors out as one piece (6" tall x 6.5" wide), and used a knife to scribe the edges of the timber. I then used a saw to scribe the grain, and roughed it all up a little more with a sanding block being careful to mark the horizontals at right angles. I wasn't sure how the scribings would look or visually delineate the 'individual' pieces of timber, so I used a black ball-point pen to highlight everything and drew some knot holes as well. The plastic is about 4mm thick so I had to saw the ends of the cut to make sure all went well in the divorce.

I then seperated the two halves and blasted over with a light coat of paint and left them to dry in the afternoon sun. It had to be light coating anyway as the rattle can was virtually empty!


Once the doors were dry enough to handle, I posed them on the depot front. Now I need to make door furntiture and all the things that external sliding doors need!


So, it's onwards ........................................................... and sideways!

 

[trammayo]

A little bit more done.....


It's the camera lense (honest!)



Still plenty to do with the doors. Might have to wait to see if the weather gets warmer!

 

[Rhinochugger]

Can I place my order for one now, please?

 

[Anglian]

You can make that two Mick.
Trevor

 

[mike]

Outstanding...love it

 

[ge_rik]

Outstanding...love it

Ditto!!

Rik

 

[trammayo]

So, despite the weather, I've being doing a few bits since my last posting .......


Door handles (ex 2.5mm welding rod), door stops, and a drop of paint ....


After that, I've been messing about with windows ......


I must admit that I have had a few problems keeping the surrounds glued together. I have tried superglue but, as you may notice, the 45 degree joints aren't perfect. I have a cartridge of 3M wood glue which is clear to start with and then goes to an off white colour as it dries. It also expands as part of the process but can be sanded down.

The latter process (of sanding) caused joints to open. In the end, I was getting rather annoyed and decide to nail the joints. I used some old 15mm veneer pins but I had to drill a 1mm hole to enable the pins to start their journey into the wood. Once started, frame into the vice and a pin hammer to drive them in. Drove me mad!



Then it was rattle can time (after warming the cans in the house). The windows - apart from a small one, are those I cast for the original depot. The only white spray that I had was radiator enamel but it did the job.

Next item to consider was the 'glazing'. I save useful (to me) packing materials and I had some clear plastic which had contained a panel saw. So, out with the third rattle can to paint it black all over (one side of the plastic only!). The paint was matte but that didn't matter! .....


And the other side became glossy.....

It was drizzling when I took the pic - honest!

Wish it would get a little warmer!

 

[Chris Vernell]

Wish it would get a little warmer!

December, January, February, February, February, February, March ...
ah, April, that might do it ...