Paycar possibilities?

Hi Mick,


The boiler was likely to be covered with either Russian or American Iron covering. For that use the superb Humbrol Metalcote range which go from light (silver) to dark (gunmetal) - my Como is the latter.

My DSP Mogul is the middle colour - steel -

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painted finishes came in later - the above 'xxx iron' finished did not rust - we would call them planished iron the Glasgow & South Western big Baltic tanks had the boiler clothed in planished iron, and its not blue in colour.

Look for images (via Google) of the 4 4 0 Eureka & Palisade number 4 - that is also the Gunmetal colour for the boiler cladding.

The photo of the Paycar has the boiler cladding a bit bashed about it must have had a hard life.

You mention your 'mistake' - there could be a reason for that the men to be paid enter from the rear to a desk by the arched window and get paid - the desk is in a room at the back, and would contain guards (or security) men as well thus the extra space is needed for them!

Just an idea - that 'arch window' provides light for the paydesk.
 
Hi Rob & Peter - they say "practise makes perfect" - I'm a practising idiot!. Anyway I got a blade and managed to seperate the offending piece and glue it in the opposite end. I wouldn't care but, having jigged the body sides to glue in the internal bulkheads (with a slow setting glue) to get everything square and level, I thought superglue would be fine for the last (rear) piece!

Peter - thanks for the info on the boiler colour (and that pic of your Mogul) - I'll have to try and get a tin of the Humbrol Gunmetal colour. Usual problems out west - probably get it posted to my son's address up North!

Did you brush apply or airbrush? In my case, the loco is so small it'll be easy to brush?
 
Hi Mick, re Humbrol Metalcote - I brush it, use 2 coats , polish it up between the coats (it only takes about 30 minutes to set - wash brush out in cellulose thinners), lightly sand it if required . Put a second coat on and when dry polish it up again, then give it a coat of Johnson's Klear - that is the stuff for kitchen floors (get it from supermarkets and the spelling is correct by the way), for protection. I use it as a varnish coat all the time: the idea came from the military modelers crowd who use it for aircraft canopies, and its much cheaper than the small tins of the stuff.

The dome and its wrapper would be the cab colour I think, though you could paint the dome wrapper as brass - the driver has done it himself, as he is proud of his little engine!

Thanks for the comment re photo of the mogul is a bit old now (it is about 9 years old I think!)that is the first loco I built in G Scale.
 
Hi Peter - than you for your reply.

One question remains (sorry to take up your time) - what did you use as a primer. I have used a rattle can primer in the main although I have used ordinary (oil based) red oxide as well in touching up my alterations.

I never tire of seeing your models - fascinating - I wish I had your patience and skills.
I started out with the idea of building model trams in the garden, bought a Big Hauler set six years ago and have been hooked on the early American loco scene ever since! Trouble is I cannot justify two fleets (garden and trailer) so everything has to be able to negotiate R1's even though I am slowly changing over in the garden (ready for when I stop doing the rounds of shows).
 
Well its been a frustrating day today. Did forty mile round trip to Tesco (and other shops) to see if I could get some Johnson's Klear as recommended by Peter. No chance - after trying three supermarkets/shops I gave that one up. Next came the search for Humbrol paints. I remembered a certain garden centre used to carry a selection but, not any more!.

Anyway, being down in the dumps, I pulled mi'sen up wi me own booit straps as they say (well they do in Yorkshire) and had another mess with my creation. THe mistake with the rear bulkhead had already been sorted so I made one for the front. Then I worked out clearances for the floor as it extends down the side of the boiler. You can tell from the photos that I've cut it pretty tight (about 1mm clearance or less as the loco negotiates R1's) and I may glue overlapping pieces to the side of the boiler. With the cab front propped in position, I ran it round the track to test clearances for the firebox end of the boiler (a static test on R1's in the workshop are no match for a dynamic test:rolf:). So that's sorted - all I need to do is make the doors (these will remain in the closed position so that they will form the "cab" portion of the bodywork.

Here's some pics...

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That's really coming on a treat, Mick! Ply for the bodywork looks so much better than scribed styrene. What thickness are you using?
 
Hi Giles - its 1.5mm in the main with 0.8mm for the door overlays etc. I've never used styrene sheet but I suppose it has its advantages. I've always worked with wood and card - the latter medium can be quite strong - so don't know any better I suppose:rolf:

Its difficult getting hold of "true" modelling materials - it all has to come from the UK (even the ply) - so I tend to use things I can get hold of from the 12" to the foot world. I managed to find a a mail order site last night (Model Hobbies) for the humbrol paint so thats on its way from England.
 
Well got the "front" in position and glued up after making a pair of doors. They're not matching pairs - the engineers side has very deep windows. One thing that struck me was the angle of the doors - whilst the front is more or less in proportion, the doors are not because the body has been built to narrow-gauge proportions. Hopefully, unless viewed head-on, it won't be that obvious.

I measured the o'all length = 535mm (not inc. couplings) and the width is 105 and the rail head to top of stack is 155mm.

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I have been doing little bits each day fitting glazing bars and stops but needed to get a coat of paint on before glazing. Decided to have a look at the small selection in town and came away with an odd tan/choccy colour. Noy over enthused with the results but maybe its a start while I work out the valve gear and other "under boiler" bits for the loco (on a hiding to nothing really). Anyway a couple of pics...

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Congratulations Mik,
looking better with every picture - I even like the quirky 'toffee' colour - good enough to eat! :thumbup:
Will be making a copy of your headlamp for my 'Camel' shortly (the B&O RR museum did send some useful pics today! )

Best wishes
Rob
 
Hi Rob. Went to do a bit more yesterday and the paint had fully dried. It had an almost bronze lustre to it. YUK! The label didn't indicate this - I guess you've got to know your car colours. Mind you, in tiny print on the cap it did say two stage paint! I just went by the colour indicator label (with all its disclaimers). So I mixed some paint and brushed it on. Pics later today maybe.
 
Mick, I know it's been said elsewhere before and I am certainly a convert, you might be better off buying a cheapish airbrush/compressor kit (circa £40-£50 on ebay) Using acrylic water based paint makes it relatively easy and inexpensive to mix colours to suit your purpose. I haven't had any colour run yet whether on plastic or wood.... I always use a rattle can primer (grey or red) first. Just be sure the compressor comes with a moisture trap. There are many sellers of better quality airbrushes kits for fingernails which give a very fine detailing (at less than £15 ebay) Lastly the paints come in small jars - again ebay art supplies are pretty reasonable. :thumbup:

Best of luck
Rob
 
Hi Rob - I have a compressor and an air brush but apart from spraying the Reliant Ant - any going mad with the nail gun - I've not used the airbrush really. I mixed my paint from red oxide, chrome yellow and green undercoat (needed a touch of blue by using the later colour). Flat paints brush on a lot better and cover so as well.

I just assumed (wrongly) that I could get a shade that would be suitable in a rattle can. The whole population of the counties Mayo, Roscommon and Sligo don't equal the size of a large town in England (or east coast side of Ireland) so it is difficult to obtain what I need when there is such a low population density to support anybody dealing in hobby materials.

I googled Humbrol stockists in Ireland (Republic and the North) and found I would have to make a minimum round trip of 180 miles or maybe even 400 to get what I wanted. So it comes from England. If I had anticipated the problem I would have purchased something with the boiler paints I ordered. Modern colours in household paints are no problem and I was just lucky to have something to hand. Anyway I'll post a pic later and have already working on a plan to embellish things without stepping into modern history:rolf::rolf::rolf:
 
So some pics of the new colour taken in brilliant sunshine 40 minutes ago. Not good pics as usual ..

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The lettering, for the Ox Mountain Rail Road, is just printed, cut out, and stuck on.
The colours are correct (but not the background!) as they just showed up white in the sun!

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I'm still tinkering away but it is getting rather cooler - have to keep coming in to get my fingers working (and a cuppa) - and have other things adding to my lists all the time.

Managed the glazing using CD box and plastic packaging. On the window to the "cab"" and the rear door, I've scuffed them up a little to make them slightly opaque (can't have people looking in at no interior fittings!) and one of the front windows achieved this all by itself when the glue ran!

I've done the roof - two sheets of card glued together - and added the strapping/beading, plus a couple of planks to walk on to reach the rear lantern (of which, I'm on with it at the moment) although neither are shown on the drawing but the lantern does feature in photos and you would think there would be something.

The overhanging (rear) portion of the roof has planking added as per last photo. The roof strapping I'm not happy with as I used superglue and things didn't line up as neat as I would have liked due to the almost instant "grab" of the glue but, for the moment, they will have to do,

On with handrails and such at the moment but here are some pics.

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That last picture is fantastic. For a moment I thought it was a prototype car. Hats off for providing planking detail under the overhanging roof!
 
Your too kind Giles - but thankyou! Its taking some time really and there's plenty that could be better - I'll blame my eyesight!
 
Well, having [strike]lost[/strike] misplaced the lense for the rear head lamp, I turned to finishing off the handrails for the rear of the car. Mostly made up from 1.5mm brass and soldered up. Drilling 1.0mm holes for fastenings tested my eyesight (even with specs!) but I managed in the end.

I fitted a knuckle coupler - used a Backmann stockcar to get the height and was dismayed to see the latters roof LOWER than the paycar's. I tried a JS car and, although the overall height of the coach was higher (with the clerestory), the floor height was lower.

I scaled the model from people's heights (in the photo) at 11ft to centre of roof and my model comes in at 150mm which equates to 1.22 scale. One pic I have seen shows an SP Boxcar and the height of that looks to be nearly 1ft taller than the paycar. Somethings odd. However, having got this far I suppose that's how it will stay.

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Cracking looking project Mick looks fantastic:thumbup:
 
[style="color: #008000;"]Mick.... You are doing brilliantly - I want to say, considering the limited photos, etc. but that would understate the quality of your work...... It's looking real [style="color: #008000;"]:admire:[style="color: #008000;"] what more can be said [style="color: #008000;"]:clap: :thumbup:

[style="color: #008000;"]Best wishes [style="background-color: #000000;"][style="color: #ffcc00;"]& five stars
[style="color: #008000;"]Rob
 
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