Roundhouse battery loco, pre-purchase questionnaire

Here is a stock image of how the bottom of loco looks like.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/trainsandstuff/4226327977/in/photostream/

I have taken out following screws.

4 at each corner which attached the steps.
2 which were fixed to fuel tanks (on sides)
1 which was on left hand side of loco to attach ash disposal (shown yellow in picture)
Took out the 2 hand rails on front/side

There are 2 screws just under (if upside down) the middle wheels (can't be seen at the picture).

I have not touched the 5 screws in the middle of the power block (as seen in the picture).


This is whole album of the loco

https://www.flickr.com/photos/trainsandstuff/albums/72157623108272576

This is not my loco but mine is similar to this (black body instead of red).
 
You might have to take the wheels out?

As you've surmised, you have to take the power block lower plate off by removing the 5 screws.

You should then be able to lift the wheel set out.

As long as you check the quartering (i.e. wheel/crank alignment) when you refit the wheels, you shouldn't have any problems....
 
Mobi,
Take the footsteps off and tgat Orange Hatything if it has a Screw, there is the possibility that they may still be holding things together. They also hide screws in all sorts of places.

Look at this LGB Breakdown to see if there is anything you may have missed in the Screw / Catch department.

http://lgb.vanelten.nl/Database/explosietekeningen/21620-1.pdf

There is rarely anything hidden in the Chassis Base Plate. The one bit that you have not yet undone.

JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Mobi,
Take the footsteps off and tgat Orange Hatything if it has a Screw, there is the possibility that they may still be holding things together. They also hide screws in all sorts of places.

Look at this LGB Breakdown to see if there is anything you may have missed in the Screw / Catch department.

http://lgb.vanelten.nl/Database/explosietekeningen/21620-1.pdf


JonD

That's a useful diagram JD? I couldn't find one on the Champen-Lindex website.

Looks like you need to identify and remove the 4 screws marked as L and M Mobi....
 
Gizzy said:
That's a useful diagram JD? I couldn't find one on the Champen-Lindex website.

For future reference here's a link to another source of diagrams. http://www.onlytrains.com/model/railroad/MAN.html
There is one on Champex-Linden's files but I had to use a search engine rather than their index to find it!
 
I have removed L screws but looks like M screws are the difficult ones :'( and can't be removed without taking the wheels out first.
 
Mobi said:
I have removed L screws but looks like M screws are the difficult ones :'( and can't be removed without taking the wheels out first.
I will have access to one of these tomorrow evening.. I will have a proper look for you..
 
Mobi,
If you need to take out the Wheels. Just remember tyat when you put them back you Must and I say Must get the 1/4 ing correct. Just 1 cog on the Gears makes the running Lumpy. To get it right use the Fly Cranks to ensure that all the Wheels are correctly in line with each other. Helps to have a good look for help before you take the Wheels out. There should be a small Mounded Line on the front of the Flycranks (part 70) to help. If you get in big trouble, well you know where I live.
JonD
 
Mobi said:
Should it be 1 Ampere fuse? Any link of such fuse? Can it be added to circuit without any soldering?

I use automotive blade fuses in my locos. I just crimped two insulated female blade connectors on the ends of the cables.

post-7312-14150819036665.jpg


(Not my pic)
 
Gizzy said:
That's a useful diagram JD? I couldn't find one on the Champen-Lindex website.
Yes it is another of those long lists of LGB Numbers with all the Breakdown Plans linked. Looks pretty comprehensive to me.
JonD
 
Don't dismantle the gearbox or take the wheels out - the loco definitely comes apart without touching the gearbox!

I don't have mine to hand right now to identify where all the screws are, but they are around somewhere.... some may be under the cover plates at each end that retain the couplers.....

Jon.
 
I have performed the dreaded act.

I opened the bottom plate and removed the wheels.

Then I removed the screws and now the top body completely separated.

I struggled to put back the wheels - in fact I think their alignment is still not correct :(

I failed to remove the pickup skates. I have put all components back again. Tomorrow morning I need to check if it still works using track power. I tested via battery feed thru rear socket and wheels rotate but I still don't know if I have damaged the loco. Feeding power to skates does turn the wheels but feeding power to wheels no longer working :(

Currently I left the top body as loose - simply slotted it on top of the chassis - it will come out if I pull the body upward.

Here are pictures of bottom before I performed my surgery and a picture of electonics board where all wires are connected.

From DCC board, 4 wires are soldered to motor block. These are all black!


images hosting

 
I realised a little late that the loco I have here is a different model..
However, I do not think you should have had to open the motor-block to part the upper body from the running board..??
You may have had to remove the screws securing the motor-block to the loco though.

The grey section with the wires soldered to it can be pulled off the motor-block, and you can then place individual wires onto the pins ofr the motor connections. - I have lots here, with correct connectors, if you would like some? PM me an address..
PhilP.
 
After taking out the screws which was obscured by the wheels, I think there was no other way to take those screws down. :-

Anway, the loco is no longer working on track power. :( I think during my re-assembly something was messed up and it is no longer picking up power via wheels.

Feeding battery power via rear socket works fine and I tested it on track. There does not seem to be any wheel alignment issue either.

Not too upset as the loco is no longer operatable via track power as my aim is to get it battery powered. But I am frustrated that I still not managed to remove the skates!
 
I have now completely removed all track pickup components including the skates!

Currently just 2 outer pins are coming out of the motor block (I removed inner pins). If I plug the DCC connectors out, the motor is completely isolated.

I have tested again with power via rear socket and loco runs fine on outdoor tracks 8)

Now I have to research on actual RC conversion. :)

PS: I stripped the entire loco. Even examined the actual motor in my hand. Feeling good now. :D
 
It's good to hear that you have managed to sort it out. Keep us posted about the R/C (it's a learning curve for me!).
 
While I am reasearching on RC option, my loco is now usable unless I feed it battery.

Here is a very crude way of feeding it battery power. At present, all I can do is to connect the cables via crocodile clips and put the objects in a open wagon.

Assuming I shall be happy with manual control right now, is there any proper connector I could use like tamiya/JST/molex so that I can get rid of the crocodile clips?

I tried with terminal blocks but wires often coming out that. I am looking for options where I can simply plug the power source to rear socket of loco.

2sa05co.jpg
 
Try your local Maplins or a model shop that does Radio Control for a plug to fit the socket....
 
Reviewing some RC options, it appears that Deltang is a cheap and easy option.

http://www.deltang.co.uk/trains.htm

I am thinking of going with Rx65 receiver and TX20 controller.

While the circuit diagrams are easier to understand, I am struggling with connections. Is soldering mandatory in this case or I could avoid it by choosing components with correct plug-n-play interfaces?

http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx65b.htm

This one comes with JST connectors. Is it a safer bet?

How do I get battery pack with JST connector?

I have seen a battery pack in strikalite.co.uk which comes with tamiya lead!

How do I connect wires coming out of RC transmitter to LGB motor block? Is there any plug which I can simply put on top of 2 outer pins or again soldering is only option?

For the battery, I prefer to use AA NiMH than sealed battery pack as the later will require charging circuit within loco!

Deltang handles upto 16 V so I need at least 12 V (i.e. 8xAA NiMH batteries).
 
Mobi said:
Reviewing some RC options, it appears that Deltang is a cheap and easy option.

http://www.deltang.co.uk/trains.htm

I am thinking of going with Rx65 receiver and TX20 controller.

While the circuit diagrams are easier to understand, I am struggling with connections. Is soldering mandatory in this case or I could avoid it by choosing components with correct plug-n-play interfaces?

http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx65b.htm

This one comes with JST connectors. Is it a safer bet?

How do I get battery pack with JST connector?

I have seen a battery pack in strikalite.co.uk which comes with tamiya lead!

How do I connect wires coming out of RC transmitter to LGB motor block? Is there any plug which I can simply put on top of 2 outer pins or again soldering is only option?

For the battery, I prefer to use AA NiMH than sealed battery pack as the later will require charging circuit within loco!

Deltang handles upto 16 V so I need at least 12 V (i.e. 8xAA NiMH batteries).

There are quite a few Deltang users on here so I think you'll find the answers you need.

Are you intending to Battery r/c just the one loco?

If you intend to purchase and/or r/c additional locos then you may want to consider the TX22 controller. Permits you to pair 12 receivers/loco's on separate channels, so essentially they can all be controlled from the one Tx22 handset.

To go with this you would need the Rx65-22 variant of the Rx65B receiver (the receivers have additional codes that designate whether they work with the TX20 or 22 handsets, and whether they have the wiring/connectors installed. For example Rx65-22-W (the variant that most of us use), is the Rx65 receiver that works with the Tx22 Transmitter and has wires attached for the battery and motor - hence Rx55-22-W)

Now that I've probably confused the hell out of you, if you only intend to run one battery r/c loco from one handset then your suggested selection should be fine.

Tx20 handset/transmitter with an RX65-2 receiver/ESC. If soldering is a concern, I would go for the Rx65-2-S (the "S" variant has a terminal block fitted for connection of the motor and battery wires).
 
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