The EJ&KLR: Austrian narrow gauge in Cheshire

Re:The EJ&KLR project

It was quite WINDY!!!
Notice the first of the pair of derailments purely by gusty wind!

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Re:The EJ&KLR project

Fantastic set of photos James, it's hard to believe that your line was just an idea twelve months ago. Everything has blended nicely, especially the small scenic details. Add to that the way you have repainted stock to create your own 'look' has created a very realistic railway that is modest in size and has a simple track plan. It's an impressive achievement.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Thanks chaps, yes it was a lot of fun and yes, I'm really pleased how the subtle detailing, repaints and relettering have transformed the off the shelf LGB stuff into a coherent austere picture of post war European narrow gauge.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Great pictures, James, particularly the ones shot from a low angle against a natural background. The first one on page 12 is particularly good. The railway's looking great.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Good stuff James. It's interesting how your line barely has any straights, not like your run of the mill G scale layout, more 16mm scale and it's all the better for it.
Are you tempted by live steam? Some of the Regner stuff would fit in with your theme.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

James, thanks and interesting, I don't think of the differences between 16mm and LGB but I suppose the set track approach of LGB traditionally leads to quite defined layouts. I didn't want that after seeing JRtawa's line. Both scales have their whimsy and unscale approaches. I just brought my 4mm experiences to bear on the larger scale rolling stock and have really enjoyed the freedom of creating a freelance but inspired by piece of railway.

As for live steam, not my cup of tea, i don't think i have the patience. As it is I can set up the electric locos and sit back and get lost watching them. I might do a battery conversion on one of them one day for winter days when I can't be fussed cleaning the track, but at the moment it only takes 20 mins to get things ready, then I can run any train I like. With a small line track power is not a big chore and dead simple :)
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

:thumbup::bigsmile:
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Great pix James!

I see you have used the Peco buffer stop on the siding.
Has it fared well outdoors?

I've only used these for Hardyard, my indoor layout, partially to save space....
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Shawn, Ian and Alan - thanks :D

Gizzy - no problems with the buffer stop outdoors - but it's been less than a year. It's glued together with Liquid Poly cement.


Last night, after the visual success of painting the wheel edges red on the Rugens I did the same to the U-class...
If you thought the Rugens was a transformation wait until you see this...

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All signs of 'toy' gone... Black light surrounds, black buffers, black blower, red wheels and red hand wheel on smokebox door.

Transformed :)
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

Hi James

Great pictures, there's a great theme running through your railway :)

About the piko buffer stop, how did you get it to sit on the rail? I bought one a year ago and I still can't figure it out. :thinking:
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

musket the dog said:
Hi James

Great pictures, there's a great theme running through your railway :)

About the piko buffer stop, how did you get it to sit on the rail? I bought one a year ago and I still can't figure it out. :thinking:
I had to cut some of the bottom plastic off the ones I installed on Hardyard Ricky?

From memory, I cut off the plastic of the longer leg, so it was the same length as the shorter one. I also remember that the buffer beam was higher than the buffer of LGB stock, so I might have cut some more of the plastic to lower the height of the assembled buffer stop.

The picture here may help explain....

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Re:The EJ&KLR project

I can't remember how I did the Peco buffers, I think as Gizzy says I cut off the bottom of the longer one and then just forced them over the LGB profile track which is taller than Peco's own G45.
 
Re:The EJ&KLR project

I found it difficult to glue the beam to the uprights successfully. In the end I drilled and countersunk two holes in the timber beam so that a small bolt would pass through the gap between the two plastic rails making up each upright. I then drilled a hole in a square of styrene, and used this as a washer to hold the nut in place. This way it doesn't matter what height you need to set the buffer beam.
 
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