What happened at your workbench today?

And they were some great years. I had just returned from Vietnam, got a job, bought a car and got back into the dating world. Oh, and now I was old enough to drink, legally.....:clap:
 
Thanks to the generosity of a fellow G scaler, I have this to add to my workbench.
He has a bigger one now!

malcolm
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I thought it was me causing the forum trouble yesterday, by posting a picture of full frontal vice!

I seem to have got away with it.

Malcolm
 
It took me a while to find one that would open wide enough, but still be able to use soft-grip jaws:
IMG_20230619_143126.jpg
PhilP
 
On and off bodging a replacement signal today for the exit from the bay platform at Montsiá, The 2-aspect one was just too chunky to sit between the tracks without fouling taller stock and so I have made a slightly slimmer single aspect replacement - fingers crossed for testing tomorrow, to see if it still gets clonked by certain coaches. The old one will be recycled elsewhere, once I have attended to the delamination of the ply signal head, an issue which has occurred with several of them and illustrates why it wasn't the best choice of materials.
signal_s06_replacement.jpg

Tight, still, but it seems to be OK:
signalS06_replacement..jpg
 
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I know it’s not quite a workbench!

But handy as I need to work on both top and bottom. All made from leftovers from other projects, apart from a pair of locating dowels to align this board (# zero ) with its adjacent board ( # one ).
The locking clips were to hand. The surface for the track are offcuts of MDf from a diy store, the black plastic pipes are from broken garden solar lights, and the bridge sides from ply.

Bus wiring is installed using scrap pc 13A IEC leads, and surplus XOR connectors from a now scrapped outside broadcast vehicle.

Malcolm

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I seem to 'not be getting on with' lead-free solder, at the moment..

I am thinking it might be down to the higher ambient temperature in the conservatory?

Now, do I reduce the temperature of the 'iron, or increase it (which would maintain the difference between ambient and working-temperature of the iron)?

Unfortunately, the solder came from Maplins, so I do not have access to any specifications, or suggest temperatures.

PhilP
 
I seem to 'not be getting on with' lead-free solder, at the moment..

I am thinking it might be down to the higher ambient temperature in the conservatory?

Now, do I reduce the temperature of the 'iron, or increase it (which would maintain the difference between ambient and working-temperature of the iron)?

Unfortunately, the solder came from Maplins, so I do not have access to any specifications, or suggest temperatures.

PhilP
Hm I wonder if RS may give you a clue, though likely different they will have gen sheets for lead-free solders I am sure.
 
I seem to 'not be getting on with' lead-free solder, at the moment..

I am thinking it might be down to the higher ambient temperature in the conservatory?

Now, do I reduce the temperature of the 'iron, or increase it (which would maintain the difference between ambient and working-temperature of the iron)?

Unfortunately, the solder came from Maplins, so I do not have access to any specifications, or suggest temperatures.

PhilP
Good old try and see probably
 
I seem to 'not be getting on with' lead-free solder, at the moment..

I am thinking it might be down to the higher ambient temperature in the conservatory?

Now, do I reduce the temperature of the 'iron, or increase it (which would maintain the difference between ambient and working-temperature of the iron)?

Unfortunately, the solder came from Maplins, so I do not have access to any specifications, or suggest temperatures.

PhilP
Lead free solder is generally a higher melt point, and assuming it is pre-fluxed as it uses a different flux. Also the MOD did some testing about compatibility with leaded solder, so if you are using pre-tined components then bi-metal corrosion and adhesion can occur (can't reveal my source or I would have to kill you ;))
 
on this pic i noted something never seen before.
the coupling. seems to shorten the gaps between wagons.
looks like they could be shortened LGB couplers.
do you happen to have a pic or two from the underside?

thanks, korm
Just a photographic illusion, I suspect, perhaps because the old US-style freight car has no central buffer? These are the two I used to test clearance - an ancient LGB 4 wheel coach and Bachmann cattle car, fitted with hook and eye coupler:
couplings.jpg
 
Woodwork completed.....I hope.
Embankment sides ( from wooden flooring underlay ) added, and all major gaps plugged with wooden strip.
The embankment will be clad with paper mache, the ‘quay’ section will have stone cladding. Then add some fake water.

Malcolm

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When I was on the job, we used the expression, "Get the lead out", referencing a slow worker. However, I want to keep the lead in my solder. Keeping the world safe from hazardous materials is paramount. But doing it in a way which is nonsensical only makes life more difficult.
 
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