A bit filed off is whatkorm kormsen is trying to achieve I think, I think this may be the way to go.
Looks good Alan, who hasn't knocked a hole in a wall/ ceiling or whatever and hit a support timberI finally took my coal sales office and platform out and positioned it on the railway, the last photo is where I was putting a hole through the deck to recess
a potted tree... remember to check for timber supports first
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Yeah I know, but there are 3 you can see, and 1 to the left of the holeLooks good Alan, who hasn't knocked a hole in a wall/ ceiling or whatever and hit a support timber
Or tried to find a batten and missed, which is more common with plasterboard housesLooks good Alan, who hasn't knocked a hole in a wall/ ceiling or whatever and hit a support timber
It is my Wife's maiden name, her Fathers Family came out from Yorkshire, and her Grandfather was a coal miner there in Rotherham, I think, but will check."Ashwood's Coal" ??
These are a rather nice loco, I have replaced the PM power unit with USA bogies on mine with Fosworks RC and a MLS Sound unit. They are suitably Swiss in looks so should fit in nicely with your line. I would certainly consider an upgrade in time with possibly decent Pantographs. Piko or LGB types should be fine. A respray will also lift it a lot, loosing the PM stuff before a respray if you do one.I have finally got back to my workbench today. Seeing I nearly have some track down , I figured it was about time I have a loco to run. I bought this 4010 off ebay at christmas no battery pack or controller , ad said it was new out of a pack that was broken up for resale. It did look in new condition but is missing one traction tyre off the non powered bogie.
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It was a nice little job opening it up and stripping out the playmobil R/C bits. I had bought a micron controller and a few MR603c receivers' over a year ago, but never used them. I wasn't sure if the micron R/C would work as it said a min 5v was needed, but figured it would not hurt to try 4x AA holder with nimh batteries as I had these already. Fully charged it was reading 5.6v. I did order a 6 x AA holder just in case.
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I fitted 2x 4AA 2450mah packs in parallel. There is a lot of room inside the loco. I drilled through the centre roof support and then cut out the rest with the dremel disc' either side of the mounting hole. 3A poly switch in front of battery connectors. On/charge switch and charge socket through to bottom where there is a gap between boogies. I added some weight to the drive boogie where the old batteries should go. I might connect the leds later or swap them for white/red ones.
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It worked, but that wheel with no tyre jumps around a lot. Once I have a loop done I will see how well it lasts , the min 5v supply needed could be a problem when the batteries are getting a bit flat. If so I will plug the 6 xAA pack for 7.2v instead or connect the 2x 4 packs in series for 9.6v. Wonder how the 4.8v motor might like that. The old R/C gear is next to a micron receiver, bit of a difference in size.
I now have a loco to test my track (play with) as I get it installed.
Yeah it is a nice little loco for the price, there are a lot of possibilities for upgrading it later on. In the mean time it gives me something to experiment with batteries and R/C.
Thanks , I will not series the 2 x 4AA packs then. Just use the 6AA pack and insulate the spare battery connector. Definitely the 601 would work much better for this, but I had the 603c already .Don't go above 7.2V,and don't run 'flat out' with any great load. - The drive train is pretty solid, but not bomb-proof.
So watch the overall weight you achieve.
If you can't get a Playmobil traction tyre, then one for a Stainz, will fit.
You might want to consider the newer Micron MR601a receiver/controller?
You do realise, once you have something to play with, the work-rate will drop markedly?
PhilP.
I am pondering tumblehome for my G3 Stephens type Railcar, current thoughts (as I am using plastic coated Foamboard is to use my metal benders then heat up the Foamboard gently to bend along a defined line for the 2 ends and 4 sides. A similar solution with 2 metal bits at the bottom end of the flat but if there is one may help you?
I'm considerably less jealous now that I see that it's an aluminium-sided one! The plywood ones were a beautiful build, but word on the streets is that the ally ones (with etched brass frets?) are a bit more challenging. That said, a DJB is a DJB...
Remember the contour models we made in Geography, with a new layer for each contour line? DJB (see above) did a similar thing to achieve the tumblehome on their plywood coaches, ie stepped layers under the final skin. It worked perfectly.
