Thanks to all for all your feedback.
Is the rail section a tight-ish fit without it. - If not, I fear either metal to goop, or wood to goop, may fail out in the garden?
Not sure about the large perpendicular slots where the rail crosses the tie at an angle. - I know why you have done it this way, but question if it will last?
The "goop" i am using is "polimax high tack", (not the cheapest stuff, at work sometimes a tube "disappear")a putty that will stiffen up and not rot, probably the wood (for sure) and the alu is sooner gone than the putty.
The wood for now is oak, i got fir enough for firewood, but must do a lot of work with it to get some sleepers/ties out of it.
Trunks of 50 cm in diameter.
Yes well: those slots i must spend some more time on drawing the track on the tie/sleeper and must put the chop saw in the right angle....lazy i know.
Stil experimenting btw.
Planning to by a precision saw and make a mold for the ties/sleepers so i can route them out very precise.
I read some posts on this and some other forums, it seems that fir is ruling.
Someone here (gregh?) had them for 15 year in operation....Must read it again, he made some good tracks.
OK, you want some feedback..
BUT...... I have never made my own track!
No problem, i did not do it also, but a thought, even far away, could be a solution!
So what track and wheel standards are you following?
And out of curiosity, what is the frog number of these?
The parts of the rail hanging down below the top of the ties will give you hell with dirt and ballast.
Standardts? Still must dive into it, i thought it was pretty straightforward....like always....nope.
My frog number? i really want to tell you but i don't have a clue(yet)....all i know is the minimum radius i would like to have for the big locos is 3 meters and 3,20.
I would like to obtain a doubletrack thru the whole garden only for them, with some turn outs to smaller radius curves and thus railway sections: extra smaller locos and track.
This turnout has a radius of 3 meters, so there is a LOT more.
On the parts that would "give me hell" i thought i tackled it, leave some room. Ballast is out of the question btw, i like this view very much, probably i am going to put it on top of some ballast, just like Stavern, we will see.
For dirt build up, i have some ideas, i would like to hear yours.
Another possibility is to drill thru the end of sleeper and thru the rail and glue a panel pin in the hole to provide a mechanical fastening . On the 16mm web site there is a good video about making turnouts Also worth looking at TOYMAN Television he makes his own track and turnouts
Toy Man Television
I was looking into that, was looking good. i took some wire for use of springs(some special metal or something?), it worked great, but i would like to have it servo operated, my gw basic programming skills are not going to save me now
.
Toyman, great guy, quick respons, very good (building) vids!
That's a good start but now you need to refine it if you expect it to be trouble free.
Your point 'toes' seem to be also ground on the inside. Not so easily done only on one side with a file to get a long taper for them to sit flush against the stock rails. A milling set-up would be best.
Better for your point rails near the throw bar slide on top of a smooth surface rather than the wood ties alone. They also need to be attached to the throw bar so they won't pull up on mishaps.
Your 'closure rails' that lead to the frog are not lined up with the point of the frog. The geometry of the 'crossing' is a bit weird all round and probably the worse aspect here.
Your wing and guard/check rails gap should be made according to back to back wheel standards of some sort. NMRA comes to mind.
Your 'wing rails' adjacent to the frog need to flare out to 'catch' the wheels better like your gaurd/check rails do on the stock rails. (They perhaps could do with more of a bend too)
I am also concerned with the casual slots relying on the 'goop' to keep all true. This is where welding the rails together (not for track power) is probably best as wood and 'goop' will age and move making tolerances go out.
YO WOW....easy Fonzie...don't over estimated my technical english on this subject......
This is the main reason why i keep coming back on this subject, i would like it trouble free!
There is so much about this, so much.....I will do my best to answer you in the right way. Bare with me please.
I dont use a file i use a belt sander, our lathe i sold in 2017 when my old man traded this time for eternity....
I sand both sides of the alu strip to get a better fit, to get that "arrow", for the stock rails(+/- 10cm) and to start the turn off line(+/- 3 cm)
Throw bar i must look up, google does not translate properly.
Frog i will definitely improve! was made and printed from templot, to british railway standards/examples.
NMRA i will definitely dive into that.
Wing rails..check, got it.
Welding alu i tried....need to practice a lot more than i have time for it or want it....probably inevitable?
Rails are pretty sturdy when i try to bend/flex them?(in the putty)
Those "casual"slots was my laziness, i explained that a couple of sentences ago, if you have any thoughts on that please share.
Greg Elmassian
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I will take that dive on your website, any info is really appreciated, thanks.
Hmmmm also cigars eh....i like to make my own from my own grown havana and/or own grown monte calme(my all time favorite!)
Usually you have a good opinion, your homework is done usually very good.
Thanks for all the replays, got a lot of work to do to improve and learn, as you can see i am really doing something with your advice hints tips ect, it is really appreciated.
Btw al my measurement inside the rail are 44.9mm exactly, on the strait pieces, 45,1 on the curves, yes i can measure at 0.0005 inch, thanks to a other hobby!
One millimeter is big, many thanks for the imperial system.
Best Igor K
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