Eighton Bahn AKA testing testing RhB

[Nodrog1826]

.....and so it begins.....My initiation into the dark art of chip installation.....

This is the way I have done it, its not THE way but the way I have chosen...

Firstly, pester Mark at GRO, for some parts advice, and having noted his suggestions, change your mind as to where to put the speaker, and as he has only one of the Blue power buffers left place an order, then await delivery.



So having stripped the loco down, to see where everything is going to fit, you may as well take the rods off and renew the traction tyre.

So the let the trials begin...Decided to go with the Massoth method posted in the fitting guides...


Fit the various parts, by modifying the internal cab roof for the speaker, solder lights and smoke unit connections to the various CT cables, as well as the power buffer, insulate the weight then fit chip, using sticky velcro tape, so you can get at the chip should the need arise.



Check its all working, on a bench test, and then reassemble, only to discover two things, the power buffer will not fit in the boiler, where you have seen someone else fit it, and that the smoke unit has stopped working.

So do a partial strip down to gain access to the smoke unit connections, check whilst crossing fingers, that I ain`t blown the smoke unit, which is ok, one to put down to sods law, re assemble loco, do another bench test, congratulate yourself on a job well done, (Well no one else will.) and admire your handy work.



Just need to get a Driver to fit into the cab, to help disguise where I had to install the power buffer, and Robert is my dads brother...

 

[stockers]

Nice beer mat Gordon.

 

[Nodrog1826]

Beer mat aside, had an outdoor test today......


Plus the event was also recorded for posterity....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AL6VDcO5eA&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85MMLnetgSQ&feature=youtu.be

 

[Nodrog1826]

Better be quick, in order to scrape in with this three month update.....

Ok... Things to report...

Some minor purchases made...

Rolling Road

Aristo Fishplates and sets of additional screws, because, well why not?

Outside work



Have finally wired up the bridge, so that it isolates the track if removed, to prevent the drop of doom, only will work if loco is at the head of its train.

Have also made a jumper lead, to "bridge" the bridge gap as it were, to power the track either side.

Also had a go at seeing what the station layout will sort of look like, subject to a couple of tweeks.


The empty track box indicates where the line will branch off to the shed bridge.

So all in all its a three road station, with a branch (Shed Line) with a headshunt and a loco stabling point.

Smallest of the loops will hold a 13ft long train, headshunt is 8ft, and the stabling sidings, will be worked out later.

So all that will remain in the track department is 100ft of straight a 12.5ft dia circle and two R3 points, to use up.

 

[Steve]

Good work Gordon

 

[mike]

great to see the progress.. well done matey on the chip installation .. ???

 

[JRinTawa]

Good to see that things are still progressing all be it not doubt slower than you'd wish. But any step forward is a good step

 

[PhilP]

Why not move the isolating breaks further back from the bridge??
Say 12 - 16 feet? - That way you should avoid (many) 'tail-first' plummets as well.

 

[Nodrog1826]

On the station side of the bridge there is only a short, just under 3ft section of track prior to the running lines. Other end its 3 R3 curve sections away from the bridge. A sort of full speed test run with a loco only, stops in the distance. However it's only a precaution, as if the bridge is removed, it would need the jumper cable to power the track.

May also leave the point from the main line as a manual, as a sort of belt and braces..

 

[Nodrog1826]

Had another look at that station layout yesterday, by changing the points around, and some track tweeks, has resulted in a less deep layout,
which should make the stretch to the inner loop to sort out derailments easier.
On the downside makes the loops a little bit shorter, but will accommodate a six coach, crok hauled train.

 

[KandNWLR]

Blimey. That´s going to be some line, if you get planning permish.

 

[Nodrog1826]

I can neither confirm or deny if planning permission has been granted, cos I aint asked, if you don't ask you carn't be turned down[e]336[/e].

 

[mike]

that is the only correct asnwer

 

[Nodrog1826]

Dictatorships aside, well lets face it. there aint one here, so Swmbo says.

Last week saw a builders wagon drop some bits off for the railway, so over the last few days have put some of it to use.

The result is





Sand, cement light paving slabs, and a lot of ground consolidating.

 

[nicebutdim]

Wow! You have been busy. Looking good with plenty of 'playability'.

 

[muns]

Lookin good Gordon.

 

[mike]

way to go gorden!!! O0

 

[Nodrog1826]

It is said that "Pride comes befor a fall" and "Measure twice and cut once", not that this has anything to do with the next bit. :

Anyhow, yesterday in the cold light of day, had another look at the station layout, and then re-arranged it.




The off shot is :-

On the plus side.

It looks better with parallel tracks.
The bridge isolation/anti drop off the end section is a little longer.
The headshunt track/MPD point motors are not close/overhanging the edge.
Its saves 4 sections of curved track and a straight.

On the minus side.

May need to invest in some R1 points and curves for the MPD.
Looks as if four slabs will have to be lifted/re positioned.

There is a discussion on the latter going on, may just shift two and plonk (Carn`t say place, because it wont be that accurate.) a building on the other two.

 

[PhilP]

It does look better IMHO.. - Quick screw it down, before you have another idea!

Can you make the turn at the end with what you have? - Doesn't look like you have made the full right-angle in the picture..

 

[Nodrog1826]

Thinking of sticking it down, pointwork excepted. as for the angle, just need to remove the temporary buffer stop and stick another R3 ish curve on the end of that Piko curved point and it will be as nigh enough for pit work, as they say.